I found this interesting. Not sure if I believe it thou.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
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http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
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I always thought Bob was your uncle. Now you tell me he's both? Surely this cannot be!
I won't say he's off base with this. My own anecdotal evidence agrees. My truck has lifter noise in the winter. It always has. The factory oil is 5w30. If it has 10w30 in it, it ticks and rattles worse and for longer. It currently runs 0w30, and its the best its ever been. There has been no change in oil pressure when it's fully warmed up, indicating the oil at that temperature is not appreciably thinner than the stock 5w30 or the incorrect 10w30. I've run 5w30 in the Towncar without noticing anything particularly different with how it works, but thats a reasonably low mileage engine. That whole high mileage synthetic no-no nonsense I don't buy at all. I switched the truck around 150k with no problems, and the Mark VII was switched at 180k. I changed the original slightly weepy valve cover gaskets on the Mark at 225k, and Ivan did the intake gasket at over 240k. The truck has never had a single gasket changed, and I have never put oil in it between changes.
One thing he does say is this, and I absolutely agree with it:
I've always though this was stupid.People sometimes use a thicker oil to minimize gasket leaks. This seems obvious to me. Repair the gasket. Do not destroy your engine with an oil that is too thick for proper function.Last edited by gadget73; 03-22-2014, 01:48 PM.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works -
My 85 Town Car has about 76k on it and was thinking of going to 0/30 or 5/30 after reading this. Don't want to hurt the engine thou. I want to see 300k one day too.
Sent from my VS980 4G using TapatalkLast edited by kodiak; 03-22-2014, 02:33 PM.Using TapatalkComment
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Hmmm.. Interesting
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That is a good article and test. I guess my opinions of which oil to use is just like me, OLD. Fortunately, old dogs can learn new tricks.
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I dumped some 5W-30 in the box for winter storage. I noticed it starts quieter with that versus 10W-30. Wonder if it would hurt it to run it all the time. Seems like it would be better. Quiet starts mean it's getting lubed faster. Right?1990 MGM: $50 E7 heads, HO cam, Holley SysteMAX lower intake, HO upper intake with an Explorer TB. LSC ECM. Lincoln logs into stock dual exhaust. K&N drop in air filter. Wide ratio AOD, 2400 converter with a 3.08 one tire fire out back. Car is less slow now. Then there's the '92 Beater. Dual 2.25" exhaust with shiny tips. Rumbles nice. Super slow. Burns oil too.Comment
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Battle wagon get's 5w-30 semi synthetic in the winter because it's free from work. Seems quieter and happier to start. It's due for an oil change and this time it's going back to Rotella-T 15w-40. That engine is way past it's prime.
The Tudor get's generic conventional 10w-30. I don't think it needs anything better for it's CFI flat tappet wonder.
The HPP Box get's fully synthetic 10w-30.2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIPComment
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I think I might try it. See where the oil pressure runs. It holds 60 psi at start, then sits at about 25 at hot idle at a light. No lopo knock or anything.1990 MGM: $50 E7 heads, HO cam, Holley SysteMAX lower intake, HO upper intake with an Explorer TB. LSC ECM. Lincoln logs into stock dual exhaust. K&N drop in air filter. Wide ratio AOD, 2400 converter with a 3.08 one tire fire out back. Car is less slow now. Then there's the '92 Beater. Dual 2.25" exhaust with shiny tips. Rumbles nice. Super slow. Burns oil too.Comment
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Originally posted by HiFiMerc View Post
I'd be happy with 2.5 at hot idle at a light.2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIPComment
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just remove the gauge. As long as there is enough to keep the light off, its enough. If there isn't, unhook that too.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it worksComment
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Bob recommends 10 psi per 1000 rpms and not to worry about idle oil pressure. I think I'm gonna try 0/30 next oil change.
" Increasing the pressure while using the same oil will increase the oil flow but increasing the pressure by increasing the oil thickness will result in less flow. It takes more pressure to move a thicker oil. When you go to a thicker oil the pressure goes up because of the increased resistance, and therefore reduction of flow. Because the pressure is higher sooner, the relief valve cuts in sooner."
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using TapatalkLast edited by kodiak; 03-22-2014, 06:48 PM.Using TapatalkComment
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That makes sense.. Although I do use 10w 40
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haha!Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
Yeah, just unhook everything related to oil pressure and wait for the rods to exit the crankcase one day out of the blue
1990 MGM: $50 E7 heads, HO cam, Holley SysteMAX lower intake, HO upper intake with an Explorer TB. LSC ECM. Lincoln logs into stock dual exhaust. K&N drop in air filter. Wide ratio AOD, 2400 converter with a 3.08 one tire fire out back. Car is less slow now. Then there's the '92 Beater. Dual 2.25" exhaust with shiny tips. Rumbles nice. Super slow. Burns oil too.Comment
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Originally posted by kodiak View Post
I doubt he recommends 5psi @ 70 mph.2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIPComment
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Not sure what hat you pulled that out of.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-105/
" These same rules apply to engines of any age, loose or tight. Just because your engine is old does not mean it needs a thicker oil. It will need a thicker oil only if it is overly worn, whether new or old. Yet the same principals of 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM still apply. In all cases you need to try different grade oils and see what happens. Then choose the correct viscosity."
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using TapatalkLast edited by kodiak; 03-22-2014, 09:02 PM.Using TapatalkComment
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