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Well looks like I didn't break down this scottfest, or any of 750 mile trip I took. However the symptom occurred once again when I got home. What the hell...
Here is what all has been replaced:
Ignition switch
Ignition Module
Coil
Rotor
Dizzy pickup and reluctor wheel ( a couple years ago)
Am I missing something here?? Perhaps a wire is internally giving me trouble??
-Phil
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+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.
Tested the ICM ground, between the engine and the connector it had a resistance of about 7 ohms. I let it heat up a little bit, measured again, it had jumped to around 11. Manual says it shouldn't have any. I created a redundant ground. I learned that my engine to body to battery grounding is not the best, and has a bit of resistance, around 1-2 ohms depending on the location. It was a problem, IDK if it was THE problem though...
-Phil
sigpic
+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.
basically you're gonna have to catch it when its not working and find out what the issue is. Might be a flaky connection somewhere between the ignition switch and the coil or duraspark box thats causing a loss of +12v. Don't these have a resistor wire somewhere in the mix too? If thats constructed how I expect it is, it probably relies on mechanical crimp connections since Nichrome wire (the resistance wire) doesn't solder. If the mechanical connection is loose or corroded it might flake out randomly.
If its not loss of spark, maybe check fuel pressure. Could also be loading up a bit. I noticed it sounds like it idles kind of fat. That typically will light off with a bit of throttle applied. Overheating *might* make it vaporlock too. Get on that fan clutch
You guys are probably tired of seeing this thread pop up..
Tested all the wires under the hood tonight related to the ignition, including grounds. Most has 0.3 to 0.5 ohms of resistance- higher than it's supposed to be, but not high enough to worry about for old wires.
The resistance wire from start to end was 2.3 ohms. the spec of the resistor is 1.1 ohms. This is a bit high, HOWEVER I don't think this is the problem as it is bypassed during cranking-if it were the problem it would start when cranking and die when i switched the key to run.
I plan on testing them again when it's hot under the hood.
It's so hard to test it, since it's so sporadic-would be easier if it was consistent. Broke down at an intersection in Camden this time...every time as soon as the coolant temp goes to 190, BOOM, it will start back up. I was attempting to check the spark again this time-but wasn't fast enough- had a bunch of people asking me if i was OK lol... I hate the waiting game
Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 09-12-2014, 09:48 PM.
-Phil
sigpic
+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.
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