MOTOR ...

[beep_beep]

347 stroker
(here is some specs on a motor, i was wondering what you all think?)

Block:
Hand picked seasoned blocks bored .040 over
Square and parallel decked
Align honed main bearing bore
Cylinders honed on computer controlled machine to within .0002 straightness and roundness
Cylinders are sonic tested for thickness

Rotating Assembly:
New SCAT cast crankshaft
New SCAT rods w/ 150,000 psi bolts
Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons
Hastings Moly rings
Balanced rotating assembly
Melling high volume oil pump
Flat tappet hydraulic lifter camshaft
Heavy duty double roller timing set

Cylinder Heads:
Modified Ford cast iron heads
Hardened retainers and springs
2.02 swirl polished intake valves
1.60 swirl polished exhaust valves
Hardened push rods

A Ton Of Extras:
Professional Products dual plane satin aluminum intake manifold
9.5 to 1 compression
Signature series aluminum valve covers
Brass freeze plugs

Critical Specs:
Horsepower:
330
Torque:
380

[Freshmeat]

Sounds okay as a package, but:

1) .040" is a LOT of overbore...
2) Flat tappet cam? Come on...
3) I've heard lots of bad things about Scat equipment...
4) That hp seems low for that build...

[Mercmarquis]

I would get forged pistons

[DuceAnAHalf]

Sounds okay as a package, but:

1) .040" is a LOT of overbore...
2) Flat tappet cam? Come on...
3) I've heard lots of bad things about Scat equipment...
4) That hp seems low for that build...

nowadays Scat has surpassed Eagles quality
a local guy had his Scat crank at the engines builder. he was told that the crank was as good as the $3000 Calais crank he had in there a few weeks prior. also go forged rotating assembly

[beep_beep]

here is another motor ...

347 Stroker
Block:
Hand picked seasoned blocks bored .040 over
Square and parallel decked
Align honed main bearing bore
Cylinders honed on computer controlled machine to within .0002 straightness and roundness
Cylinders are sonic tested for thickness

Rotating Assembly:
New SCAT forged crankshaft
New SCAT rods w/ 150,000 psi bolts
New PROBE forged pistons
Hastings Moly rings
Balanced rotating assembly
Melling high volume oil pump
Roller camshaft
Heavy duty double roller timing set

Cylinder Heads:
New DART aluminum heads
1.437 diameter valve springs
Hardened retainers and springs
2.02 swirl polished intake valves
1.60 swirl polished exhaust valves
Hardened push rods

A Ton Of Extras:
Professional Products polished aluminum intake manifold
9.5 to 1 compression
Signature series aluminum valve covers
Brass freeze plugs

Critical Specs:
Horsepower:
425
Torque:
410
=======
i would probably sell the aluminum stuf to offset the price of the motor lol

[P71Times2]

I would get forged pistons

+175

For Sure!

[Mercmarquis]

Second one sounds like a winner to me

[phayzer5]

You can save a few bucks by using the iron heads

[Roach III]

Yes, but you can run more aggressive timing and/or higher compression with aluminum heads due to the cooling properties.

Personally, I would go with a 331 with .030 over because the rod ratio isn't so bad. And, forged everything, fo sho.

[Mercracer]

Yes, but you can run more aggressive timing and/or higher compression with aluminum heads due to the cooling properties.

Everything else being equal in regards to a set of aluminum and iron heads, you have to run higher compression with the aluminum heads because of the power loss you have. Combustion energy makes power. Aluminum steals that heat energy.
The big picture is that it is hard to get a set of iron heads to flow near the level of most aftermarket aluminum heads.

[Grand Marquis GT]

Those roush 200s are pretty good iron heads, IMO...

[DuceAnAHalf]

Those roush 200s are pretty good iron heads, IMO...

Im getting those. its going to be a bit unnearving taking a carbide burr to them.

[P71Times2]

Right now the 347 is running AFR aluminum heads, but for a while we used a set of the 2.02/1.60 Roush heads.

They would definitely be my number 1 choice if I were to get rid of the AFR's for some reason.

BTW, there are plans to produce an aluminum version of the 200's.

[phayzer5]

Stock for stock, the pro topline iron heads give bolt on hp improvement over the Roush heads, and are offered in an aluminum version

[P71Times2]

When it comes to cylinder heads it's easy to get caught up in the advertising hype, and there is a trade off (and cost factor) of what you need, instead of what you think you need.

You really need to look at your application, then determine what type of flow rates/etc are actually required for the specific vehicle.

There is a big difference between a 'daily driver street/strip" car and one that is built to the max and towed to the track to run in one of the Pro Classes.

No point in spending $2,500+ for a set of the latest "super duper" cylinder heads, when something that costs <$800 will handle your induction flow rates on a hot street car. Installing a set of high dollar, large valve, high flow rate heads could actually hurt performance (and low end response) unless you are running a turbo/supercharger that requires the additional flow.