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    frickin junk parts

    So Scott brought to my attention today that my 16k mile old water pump is beginning to fail and leak out of the piss hole on top. I can also see the seal in the hole, so its obviously out of position. Damn pump was new (a NAPA rebuilt anyway) when I built the motor. Friggin junk, this is not what I planned on doing this week after work. I guess I'll go get a replacement tomorrow, and fool with it Wed. Teus I might have a job interview so I can't go screwing with it before that. I figure I'll tear it down one night, put it back together the next. This is a good excuse to paint the engine brackets that I didn't do when they were off last time. I also have to check to see if my Mark 7 smog pump is any good, and if it will fit my car. Mine is getting worse to the point where it squalls steady at idle after a good long run.

    So yeah, for the techy-type crap. Anyone know if a Mark VII smog pump is the same as a panther pump? PN is e75e-aa and the sticker says 28 lb/hr. Looks the same to me in any case. I'd ditch the thing but I'm not 100% sure it will pass emissions without it. Sometimes they look under the hood, sometimes not.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    #2
    The stock smog pump on my '88 is an E6VE-AA unit rated at 31lb/hr, my replacement '84 GM one also blows at 31lb/hr. 3lb/hr difference from your Mark VII pump, shouldn't be that big of a deal since the thing's gonna work only 10 minutes anyhow.

    Comment


      #3
      Also considering I have no downtube to the cats, it matters even less. The stock cat airpipe doesn't clear the headers, and my new cats have the air pipe holes welded shut.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        You would only need it for visual purposes.

        Hell, ive heard about vehicles in IL passing the sniffer with NO SMOG PUMP.
        1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
        Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

        Comment


          #5
          The pupose of a smog pump is only to warm the cats up quicker. After they are warmed up it has no effect on emissions. Technicaly all sensor smog testing has to be done when warm, not cold.

          Comment


            #6
            Passed mine with flying colors without a pump. Just make sure you plug the ports on the back of the heads.

            2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
            My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

            Comment


              #7
              how do you plug the ports in the back of the heads again?
              1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

              Comment


                #8
                Take off the crossover tube on the back. Cut it off at the fittings. Flip the fittings so the back is facing on the hole. Put the bolt back in and bam your done.

                2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                Comment


                  #9
                  so hacksaw the tube off the little flat part where it usually goes on the head, and then flip it backwards so the hole in the head is covered and put the bolt back in?
                  1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You got it. Or I heard you can buy bolts that go in but I'm not 100% on that. This way is free, and it isnt as hard. GMGT told me how to do this. Depending on your personal preference you may also want to dab some RTV on it too.

                    2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                    My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I almost forgot, if you have the tubes going into your cats, you need to have them closed off, or you could live with an exhaust leak right below your feet.

                      2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                      My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                      Comment


                        #12
                        haha the whole exhaust is getting redone so thats no prob. I got mustang headers, catless H- pipe and 2 flowmaster 40's
                        1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          For plugging the heads use two 5/8-11" bolts, 1/2 length is more than enough. They go directly in the holes for the pipe, but you'll need lots of carb-cleaner or some other similar chemical to clean the threads first. I did that to mine, much better sollution than flipping the nasty pipe.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            OK, so if I toss the smog pump, how does the belt route, essentially the same minus the wrap around the smog pump pulley? Anyone know offhand what belt I need for this? The stock air tube really makes that whole side of the engine look crappy. Mine has been repainted and its not rusty or anything, but it just looks congested.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by lincolnmania
                              just take the pulley off the air pump and run a 500k6 belt tom
                              Dump your smog pump man, everyones doin it.
                              1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                              Comment

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