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    #16
    Well I went to Canadian Tire and picked up a starter solenoid thinger for $13.

    Someone who was listening while I tried to turn it pointed and said "that thing clicked!", where "that thing" was the starter solenoid thinger.

    It has a billion things connected to it and it looks scary.

    I'll try cleaning the battery terminals and see if that helps, once I procure a wire brush...

    Comment


      #17
      +1 on cleaning up the terminals. Still could be a bum battery too, but cheapest things first. If the terminals are damaged, buy new ones like Pete pictured in his post above. Check and make sure the cables aren't damaged or corroded as well.
      Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 335,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
      Winter vehicle-> 1995 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab 4x4, 284,xxx+km. AKA "Brutus" 460/E4OD/4.10 axles and 12 MPG. Bought 2019/08/14

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #18
        Well, lo and behold.

        I disconnected the negative connector from the battery and...it friggin' fell off the wire into the snow.

        I removed it from the wire, stripped a 1/2 inch more, resecured it, reattached it to the battery.

        I turned the key...VROOOM!


        Car claims it has no recollection of last night.


        Anyways, I'mma smack the dude who put the connectors on a month or so ago.

        Comment


          #19
          Awesome! Glad to hear at least this problem is taken care of!


          '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RI)

          Comment


            #20
            Most excellent.



            It's never a bad idea to go through all of the battery cables and terminal connections on an old rig like this. They get brittle and rusty/green and shitty. Some might be near death or just need cleaning - Clean up all of your grounds while you're at it.
            sigpic


            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

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              #21
              Excellent news indeed. A big victory as you now have a running car.

              Now do as mentioned, check your other connections including the other battery cable and clean them. And return the relay to Canadian Tire and get your $13 back....gotta make every dollar count!

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by Louis View Post
                Excellent news indeed. A big victory as you now have a running car.

                Now do as mentioned, check your other connections including the other battery cable and clean them. And return the relay to Canadian Tire and get your $13 back....gotta make every dollar count!
                Let's not get crazy here. It's a Ford. It will need a fender solenoid at some point or another. They all will.


                I keep spares.
                sigpic


                - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                  Let's not get crazy here. It's a Ford. It will need a fender solenoid at some point or another. They all will.


                  I keep spares.
                  +1 on that!! I keep more than one in my trunk. Never know when a "new part" is defective!!


                  "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

                  "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

                  "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

                  Comment


                    #24
                    I've had to tighten the terminals on my battery cables (the ones that have repair terminals) a half dozen times before they really and truly seated good for the long haul. that may be your issue. The copper wire is very malleable and tends to conform to what's pressing against it and will loosen up if not totally packed together. I tend to go easy as the bolts that hold down the top plate tend to not be all that great... so until about 6 months pass and I've got them good and tight... I end up dealing with this issue if I strip new wire instead of just clamping the crap out of the currently exposed.

                    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                    Originally posted by dmccaig
                    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      The fender relays start going bad a lot when the starter is bad and drawing too much current. With a later style starter, that relay passes almost no current so it seldom actually dies. the older type starters ran full current through the relay, so when they started to go bad and pull more current, it melts the contacts. Real fun when they weld together and the car won't stop cranking.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                      Comment


                        #26
                        That happened in the 5.0L Grand Marquis I had. I replaced the solenoid myself, and my AMP light wouldn't go out.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          yay

                          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                          Comment


                            #28
                            It happened again this morning. The hell gives?

                            I turned the plate that clamps down on the wire upside down at the advice of my mechanic.

                            I also replaced the passenger side lowbeam headlight because it was giving me attitude.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              If the same wire is loose, see Sly's post. Also particularly since you exposed fresh copper wire I would not flip the wire clamp. It is formed to hold the wire, right side up.

                              start with the basics, are all bat wires and clamps clean and tight/snug. (no wiggle without moderate force)
                              03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                              02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                              08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                              12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Well I had already flipped the wire clamp and it seems to be holding for now.

                                If it fails again I will just have to replace the friggin' terminals again.

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