351 or Lightning

[Bobcat]

Too bad you don't want a lightning upper, for that lower

[tjc78]

My 04 with 95000 doesn't burn a drop after 4000 miles, however for simplicity new block HO mass air conversion and call it done.

[jaywish]

Hi Donald,

It sure would be simpler to do a HO small block ford, either 5.0 or 5.7. Simpler usually means cheaper.
The later model modular engines might very well be more satisfying and perhaps more fuel efficient in the end but the retrofit would probably take a bit longer and you would have to find someone who wants to do the research and integrate the later controls into the old body.

I loved my 1993 4.6. You could have stood a nickle on it the day I got it and you could have stood the same nickle on it the day it went to the scrapper with with 200Kmiles on it. Never needed internal work, never used oil.

Either v8 is a respected workhorse.

[86VickyLX]

Keep the modulars away from the boxes. You wanna talk wiring nightmares? Ask Thain what he had to go through to get Sly's already modular powered 93 vic to a more proper one out of an 03... The 351w would not require any more wiring, as it uses the same harness. A tune would help and get the most power/economy. Lightning upper and lower, gt40 or better heads, and a roller compatible block (94+ 351w) and you're good to go. Cam all depends on what you're planning on doing with it.

[knucklehead0202]

I'm not saying the modulars are bad motors, I just don't like them. Torqueless turds below about 3500rpm does not make a good motor for a big car or any truck. I've owned and/or driven several vehicles over the years with mod motors and ALL of them consumed oil at some level. I don't care about that really but I just don't like the fact that they're physically larger, heavier, more difficult to work on, and make no torque. Having driven my '98 for years, the '90 is a breath of fresh air, even with way less HP. Torque is what makes the magic happen. I agree that the mods get notably better fuel economy, but the old pushrod motors can be built/tuned well enough to be in the running. My '98 gets between 15-20 around town(I have a heavy foot and noisy exhaust), and upwards of 25mpg on the highway, usually averaging low 20s combined. The '90 on her maiden voyage with about 50/50 city/highway averaged 19. Still can't bitch since it was all miles of smiles. Don't know if I can ever own a "little" car again, I love my boats. May have to get an earlier box and a barge Lincoln down the road. Never much cared for any of the Tudors though, sorry guys. There's lots of them here in California if any of you ever get hard up for one though. Let me know.

[turbo2256b]

351W roller blocks are cracking on #2 and 4 cam bearing. not noticeable untill cam brgs are removed. One guy claming 2 to 3 cracked blocks for every 10 they do.

[gadget73]

hm, had not heard that. Not particularly encouraging, though at least its something you can find before getting the motor together if all it requires is knocking out the cam bearings during the rebuild.

[pantera77]

Yep,

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-...lock-guys.html

[Brown_Muscle]

I too have heard that, probably safer to convert an older 351 block to roller

[packman]

Somebody posted a thread about the cam journals on the roller 351W. Regardless, I would still go that route. Probably can find a set of TFS twisted wedge heads on corral for a deal. If your 351W turns out to be one of those cracked journal engines, then use the TFS stuff on your 5.0L with a rebuilt short block.

Packman

[dmccaig]

What is corral?

Donald

[87gtVIC]

http://www.corral.net/

It is a popular Mustang centered Ford web forum.

[dmccaig]

Forgive my ignorance. I know I can find a 351 in a yard somewhere but wouldn't I get better results starting with something like this http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...Engine-Blocks/ and completing it?

Donald

[JeffBoudah]

Results? depends. Increased capacity? For sure... use these or a dart block, but that's serious $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $2k is what most have a budget for to build the entire long block. A 69-74 block is good base, use some linkbar hyd roller lifters and any cam that fits your build.

I have a roller block with cam bearings still in it, I should pull them to see if it's got the crack or not.

[gadget73]

an aftermarket block is nice, but those are more intended for very high performance builds that would produce more power than the stock block can deal with. Thats a fine piece, but I personally think it would be tremendous overkill for what you're looking for. A stock block, provided its not cracked, would easily do what you're looking to do without anywhere near the expense.

One path might simply be to get a reman shorblock and put whatever cam and heads make sense on it. That should get a sound bottom end and block that isn't damaged.