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My manifold was terrible John. I tried letting PB soak for days but couldn't get the spacer to separate from the manifold. Had to heat it with a propane torch and then cut into it, the studs were terrible, I should've taken pics. I chemically stripped the manifold and painted it after, saved it from the dead but overlooked that two of the bolts that hold the 5.0 plate on had already been drilled out badly. Don't know if I can fix that.
1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge
EGR spacer behind it runs coolant through it, so yes. Probably a helpful thing for cold starts in the winter to keep things from icing up, but other than that, us warmer weather folks tend to bypass that little hose.
Never heard of an actual instance in which the throttle iced up in cold weather anyway. Kind of a moot point as the thing wouldn't work until the engine was to operating temperature anyway..
I think that's it; When cold it's fine but as you have a hot engine & cold air coming in you get condensation?? That or it just acts as an EGR cooler. Our dumb GMC truck has a spacer/adaptor that is sandwiched between the intake & TB that has coolant running through it too. Firebird has similar TB but does not have spacer thing. Probably not necessary but then why waste money on the stuff? Maybe for those people who like to drive up & down mountains?
1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge
All good now. Overall I think it was IAC gasket though. When I reassembled the intake the bottom bolt on the IAC wouldn't screw in all the way right. I started the car and with a new gasket you could definitely hear a loud whine from the leak. So I had to take back off the throttle body and spin it 45 degrees to get a good angle on the bottom bolt. Tightened it flush and it's back to normal. The length of socket and the closeness of the ratchet only allowed he bottom bolt to be tightened so much because of clearance.
Get yourself one of them there ratcheting wrenches. Those are tits. Took me forever to install my fan clutch but then I had to do it again but did it with ratcheting wrench and I did it in at least half the time.
1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge
Speaking of fan clutches. How do you tell if it's bad
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Drive the car to normal operating temp then let it sit and heat soak the engine bay. Open the hood after a few minutes - the blade should be hard to turn. If it's not, you've got a bad clutch. Also look for oily residue around the clutch.
All the boxes I've had needed a fan clutch. My 82 leaked all the fluid out then locked up so it was a solid mount fan then. Sounded like a airplane above 2k rpm but ran really cool!
1990 Country Squire - under restoration
1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater
Thermal is better as it will spin freer when cold (almost freewheel) but when warm will tighten up and pull more air. The standard one doesn't do that. It will technically work, but if you have to deal with parking lot traffic in the summer, above 100F, on blacktop, AC running, you may overheat. I do know they carry a different fan clutch than they used to and I have no clue if it's any good as I've never seen that design before. The police package thermal one is also the tow package one. It will pull more air as it's the HD version. It will be louder. The one you have will work though, just not as well.
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