Exhaust suggestions - stock/HO

[zoomie]

just go with standard shorty headers, i swear by the bbks, and the 1515 headers will also serve double duty should you decide to use p heads in the future.

[Stealthlead]

Thanks Zoomie, I'll just keep an eye out for a pair and go with that. I didn't think it would matter much.

I'll try and do a bit of cost analysis here;
BBK shorties - $150-$250
BBK H-pipe - $400 (Can't really find any used, guess I'll buy new)
Mid pipe - $50-100 after I have the custom length
Glasspack - $80
Walker exhaust piece 54017 - $80
I'm thinking Magnaflow stainless tips or something - $100+

I'm looking at around at least a $1k system here, mostly new though. I took a look under again, I'm pretty sure I only need the end pipe for the Impala like this;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WALKER-EXHAU...sories&vxp=mtr

Also, my muffler is HUGE, and there is what looks like plenty of spare room in the mid pipe for a huge glasspack if I wanted one. I also noticed the current tips would not exit through the rear if they were long enough to do so, they would hit the back of the bumper. Not quite sure how to counter this, because pulling the tail pipes lower would make them hit the axle. Maybe bending it down a bit further after the peak ends? Also I will need some extra piping for the tail pipes to make that extra trip and exit out of the back/right before. Also, answers to my previous post would be awesome.

~Stealth

[jaywish]

Hi,
I know you say you want to do it yoursef and keep the price down. Still I need to say stainless. For long term use you can not beat it. Find a shop that does custom stainless exhausts and get a price for a header back system with cats. Install the header yourself to keep the cost down and you should not have to worry about the system for a long long time. It will cost a bit more than you planned, but stainless will be much better if you manage to keep the car for a while.

Jay

[Stealthlead]

Facebrick

Someone tells me that after I've been researching the shit out of this but w/e. You do bring up a good point about stainless vs aluminized, I didn't take that into consideration. I found a custom exhaust place close by, I guess I'll get a quote just to see.

Also I was reading you need to be careful about what kind of stainless steel you go with. I noticed the pypes headers use 304 marine grade steel, and aren't outrageously expensive;
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...Shorty-Headers
Will those fit? If I get a reasonable estimate I could just put those in and let them take care of the rest. I will need to get it cut+welded anyways which is shit I can't do on my own.

[jaywish]

I do not know if those will fit, I am just using the Stock steel headers that came out of the Lincoln donor car. I am told they are the same as any Mustang header. They seem to have lasted 23 years so far.

Jay

[zoomie]

i have yet to see a pair of stang shorties that dont fit the panthers.. boxes that is. and who are you buying glasspack through 80 bucks is a rip off i got my cherrybombs for like 14 bucks a piece at napa. if you want to get expensive mufflers use borla XS pro mufflers and they are stainless whoot!

[sxcpotatoes]

Those Pypes headers are the same ones I got for the car I got off of 1980c10 (with the purple turbines!). Okay, I'm tired of referring to her as 1980c10's old car. Time to name the car.

'Tatiana' - titanium paint, RED (communism!) on the inside, Purple rims, fast (or will be again), but she's got some damaged clearcoat.

Anyway, I got those Pypes for $100 on CL, if you're patient something is always popping up. I used a site called "SearchTempest" for searching all the CL areas around me. I can generally find Mustang H-pipes for about $70-80 around here. Maybe they're kits or not 'name brand BBK' pipes but most of the ones that aren't full exhaust systems are brand new.

[Stealthlead]

The local shop quoted me $350 with glasspacks. He said they can't bend stainless steel but that it would be no problem other than that and that they do a ton of these. I'm going to order a set of those pypes headers, get them in and take it there in a week or two.

Also to the above response, did the dipstick have to be altered for the pypes to fit?

[packman]

I had to bend my dipstick a little, but was able to use the stock mount somehow.


Packman

[Stealthlead]

Did you have to take out the motor mounts or anything?

[sxcpotatoes]

Actually, don't have them in yet. Car came with the dipstick tube loose because of no headers at all on it, it is bent, but you really really shouldn't have to take motor mounts out. Of course I'm putting them in without a transmission in it at all too.

[gadget73]

Motor mounts don't need to come out to install the headers. They will slide in there once you get the dipstick tube and the smog plumbing brackets out of the way.

I never mounted my dipstick to anything. It sort of hangs out there. Can't make it fit on anything. Stupid reduced head bolts won't allow me to use a sane mounting solution, and there isn't enough room between the primary tube and the bolt to sneak the tube in there.

[Stealthlead]

Alright cool I really didn't want to take out the mounts or raise the engine. If you didn't mount the dipstick tube, how do you check your oil now lol? And how did you get it out?

[packman]

Did you have to take out the motor mounts or anything?

No. Like Gadget73 said, you don't need to with shorty headers.

With the three sets of longtubes that I have installed ove the years, both of the Fords I had to lift the engine a little to clear the mounts and install the headers. I hope to build a set of longtubes for the CV one day.



Packman

[johnunit]

Alright cool I really didn't want to take out the mounts or raise the engine. If you didn't mount the dipstick tube, how do you check your oil now lol? And how did you get it out?

It's stuck in the block, no worries. Mine just sorta rests against a header tube, though without header wrap I wouldn't try that. You can kinda bend it to sit wherever and it'll support itself.