Today at school i pulled out the engine and trans. I am swapin the heads with HO heads im getting for 40 bucks and i'll do a valve job port and polish ect... I also plan to replace the rear main seal. SO my question is now that the motor is out, is there any thing i should look out for, or do to the motor that will improve the HP cheap....
 |
-
-
id say give the engine compartment a good cleaning while the motor is out.
Also replace the oil pump.http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
http://secondhandradio.com/
R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06
http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634 -
Re: I pulled my motor ......
Look at the top of the engine, there is this thing called a CFI. take that off, and throw it away. That should improve HP somewhatOriginally posted by Chachi
Seriously though, clean up the block and give it a real nice paintjob, to match the kickassedness of the rest of the car
Comment
-
i was thinking if i have time i will debur the block and shave all casting seams. and mabe bore out the oil gallies
Comment
-
definitely replace the oil pump, oil pump shaft, and timing chain/gears.........your car has the nylon crank gear bound to find pieces of it in the oil pan ...check the rod and main bearings.........might also think about a mild performance cam and new lifters
scott
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
Comment
-
I for got about the nylon crank gear... I broke one once its probly still in the oil pan
Comment
-
Shaving the casting marks and giving the engine a mild finish will look awesome. My Dad and I did that to his 292 Y Block, it's pretty easy, only took about 3 hours to give it a decently smooth surface.
Check piston wall wear, and piston wear. Also make sure that your crank bearings are in good shape. This is where people cheap out, and this is where it really makes the difference. If you freshen up the rotating assembly you will get an engine good for another 200,000 miles. This is what makes it feel like a new engine, not just a rebuilt engine. I would replace the crank bearings, and hone the cylinder walls, and get new piston rings. As long as everything checks out to tollerances, that should be all that is needed for the rotating assembly.
Comment
-
~EDIT~ Repost....Comment
-
should i buy any paticular brand crank bearings and such. or would any old advanced auto shelf stock work?
Comment
-
I've always used Clevite 77 bearings... I think they're made by Federal Mogul, but I haven't done an engine build in two years, so I can't really remember.
You can find suppliers on eBay for a lot cheaper than the parts stores.2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.Comment
-
Buy the "Clevitte 77" they may be a little more expensive but they are worth it.http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
http://secondhandradio.com/
R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06
http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634Comment
-
Last bearings I got from Advance were Clevite 77 cam bearings, and they're pretty good quality. Its what came in the engine kit from NAPA and I haven't heard too much bad about them. Don't cheap on the gaskets tho, it sucks having to take stuff apart to replace a failed gasket in an ignorant spot. Pretty much all the above I agree with, inspect/replace the rod and main bearings, front/rear seals, timing chain, water pump since it has to come off anyway, and an oil pump. I'd also toss a new front and rear seal in the transmission since its right there and costs $5.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
-
good call
Comment
-
Hmmmm, I think you should go with Clevite 77....Comment
-
Sweet.
I think you should take and build a 5.0 HO out of a mustang, and convert to carb, cleaning up the wiring in the process.
You will almost double your old dyno results...1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!
Comment
Comment