First, get new battery cables. I had this problem numerous times. I can pretty much promise you that your original ones are shot. Mine looked fine at the ends but when I cut them open in the middle they were full of green corrosion. Get some marine style terminals to put on your battery and crimp some good chopper lugs on the ends of the new cables. You can crimp them by using the pointed end of a lag bolt and a hammer to pound a dent into the lug. Make sure they are really crimped in there good.
These are the terminals I'm talking about http://www.explosivepowersports.com/...Fa5DMgodKzAAvg
The automotive style ones where you strip back the insulation and crank the cable down with the two nuts and the little strap are junk.
Seal where the lug is crimped to the battery cable with several wraps of electrical tape or some heat shrink tube. Our if you're like me, both. Don't want corrosion climbing down the new cable.
Use a wire brush/wheel to clean the attachment point for the engine block ground before attaching the new negative cable.
Further improvements to your starting system can be made with a 90-91 style starter with attached solenoid. Most of the stuff that you see attached to the solenoid on your fender is simply using the positive side solenoid stud as a convenient spot for power distribution.
1. Run a 6 or 4ga cable to positive side of fender solenoid to power the vehicles' electrics. Hook all the other stuff that was there back up and tighten the nut.
2. Remove the existing cable from the starter post of the fender solenoid that runs down to the starter. Replace it with a 14ga wire that goes from the starter side of the fender solenoid to the blade terminal on the solenoid of the new starter. Attach with a standard crimp terminal.
3. Run a MINIMUM 4ga cable from the positive battery post to the new starter's cable terminal. Use a copper lug like you did on the battery side and secure it with the nut.
You don't have to play with the small activation wire on the fender solenoid. It doesn't move.
Spray paint battery terminals to help prevent corrosion.
Enjoy faster starts and never having to replace the fender solenoid again!
All of the above assumes you have a good battery. Have it load tested.
These are the terminals I'm talking about http://www.explosivepowersports.com/...Fa5DMgodKzAAvg
The automotive style ones where you strip back the insulation and crank the cable down with the two nuts and the little strap are junk.
Seal where the lug is crimped to the battery cable with several wraps of electrical tape or some heat shrink tube. Our if you're like me, both. Don't want corrosion climbing down the new cable.
Use a wire brush/wheel to clean the attachment point for the engine block ground before attaching the new negative cable.
Further improvements to your starting system can be made with a 90-91 style starter with attached solenoid. Most of the stuff that you see attached to the solenoid on your fender is simply using the positive side solenoid stud as a convenient spot for power distribution.
1. Run a 6 or 4ga cable to positive side of fender solenoid to power the vehicles' electrics. Hook all the other stuff that was there back up and tighten the nut.
2. Remove the existing cable from the starter post of the fender solenoid that runs down to the starter. Replace it with a 14ga wire that goes from the starter side of the fender solenoid to the blade terminal on the solenoid of the new starter. Attach with a standard crimp terminal.
3. Run a MINIMUM 4ga cable from the positive battery post to the new starter's cable terminal. Use a copper lug like you did on the battery side and secure it with the nut.
You don't have to play with the small activation wire on the fender solenoid. It doesn't move.
Spray paint battery terminals to help prevent corrosion.
Enjoy faster starts and never having to replace the fender solenoid again!
All of the above assumes you have a good battery. Have it load tested.
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