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I severely doubt it. Though you could make one of your own by removing the rubber from yours and welding some round stock just big enough for the bolt to pass through in there and filling the space with enough bracing to make it stay put (probably more of the same round stock to fill the gaps would work a treat and give optional positioning choices).
I'd be curious about drop mounts too, but I've never seen any performance mounts for these cars. I agree that easiest would be to just weld something. Normal mounts are cheap. Buy 3 pairs for 50 bucks and experiment.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
You can get poly filler for the mounts, but that requires drilling the spot welds to take the two halves apart, putting said poly filler in place of the rubber and then welding it back together or bolting it on the frame and hoping the halves don't shift.
But yeah... the frame half is specific to the panthers... or so I figure from the application chart on rock auto for the mounts.
Panther mounts is panther mounts. The Mustang ones are completely different. Having changed both types, I can tell you the Fox mounts are much less difficult to deal with.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker
2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...
Carid seems like one of those sites that figures a 5.0 is a 5.0 and if it fits one it must fit all.
1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker
2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...
What are the benefits of these? Rigidity, closeness to frame (manifold clearance), erosion resistant?
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Mostly rigidity from what I understand. It's not really practical for the street, it's mainly used for strength in racing. Usually cheaper, too, if anyone makes them. Just a big hardened metal bracket.
89 Grand Marquis GS.
Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.
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