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    #16
    I use mobil 1 high mileage 10w30 on my wagon and she loves it.

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      #17
      Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
      But 5 quarts is the correct amount.
      Assuming every drop is out of the engine when it's drained and zero sludge present, I agree.
      Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 335,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
      Winter vehicle-> 1995 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab 4x4, 284,xxx+km. AKA "Brutus" 460/E4OD/4.10 axles and 12 MPG. Bought 2019/08/14

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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        #18
        Originally posted by GM_Guy View Post
        You just might want to rethink that. Your valve stem seals where not damaged by too much oil. How would that happen anyway? Oil is in the oil pan, your valve stem seals are at the top. Oil gets pumped up there, and runs back down to the pan. It doesn't matter if there is 4 quarts in the pan, or if there is 7 quarts in the pan, the oil will get pumped up to the top and run back down to the pan at the same rate.

        Alex.
        Too much oil will create an increase in overall crankcase pressure, especially if the PCV system isn't working properly. What happens then? The weakest seal or gasket is going to give. Most of the oil leaks in these cars are caused by plugged or stuck PCV valves. And where is the most common leak areas? Valve cover/intake manifold gaskets. Example: my '96 F-150 winter beater was overfull by a half a quart when I bought it. Blue smoke and oil burn stink on startup. Drained the 1/2 quart off, no smoke or smell now. Overfilling anything isn't a good idea, I still prefer a little under to overfull. A good 302 won't die from being a 1/2 quart or even a quart low on oil. It works well for me. That being said, I usually keep a close eye on all fluids anyway and I never allow my 302 to go below needing a quart, ever.
        Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 335,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
        Winter vehicle-> 1995 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab 4x4, 284,xxx+km. AKA "Brutus" 460/E4OD/4.10 axles and 12 MPG. Bought 2019/08/14

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #19
          You are talking two different issues here.

          Valve stem seals (the original item in question) ain't going to leak from too much oil. period. The amount of oil pumped to the top of the head is going to be the same regardless of how much oil is in the crankcase.

          Your blue smoke issue is a result of excess oil getting thrown onto the cyclinder walls add in worn rings and that'll be more pronounced.
          Your excess pressure is NOT, you say yourself if it is a case of faulty PCV system. Which just comes back to, the oil amount is not the cause, but it does expose weak areas that need fixin'.

          Alex.

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            #20
            Oil pressure not affected by and extra quart or two. Excessive oil vaporization in the crankcase overwhelming the PCV system probable. Vaporized oil gets sucked through worn valve guides and seals. I had a 1999 Maxima with 3.0 with a stopped up PCV and it blacked the oil in 600 miles and was a quart low in 400 miles! Replace the PCV, no oil burning between 3K changes. Stuff is made to work in concert. When the horn section sucks, the whole orchestra suffers.

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              #21
              Put 7 quarts in a high mileage 302 in a box and see what happens. Good experiment there IMO.
              I'm not doing it with mine, don't want to screw it up lol!
              Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 335,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
              Winter vehicle-> 1995 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab 4x4, 284,xxx+km. AKA "Brutus" 460/E4OD/4.10 axles and 12 MPG. Bought 2019/08/14

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by nfldfordltd View Post
                Put 7 quarts in a high mileage 302 in a box and see what happens. Good experiment there IMO.
                I'm not doing it with mine, don't want to screw it up lol!
                i doubt it would do jack. these engines are unstoppable.
                Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

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                  #23
                  I remember selling some 4x4 F-150s in the late 80s that took 7 quarts (with filter). My 1988 demo was a 5.0 V8 F-150 XLT Reg Cab 4x2 with 5-speed manual. It was a 6-quart change w/filter. I purchased my demo in 1989 (also an F-150 4x2 XLT with a supercab, 5.8, and an automatic C6 tranny). This truck was also a 6-quart change. As I recall, the 5.0s had chrome plated rings and they took a while to "seat in". We had complaints about oil consumption with more than a few customers. According to a Ford rep, the 5.8 used moly rings. My 1988 5.0 pick-up truck used a quart of about every 1500 to 1800 miles (Ford said normal during break-in period). The 88 F150 also had a creaking aluminum drive shaft that got replaced under warranty but that's besides the point.
                  So this thread started by asking about the oil fill capacity etc. Fact is Ford has used numerous pan designs. Opinions are like butt-holes (and everyone has one). My posts on this thread are only my opinions and I'm not trying to convince anyone of anything. I'm just relating experiences I had and observed through first hand experience. 4.5 or 5.0 quarts ?? Don't think the car would car if its operated under the maximum rpm level it was designed for.

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                    #24
                    It will leak oil all over the place and it might smoke a bit more, but thats probably about it.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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                      #25
                      Side note of trivia:

                      Some engine builders of the past liked to overfill the engine on purpose for a slight amount of crank splash for first 20min. Claimed it helped with flat tappet cam break-in.
                      sigpic
                      89 LTC 429>557 Cobrajet stroker
                      13 F-150 XLT 6.2 l
                      "If I could separate what's real from what I've been dreaming I could live to fight another day"

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                        #26
                        Which it does becuase the cam is only splash lubricated. (Which is the reason you have to bring up the rpm's (2200-2500) immediately when starting up with a new flat tappet cam to have sufficient splash to the cam while breaking it in).

                        Alex.

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                          #27
                          Why is this even a discussion?
                          1. Buy 5 quart jug of oil at Walmart. Buy new filter
                          2. Drain BOTH oil plugs until they've pretty much stopped dripping. Remove old oil filter.
                          3. Fill your new oil filter about half-3/4 full with new oil from your jug. Any more and you'll spill oil out the top of the filter when you screw it on. Lube new oil filter o-ring with clean oil. Make sure old o-ring came off with old filter.
                          4. Screw new oil filter on.
                          5. Pour new oil onto valve cover. Stop. Swear. Go borrow wife's kitchen funnel. Pour remainder of new oil into engine. Wash funnel. Put back. Don't tell wife.
                          6. Start engine and run for a minute. Check for leaks. Shut engine off. Let engine sit long enough to drink a beer.
                          7. Pull dipstick. Wipe. Replace and pull again. Notice that your 5 quarts of oil is showing much higher than the crosshatched area on dipstick. Recall info from GMN about how Ford made a bunch of these dipsticks incorrectly. Swear at Ford. Make new mark with a hacksaw on dipstick indicating correct full mark.
                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                          91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                          93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                          Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                          Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                          95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

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                            #28
                            So Ford did mess up for this era dipstick?
                            Last edited by extortion00; 12-10-2013, 08:39 PM.

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                              #29
                              Yes, 1988 was a bad year for the 5.0 in an F150! We had a rash of dipstick issues and oil consumption complaints. Stands to reason that they could have messed up the CV and GM sticks too.

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                                #30
                                I know my 91's dipstick shows full around 3.5 quarts.
                                Originally posted by gadget73
                                There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                                91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                                93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                                Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                                Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                                95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

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