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A quick mention of stainless types. 304 is the minimum. Class 400 stainless, might as well toss money out the window, or maybe buy pre-rusted stuff. Type 316 is very good but $.
Pete
Originally posted by gadget73
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My magnaflows aren't too bad either. We (my co) sells 400 series screws because they're magnetic, and I see rusting on them. The minimum outdoor grade sheeting my customers use is 304.
Pete
Originally posted by gadget73
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It's stuck in the block, no worries. Mine just sorta rests against a header tube, though without header wrap I wouldn't try that. You can kinda bend it to sit wherever and it'll support itself.
^ Perfect, exactly what I thought and wanted to hear. Just got back from vacation and the pypes should be in soon. Will obviously provide pictures etc
1991 Grand Marquis LS blog- Mayhem; two 12" Kenwood 800w subs, True dual catback, BBK shorties, cherrybombs, steel top, L/H hella lights, 18" AR Torq thrust, Trans cooler, class 3 hitch kit, more on the way...
various types of 400 grade is magnetic and can be heat treated. both very important properties for applications other than exhaust.
400's sounds better to a customer than 300's, but 409 and 409Rm (remelt) is super cheap these days so everyone is using it when they can, Most 300's are better for exhaust, no need for expencive 303 free machinable, but any 300 corrosion resistant is perfect.
Last edited by bigbeigeboat; 03-18-2012, 03:51 AM.
You know the car runs well when the only things left to work on are the rear door cigarette lighters.
I am going to get my exhaust done tomorrow. My pypes are on the way. I got quoted $350 for aluminized steel, 2.5' all through, cherrybombs, and rounded tailtips. I may be making a mistake but I'm not spending $2,000 on stainless to go to a custom shop which is the only place that would do it. I may be making a mistake but oh well lol
1991 Grand Marquis LS blog- Mayhem; two 12" Kenwood 800w subs, True dual catback, BBK shorties, cherrybombs, steel top, L/H hella lights, 18" AR Torq thrust, Trans cooler, class 3 hitch kit, more on the way...
I am going to get my exhaust done tomorrow. My pypes are on the way. I got quoted $350 for aluminized steel, 2.5' all through, cherrybombs, and rounded tailtips. I may be making a mistake but I'm not spending $2,000 on stainless to go to a custom shop which is the only place that would do it. I may be making a mistake but oh well lol
I painted my exhaust. It seems to be holding up. The regular 500* engine paint seems to work better than the 1200* stuff. Perhaps my exhaust doesn't get hot enough to properly bake the ultra-hi-temp paint onto the pipes. Also, believe it or not, POR 15 seems to coat the exhaust quite well. When I undercoated the CV with that stuff a couple years ago, the drippings that fell on the exhaust have managed to stick. So, I basically find rust/rot spots and coat them with the POR15. I know this isn't a cure, but it adds a little life.
I need to get under my car and paint my Walker exhaust, I was in a hurry and skipped doing it, wish I hadn't but I make sure to wash the underside of my car regularly and it hasn't ever seen salt. Also I always run my car to operating temp so no condensation builds in it.
My buddy is putting a Dynomax catback on his Blazer, it's aluminized and we're going to paint it before we install since we don't want to have to replace it in a few years. We figure we can paint it now and it a few years take it off, clean it and repaint it.
88 Town Car (wrecked, for sale)
Walker OEM duals with muffler deletes
I'm very happy with the work they did for the price. It's also definitely LOUD. Might get it dB tested to see if its within the range of causing hearing damage (don't think it is). Either way I will not hesitate to get rid of the cherrybombs if they're within hearing damage range (I take great pride in my GOOD hearing). It has a pretty bad drone on the freeway and the resonance is kinda bad at certain power bands, but it is REALLY good on idle to first and between second. Its rough on second, and decent on cruising speed.
I have not yet installed my headers (still waiting on them), I'm not quite sure what they will do with the sound; it could make the drone worse, or better. We will see.
Also I have an important question. They cut my pipes right after the cats, and I didn't realize the piping in between the cats, and the cats to manifold was only 2.25' (I thought it was 2.5'). The guy told me after I get my headers on and get some universal cats, I can bring it in and he will install 2.5' piping in between the areas I mentioned and the cats for a good price.
I was under the impression the headers' exits' are 2.5', but worked with the stock piping before the cats (which I also thought was 2.5'. I thought it was after the cats when it went to 2.25'). What is the exit size of the pypes headers and how should I do this? I'm obviously going to make sure I get a complete 2.5' system.
1991 Grand Marquis LS blog- Mayhem; two 12" Kenwood 800w subs, True dual catback, BBK shorties, cherrybombs, steel top, L/H hella lights, 18" AR Torq thrust, Trans cooler, class 3 hitch kit, more on the way...
When you go back have them install an H-pipe as well, helps clean up the sound as well as make it a bit quieter, and adds power due to increased scavenging. Other than that it looks great.
88 Town Car (wrecked, for sale)
Walker OEM duals with muffler deletes
very nice mang. i did the 86 with dual thrust turbos and its a bit droney but yours atleast exist the rear end to the bumper. i love the way glass packs sound as i have 1 on the 84 gm. i think magna flow sells a universal performane cat.
1984 mercury grand marquis ls rebuilt 306 flat top pistons with factory cfi and lincoln headers with single glasspack dual snorkle air cleaner. Gloss black paint with slick top coversion.
1986 mercury grand marquis colony park 5.0 sefi dual exhuast thrush turbos with h pipe and turbines
Most aftermarket mustang headers are 2.5" exit. Not sure how you solve that cheaply/simply.
Yeah, that's what I thought. I'll measure them out but I'm 99% sure they're 2.5". Also I meant 2.5"* in my post above lmao.
First of all it won't be to expensive, he quoted me even less for the headers to mid pipe he already put in. Also, this guy is really nice, but really hates putting in headers. Worst case scenario... I could loosen up my manifold bolts at home to ensure a smooth installation of the pypes... and then remove them at his shop by myself, install the pypes and then let him just put in the H pipe and cats. What are some universal cats I should get for this? I only need two.
Thanks~
1991 Grand Marquis LS blog- Mayhem; two 12" Kenwood 800w subs, True dual catback, BBK shorties, cherrybombs, steel top, L/H hella lights, 18" AR Torq thrust, Trans cooler, class 3 hitch kit, more on the way...
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