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Mustang rear sway bar in a box Panther

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    Mustang rear sway bar in a box Panther

    Those dang police rear sway bars are hard to find, and the Addco 324 is kinda shit, so I went looking elsewhere.
    79-04 Mustangs use a similar style of rear sway bar as boxes, bolted straight to the lower control arms.

    I didn't expect to get this far with my idea...

    So, here's a 21mm (or maybe it's 13/16") Mustang GT sway bar bolted into my '85 Grand Marquis, using some simple brackets. This is mainly a proof of concept, and my execution has some room for improvement.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20250828_135700.jpg
Views:	212
Size:	2.42 MB
ID:	1406992

    Brackets are just 10mm flat bar, 2x13mm holes for the control arms (87mm center to center), and 2x11mm holes for the sway bar (101mm center to center). I don't own a drill press, so I had a local machinist do them for me. I rounded the edges and with some paint they look super professional!

    Mounting is angled so the bar doesn't hang ridiculously low. These ended up being angled a bit too much, as it caused a minor clearance issue (more on that below).

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20250828_124906.jpg
Views:	199
Size:	2.75 MB
ID:	1406993

    The plates are mounted on the inside edge of the lower control arms, throughbolted with some sleeves to keep the arms from collapsing. That might also have some slight stiffening effect on the controls arms, which is welcome.

    There's loads of clearance to almost everything, including the diff cover and the ground, duh. My mistake was angling it up a bit too high, as the shock absorber nuts contact the sway bar when the suspension is nearing full droop. Obviously full droop is a somewhat rare occurrence in normal driving conditions, but it bugs me nonetheless. I did check the clearance at full droop with my test bracket made from sheetmetal, but the bolt holes must've been that extra bit sloppy.

    As it sits, the middle of the sway bar is at about the same height as the bottom of the differential, I could've definitely sacrificed a bit of ground clearance to clear the shock nuts. But I do have something in mind that might help with it.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20250828_135824.jpg
Views:	197
Size:	1.94 MB
ID:	1406994


    Obviously the anti-sway bar performs nicely, significantly reducing body roll & improving handling without compromising the comfort and ride quality. The less dramatic weight transfer also makes steering into corners seem a bit more "direct", but it also kinda accentuates the vague steering. Overall the car feels much more balanced. Of course these are still 2-ton boats with a lot of weight to throw around, mine's on stock replacement shocks and original springs, but I like it that way.

    The point of trying out Mustang parts is the availability, used and aftermarket. I'm way under a 100€ into this, everything included.
    I reckon there's plenty of take-offs and junkyard picking for 79-04 Mustangs in the States, plus there's several aftermarket options to pick from.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel

    #2
    Heck yeah man. It looks good.
    1990 Country Squire - under restoration
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

    GMN Box Panther History
    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
    Box Panther Production Numbers

    Comment


      #3
      Id have honestly assumed the spacing between the two lower arms would be different enough for the bar to not get close to touching. So it looks like the width is right, only the hole spacing differs? Couple of plates or maybe even just a drill makes that a dead simple fix.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

      Comment


        #4
        Good idea with the brackets. I never knew that the Mustang bar would work with some modification

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
          Id have honestly assumed the spacing between the two lower arms would be different enough for the bar to not get close to touching. So it looks like the width is right, only the hole spacing differs? Couple of plates or maybe even just a drill makes that a dead simple fix.
          My initial idea was to mount the bar directly to the side of the control arms, but there would've been significantly less clearance to the shocks and definitely cause binding up on drooping suspension. None of the bolt holes in the control arms lined up either, it would've required drilling 4 new holes per control arm. I am a bit apprehensive of accurately drilling several large holes into critical suspension components. Especially when you can't just pop by the parts store to buy new arms.

          With the brackets, I did not have to modify the control arms or the sway bar in any way.


          The drop brackets do obviously drop the sway bar mounting ears out of line from between the pivot points of lower control arms, but the mounting ears are still vertically in line with the control arm pivot points, so there should not be any undue stress from mounting it that way. Other than what the wonky design already causes.
          But in terms of suspension dynamics this type of sway bar mounting is far from ideal anyways.
          1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
          2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel

          Comment


            #6
            Cool.

            if you feel a difference it obviously works. Good alternative to something that’s hard to find.
            ~David~

            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

            Originally posted by ootdega
            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

            Originally posted by gadget73
            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




            Comment


              #7
              Good stuff!
              '87 Slicktop Steelside Wagon

              Comment


                #8
                Nice work!



