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    160 thermostat ?

    my father inlaw has a 1987 country squire with a 302. some times its runs a little rough and seems to be at just an idle or while driving at low speeds. i scanned his ecm and no error codes came back. also did the koer test and was fine. we live out here in the desert where in the summer the temp can reach 120 and it the winter well below freezing. so anyway he put a 160 or 180 thermostat in a few years ago so he can run his a/c in the summer with out the engine ping. is it possible that the engine is runing like this due to not running at operation temp. he says sometimes it feels like a miss and idle searching or a bucking. we did a full service to it about a month ago with no difference. if not then i should check all the vac lines like i did on my wifes cp.
    1984 mercury grand marquis ls rebuilt 306 flat top pistons with factory cfi and lincoln headers with single glasspack dual snorkle air cleaner. Gloss black paint with slick top coversion.
    1986 mercury grand marquis colony park 5.0 sefi dual exhuast thrush turbos with h pipe and turbines

    #2
    Originally posted by 84merc951 View Post
    my father inlaw has a 1987 country squire with a 302. some times its runs a little rough and seems to be at just an idle or while driving at low speeds. i scanned his ecm and no error codes came back. also did the koer test and was fine. we live out here in the desert where in the summer the temp can reach 120 and it the winter well below freezing. so anyway he put a 160 or 180 thermostat in a few years ago so he can run his a/c in the summer with out the engine ping. is it possible that the engine is runing like this due to not running at operation temp. he says sometimes it feels like a miss and idle searching or a bucking. we did a full service to it about a month ago with no difference. if not then i should check all the vac lines like i did on my wifes cp.
    It doesn't hurt to check vacuum lines. The car was designed to run at 190 degrees so it's actually running a lot richer than it needs to be. As for the engine ping, that could be fixed by retarding the ignition timing a tad.

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      #3
      I forget what the switchover temperature is, but if the engine is too cold, it doesn't enter closed loop mode. It really needs to be at least 180, and ideally 190-195. The engine makes the most power and has the least wear in that temperature range, and its where the ECM is expecting things to be. If you have overheating problems with a 195 thermostat, the only real fix is to find out why, not fit a colder thermostat. Usually its a shot clutch fan or a clogged radiator, though in a very high temperature area a bigger radiator might be your only real fix.

      I would start with vacuum lines just because they're all usually shot by this point in time though.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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        #4
        Got an ACDELCO (installed by previous owner) that is 195 degree thermostat in my 1995 GM. Seems to work well. I think the car spec calls for 190 but I guess 195 is ok???


        "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

        "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

        "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

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          #5
          I'd agree with Gadget that below 180 is pushing things.

          85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
          160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
          waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

          06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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            #6
            Seems to work well. I think the car spec calls for 190 but I guess 195 is ok???
            OEM is a nice even number; 193º.
            195 is the norm for replacements by the book.

            Alex.

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              #7
              My car is getting a 190 t-stat when I do a tune-up. I think mine pings a tiny bit, maybe lowering the temp 5 degrees will help, can't hurt.
              88 Town Car (wrecked, for sale)
              Walker OEM duals with muffler deletes

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                #8
                dont run any less than a 180 in a smallblock ford

                1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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