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Water pump replacement (if I have to)
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The iron ones if you look under like 1986 or 1988 on rockauto-- same engine, it all works.
ACTUALLY now that I remember-- the alternator bracket iirc runs into the larger iron pump. You need about 10 minutes on a bench grinder to remove the little bit of excess metal. So have one handy... or just get the regular aluminum one. I don't know that it makes much difference.
You can tell which ones need sealant-- just look. Part of the timing cover overhangs out from the main engine block, and obviously has no space for a water passage. The rest go into water passages. Or just put sealant on all of them-- no harm, right? But I'm not sure that I ever needed sealant on my bolts. It's not leaking... I felt more comfortable with antiseize on the threads for future work!
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water pump bolt kit from Late Model Resto... http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...mp-Studs-Bolts
these are ARP made bolts.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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I bought a set from Rock Auto for $12 when I did my car. Can't seem to find them anymore, though.**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
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Got the WP replaced last weekend. New update (GRR....dammit). It looks like the area between the WP plate and the water pump itself might be leaking. There are two ~5/8 bolts at the bottom that hold this on. I read where someone took this apart and even though you shouldn't have to - applied some Permatex sealant to both surfaces too. I remember doing this back twenty years ago on Dad's 83 CV. Didn't do it this time though...95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
90 Grand Marquis, stock
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I had to redo mine because of that gasket.
PeteOriginally posted by gadget73For other types of inquiry, more information is required. Please press 4 to speak to a representative who can help you with your question. This call may be monitored for quality assurance purposes.
2003 Grand Marquis Ultimate, the "Stealth Bomber": http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Grand-Marquis
1991 S-10, 'Bulldog', 2.5l 5 speed: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...375#post698375
1985 Town Car, 'Faded Glory', gone but not forgotten. 84/87/91/97 MGMs too.
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Originally posted by Piece-it pete View PostI had to redo mine because of that gasket.
Pete95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
90 Grand Marquis, stock
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yeah I had that gasket blow out and overheat the engine once. Cost me the TFI the next day.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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do folks here just disassemble, goop it up, then reassemble? I guess the WP itself is fine, though i could probably take it back to Advance and get a new clean one...95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
90 Grand Marquis, stock
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Originally posted by alchemist View Postdo folks here just disassemble, goop it up, then reassemble? I guess the WP itself is fine, though i could probably take it back to Advance and get a new clean one...
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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