                87 Ford LTD Crown Victoria Country Squire Station Wagon. 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, Boxed LCA's, Explorer Intake, 65mm T-body, 'Stang Cam, 'Stang Air tube, K&N, GT-40X Heads, 1" Spacer, 1 5/8 BBK's, 2.5" Pypes X-pipe w/high flow cats, Single Chamber Thunderbolts, B&M 'vertor, Po-lice Swaybars.

                91 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park Station Wagon. K-Code, 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, MK VII LSC Engine, 'Stang Upper Intake, Stang Air Tube, K&N, 65 mm T-Body, 'Stang Headers, 'Stang Cat Pipe,'Stang Torque Convertor, 2 Chamber Thunderbolts.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Heck yea
                  03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                  02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                  08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Pirelli Winter Cinturato 2 235/55-17
                  12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Arquemann View Post
                    Those dang police rear sway bars are hard to find, and the Addco 324 is kinda shit, so I went looking elsewhere.
                    79-04 Mustangs use a similar style of rear sway bar as boxes, bolted straight to the lower control arms.

                    I didn't expect to get this far with my idea...

                    So, here's a 21mm (or maybe it's 13/16") Mustang GT sway bar bolted into my '85 Grand Marquis, using some simple brackets. This is mainly a proof of concept, and my execution has some room for improvement.

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20250828_135700.jpg
Views:	212
Size:	2.42 MB
ID:	1406992

                    Brackets are just 10mm flat bar, 2x13mm holes for the control arms (87mm center to center), and 2x11mm holes for the sway bar (101mm center to center). I don't own a drill press, so I had a local machinist do them for me. I rounded the edges and with some paint they look super professional!

                    Mounting is angled so the bar doesn't hang ridiculously low. These ended up being angled a bit too much, as it caused a minor clearance issue (more on that below).

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20250828_124906.jpg
Views:	199
Size:	2.75 MB
ID:	1406993

                    The plates are mounted on the inside edge of the lower control arms, throughbolted with some sleeves to keep the arms from collapsing. That might also have some slight stiffening effect on the controls arms, which is welcome.

                    There's loads of clearance to almost everything, including the diff cover and the ground, duh. My mistake was angling it up a bit too high, as the shock absorber nuts contact the sway bar when the suspension is nearing full droop. Obviously full droop is a somewhat rare occurrence in normal driving conditions, but it bugs me nonetheless. I did check the clearance at full droop with my test bracket made from sheetmetal, but the bolt holes must've been that extra bit sloppy.

                    As it sits, the middle of the sway bar is at about the same height as the bottom of the differential, I could've definitely sacrificed a bit of ground clearance to clear the shock nuts. But I do have something in mind that might help with it.

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20250828_135824.jpg
Views:	197
Size:	1.94 MB
ID:	1406994


                    Obviously the anti-sway bar performs nicely, significantly reducing body roll & improving handling without compromising the comfort and ride quality. The less dramatic weight transfer also makes steering into corners seem a bit more "direct", but it also kinda accentuates the vague steering. Overall the car feels much more balanced. Of course these are still 2-ton boats with a lot of weight to throw around, mine's on stock replacement shocks and original springs, but I like it that way.

                    The point of trying out Mustang parts is the availability, used and aftermarket. I'm way under a 100€ into this, everything included.
                    I reckon there's plenty of take-offs and junkyard picking for 79-04 Mustangs in the States, plus there's several aftermarket options to pick from.
                    Very interested... what specific car did yours come from i'm trying to make my own!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by JJ10x10 View Post

                      Very interested... what specific car did yours come from i'm trying to make my own!
                      I don't know, guy I bought it off of had it laying around for years.
                      From my understanding all 79-04 rear sway bars should be the same general shape and fit the same (excluding IRS models ofc).

                      https://lmr.com/products/Mustang-Sway-Bar-Size-Guide
                      1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                      2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Well guys i did it following Arquemanns directions. I used a 1999 mustang GT sway bar that is about 26mm thick. I cut 2 quarter inch steel plates and drilled 4 holes in them and then bolted it up. Its easy you all should do it! Total cost was maybe $130usd
                        You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 3 photos.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by JJ10x10 View Post
                          Well guys i did it following Arquemanns directions. I used a 1999 mustang GT sway bar that is about 26mm thick. I cut 2 quarter inch steel plates and drilled 4 holes in them and then bolted it up. Its easy you all should do it! Total cost was maybe $130usd
                          Hell yeah dude! Glad to see my idea was good enough to be worth copying
                          1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                          2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel

                          Comment


                            #14
                            still just amazed that the width is right, I never would have expected that but its awesome that there is now a practical option for this.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                            Comment

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