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Yeah damn it, noticed the trans in my "new" car isn't as tight as the other one was, even though it's got way less miles. Even has the brass bushing in it when I got it, but who knows how long the shitty one was in there before that happened. Oh well, may just order the silver fox VB, goddamn it...
Try a smidge more pressure first.
Miles aren't everything. Later transmissions had some revisions that made them work better. If it was rebuilt, it may have been tinkered with to work better. Some of them also just suck for non-obvious reasons. Bad rebuilds can make then feel just horrible as well. I've ridden in a few "fresh" trans cars that shifted like the most worn out POS you can imagine.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
Grab the cable by the crimp barrel at the end of it (the cylinder that keeps it from sliding thru the black adjuster block attached to the TB lever), pull crimp barrel away from adjuster block, tie a thin zippie directly around the able itself between crimp barrel and adjuster block, let go of the crimp barrel - cable will "reel" itself in thru the adjuster block and the zippie will get sandwiched between the crimp barrel and the adjuster block effectively pulling a bit tighter on the cable and increasing your line pressure.
The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.
Yep. If skinny zip tie isn't enough, try a wider one. The Mark VII has had the same medium size zip tie fixing the pressure adjustment for 7 years now.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
It moves the shift points higher in the MPH range, most noticeable in the 3-4 upshift. Say your car slides into 4th (cause from that factory that really ain't no proper shift) at 40-45 mph under light throttle, with the TV pressure increased you gotta either run her up to say 55mph, or let off the throttle for a second and let her upshift and then get on the throttle again. At the same rate the downshifts become more touchy, say you're traveling at 65mph and wanna pass someone, with the factory setup you gotta lean on the throttle like halfway down till she drops out of OD and into 3rd, but with the higher line pressure you only need to give her 1/4 throttle to make her do what she's supposed to.
The real benefit is that increased line pressure fills up the accumulators somewhat faster and also squeezes the clutches somewhat harder, and thus it takes less time to disengage one gear and to engage the other (duration of the actual shifting activity), and once in the proper gear the clutches grab harder and are less likely to slip under load.
The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.
Grab a silverfox valve body (raises shift points and makes it manual 1/2/3+4 shifts if you want to hold it) I really liked mine before getting a lentech trans. The shift kits for them aods are nightmares
...and a good name converter in the 3000rpm rated range (will be more like actual 2500rpm with sub 300hp). If sticking with a lockup trans/converter I would go 2500rpm for 150hp, 3500rpm for 250hp, 4500rpm for 350hp. Way more power in 1st and 2nd... then 3/4 locks out the converter anyways. I have an edge non-lockup converter built to 3600rpm stall and it flashes to 2800rpm and I still get 22-25mpg cruising.
Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4
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