I got a red engine light on my 85 and it's acting sluggish, what's the difference between the yellow "check engine" and red "engine" lights on these cars?
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The red "ENGINE" light comes on when oil pressure is too low (below either 6 or 10 psi, if memory serves) or coolant temperature is too high (250°F or above).1985 LTD Crown Victoria
1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, 360
Past: 1995 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
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Originally posted by Stocker View PostThe red "ENGINE" light comes on when oil pressure is too low (below either 6 or 10 psi, if memory serves) or coolant temperature is too high (250°F or above).
My Cars:
-1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
-1979 Ford LTD Landau (38K Miles) - New Cruiser
-1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
-1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (343K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
-1997 Grand Marquis LS (244K Miles) - March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner - Sold (05/2011 - 07/2024)
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That would be the "replace engine" light. Unless its a bad sensor, fair bet she's fucked if you've been driving with that on for any amount of time at all.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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Originally posted by 91merc View PostWell the coolant temp sensor has bare wire on the little snap plug. And I might've disturbed it when I pressure washed the engine, oil pressure wiring doesn't look the best either1985 LTD Crown Victoria
1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, 360
Past: 1995 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
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Originally posted by WagonMan View PostDoesn't an 85 have the "low oil" sensor in the oil pan? The sensor can be stuck or the wire going to it may be shorting out. WagonMan1985 LTD Crown Victoria
1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, 360
Past: 1995 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
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does it go out when you rev it up?
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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The first time I drove it about 15 miles, parked it for about 10 minutes and it was on right from startup, then I went under the hood and wiggled some various wires and it stayed off for about 10 more miles, the last 5 or so miles there was no knocking or coolant smell, just a little sluggish
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If the coolant temp sensor or the oil pressure sensor grounds due to faulty wiring and/or a faulty sensor, the light will turn on. By what you are describing, that sounds like your issue.
A steady on red engine light for actual temp or oil pressure reasons basically means turn it off ASAP or you're gonna nuke it.1990 Country Squire - under restoration
1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater
GMN Box Panther History
Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
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Originally posted by Tiggie View PostIf the coolant temp sensor or the oil pressure sensor grounds due to faulty wiring and/or a faulty sensor, the light will turn on. By what you are describing, that sounds like your issue.
A steady on red engine light for actual temp or oil pressure reasons basically means turn it off ASAP or you're gonna nuke it.
I think you're right on the ground problem cuz it stayed off on my 20 mile commute to work and ran real good. If the ground problem is the case, would that basically fool the computer into thinking the engine was about to grenade and throw the car into limp mode and thats why it was sluggish?
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