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    Weird cooling issues

    So about a year and a half ago, I put in a new water pump (old one was leaking) and a new SuperStant Thermostat. Even before that, I had tried to flush the coolant passages and radiator prior to the change. What I kept seeing then and am still seeing now, in my radiator, is brown gunk and deposits. The brown sludge is coating the inside of the radiator. I empty and replace the coolant and it comes back. Now am getting cooling issues (overheating on hot days, not past the danger point, but on the "A" and even "L" on my gauge. I have never seen this before on any car I've owned, but thinking it may be one of two things:

    1. transmission fluid is leaking into the radiator fluid, in the cooler on side of radiator? I've seen this before in a Chevy, but what you'll also see is when the engine is shut down and cool, coolant goes into the transmission fluid (bad). this isn't happening here.

    2. engine oil is getting into the coolant through either a head gasket or an intake gasket failure?

    I would like to simply go ahead and change out the radiator, but that may not be the solution here.

    Thoughts./suggestions?
    95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
    96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
    77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
    98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
    90 Grand Marquis, stock

    #2
    Well unfortunately you have to start somewhere, so I'd start at the cheapest place. Are you notably losing trans fluid or coolant? Perhaps you just need a professional cooling system flush. If at any point the wrong coolant was used, or it sat a long time, the tint of that crap could just be thick in your system. A good radiator shop might be able to provide some insight just by looking at it too.

    Comment


      #3
      it was really thick in my 93. professional flush eliminated a lot, but I ended up doing that F150 radiator swap and that seems to have helped a lot. I probably need to do another flush anyhow to help get stuff out of the heater core and the bottom of the block... but meh. temps are rock solid now.

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by knucklehead0202 View Post
        Well unfortunately you have to start somewhere, so I'd start at the cheapest place. Are you notably losing trans fluid or coolant? Perhaps you just need a professional cooling system flush. If at any point the wrong coolant was used, or it sat a long time, the tint of that crap could just be thick in your system. A good radiator shop might be able to provide some insight just by looking at it too.
        I'm not losing transmission fluid, but I am losing coolant through the overfill container. It's almost like there's a clog in the radiator and it's not circulating thru the block very well. You are right, my heater core gets clogged continuously. The car did get driven very infrequently for a while - an older man owned it. When I bought it in 2012, it had about 69,000 miles on it. I can't imagine how or why anyone would've used the DexCool crap in there, so I don't think that happened. I did Prestone flushes, multiple ones, over a year ago but there's gunk/sludge galore in the radiator again. I may try the route of pro radiator shop - not many of those left around here anymore.
        95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
        96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
        77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
        98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
        90 Grand Marquis, stock

        Comment


          #5
          I've been blessed with having several good radiator guys local, of course I haven't had any cooling system trouble in a long time. But yeah, a pro should be able to sort you out or at least point you in the right direction. For whatever reason, every radiator shop I've ever been too has had really cool people working there that are unusually helpful and pleasant. Wish my experiences with mechanics and other things were as good.

          Comment


            #6
            are you sure the radiator cap is good. if it's bad it'll do the overflow tank spray.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

            Comment


              #7
              I'd shitcan the radiator if its got that much garbage in it. Its probably half clogged anyway. Flush the rest of the motor extremely well while its out, otherwise all the garbage that is laying in the motor will just move into the new radiator. Might be worth running a couple treatments of the cooling system cleaner through with the old radiator first though, even if you do end up replacing it. That should help get the garbage out of the motor if nothing else.

              Trans coolers can leak into the water, but you'd see it as an oil film, not just the rusty nasty crap.

              Replace the fan clutch too if you have not.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks Sly and Gadget,
                Yes, I'll just get a new radiator cap. Mine is original and may be burping a bit. I can get a new radiator too. Can a radiator shop do any more cleaning than I could, using the Prestone heavy duty ass stuff?
                95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
                96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
                77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
                98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
                90 Grand Marquis, stock

                Comment


                  #9
                  if it's bad, they typically get the hose out and just run water through the rad and engine until it runs clean. That's what they did for my 93 vic when I had them do it.

                  Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                  rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                  Originally posted by dmccaig
                  Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    they can also use a mild acid to remove mineral deposits, but white vinegar will do the same thing. Get some hose that will connect the top to the bottom, fill it with vinegar, and let it sit in the sun for a day. That should eat out any hard water crap that may have built up over the years, but silt and loose stuff will usually come out well enough with water. I've found that removing the radiator so you can blast in there from both openings and at various angles can help loosen stuff up too.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                      I'd shitcan the radiator if its got that much garbage in it. Its probably half clogged anyway... ...Replace the fan clutch too if you have not.
                      ^^^What he said.

                      Ashley was having overheating issues with her '89 TC for the longest time. Then last winter the thermostat stuck open so we replaced thinking that might've solved the problem but no bueno. I was about ready to throw a water pump at it but the fine folks here suggested we replace the fan clutch and after doing that, car doesn't over heat any more.

                      We also bought a '88 GMC that had never seen a coolant flush, stuff was black. We're three flushes in and the coolant is only now becoming a murky green. Radiator now leaks but I plan to flush it a few more times and let gunk collect in there before changing that & the old T stat out.
                      1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                      1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks guys. I flushed the heater core thoroughly yesterday, then removed the thermostat and did a backwards and forwards flush of the engine. Good clear water with high pressure both ways. Put on the new radiator and have run her about 20 miles and it's actually green again and running cool (still need to drain and put in the thermostat). The old radiator was the culprit. I did forget at first to put sealant on the transmission cooler adapters that thread into the radiator (they are NPT and would need tape or thread sealant) so was leaking DexIII on the ground. I removed and taped with PTFE tape and she's all fine. Of course, no tape applied to the actual line to adapter, which is a flare fitting.

                        Didn't replace the fan clutch - it seemed to have good resistance so it should be still good.
                        95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
                        96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
                        77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
                        98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
                        90 Grand Marquis, stock

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I usually did the backflush system.

                          You could buy the kit at any FLAPS, it's cheap, and the effects are great!
                          "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                          -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                          -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                          -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                          -2011 Subaru Outback

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I have to admit, I like the later NPT to flare adapter setup. Much less shitty than the quick connects I have. Those at least never go bad, my stupid quick connects go bad if you try and move the line after they have been in place for a couple years.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                            Comment

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