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How to get to the air tubes

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    How to get to the air tubes

    I need to replace the copper air tube(s) that goes into the back of the cylinder head which is causing a vacumm leak. It got crushed while I was replacing the 02 sensors (a wire melted on the passenger side header) and the egr valve, because I could barely get a wrench in there to get the sensor out of the passenger side header.

    So, do I need to remove the upper intake to get to the air tube (s) in the back of the cylinder head? What is involved in removing the upper intake and can I simply unbolt it and maybe move it out of the way? Or do I have go as far as relieving fuel pressure, draining coolant, etc?

    Also, does napa carry this part or will I have to go to a dealer?
    Current rides - 1991 Ford Thunderbird 3.8 v6 (gas saver/DD) - New Heads/Headgaskets with ARP studs, Air Silencer Delete, 70mm MAF, Plasti-dipped Matte Black with a Silver Metalflake Overlay, Muffler Delete, some LED's, 30.233 MPG for high MPG average!
    2006 Jeep Wrangler 4WD (fun vehicle/backup DD) - 4.0/6spd - too many mods to list.

    Associated Panthers:
    Father's 1994 Ford Crown Victoria - Stock, 45,000 miles.
    Sold in 2007 - 1987 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "Grandpa Special" 2 door.
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2128327

    #2
    IIRC you shouldn't even have to pull the upper off. It's easy though. 6 bolts in the upper intake, hold it down.

    There are only 2 bolts that hold the air tube on, you'll have to use a wrench.

    If you want decent used ones, I have quite a few sitting around...
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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      #3
      Yes, it's a bitch and a half to get a wrench in there, but it's doable - you will want the upper intake plenum out of the way though. Dropping fuel pressure is always a good idea when working on an EFI engine. The only cooland you might want to drain is the one in the EGR spacer, and even that's not absolurtely necessary if you're careful. I'd suggest to not replace that pipe, but to completely remove it and plug the holes in the heads with 5/8" bolts - the pipe IIRC is a dealer-only part, and you won't like its price at all

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        #4
        I'll try the 5/8 size bolts, I need a quick fix until I get a new smog pump also. It seized about two weeks ago so I removed it and plugged the lines for it. I can't get away running without it, the shop that I take it to refused to work on the car until its replaced. The emissions equipment has to all be there from the factory and I can't even replace the cataytics with the ones that don't use the smog pump in my county.

        mrltd, Thanks for the offer. I'll take the air tube if you have it and if you have the vacumm tubing for the valve that would be great too.
        Current rides - 1991 Ford Thunderbird 3.8 v6 (gas saver/DD) - New Heads/Headgaskets with ARP studs, Air Silencer Delete, 70mm MAF, Plasti-dipped Matte Black with a Silver Metalflake Overlay, Muffler Delete, some LED's, 30.233 MPG for high MPG average!
        2006 Jeep Wrangler 4WD (fun vehicle/backup DD) - 4.0/6spd - too many mods to list.

        Associated Panthers:
        Father's 1994 Ford Crown Victoria - Stock, 45,000 miles.
        Sold in 2007 - 1987 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "Grandpa Special" 2 door.
        http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2128327

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