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simplifying shock removal?

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    #16
    ahaha, yeah just cut those bolts.
    "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
    1985 GMC 1500

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      #17
      Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
      And... these are easier on most cars, right? Just not the old wagons?
      Probably. A lot of vehicles (leaf-sprung vehicles, anyway) seem to have used eyelet-style rear upper shock mounts, which has to be lots easier to service, as lower eyelet mounts are fairly easy to remove (especially if a convenient bolt design is used instead of the stupid stud-with-a-spacer affair I removed from my P72). And I'm pretty sure some coil-sprung vehicles (Fox-bodies and '60s Rancheros, anyway) have convenient access panels to get to the rear upper shock mount. The Panther setup, while it sort of works, is just plain retarded in this regard.
      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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        #18
        Fox cars just stick the top of the shock right up into the trunk. Takes like 15 minutes a side to do shocks on a Mark VII.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
          I'd not heard of ratcheting box wrenches before. Went to harbor freight, and, I don't think I could have done the rear shocks without one. It was a lifesaver.
          Told you.
          Originally posted by slymer
          that would be the problem for me... lack of proper tools. I need to put a set of ratcheting box-end wrenches on my wish list though. *puts on to-do list*
          The set I have is from harbor freight and it's the multicolored set. They have lasted 5 years no problem, other than the anodizing wearing off on some of the more often-used ones. IIRC, it cost in the neighborhood of $20. Very very much worth it
          Originally posted by gadget73
          There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
          91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
          93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
          Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
          Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
          95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

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            #20
            Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
            (can't reach with a normal-length wrench IMO)
            I didn't have a problem, I don't think. Maybe my forearms are small enough to get in there.
            Originally posted by gadget73
            There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
            91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
            93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
            Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
            Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
            95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
              Fox cars just stick the top of the shock right up into the trunk. Takes like 15 minutes a side to do shocks on a Mark VII.
              That sounds much better. Enough space to do the snap-the-stud-off routine, then?

              Originally posted by 91waggin View Post
              I didn't have a problem, I don't think. Maybe my forearms are small enough to get in there.
              Yeah, small arms have got to help. Mine are that awkward combination of too big around to fit places, too short to reach things, and not strong enough to compensate for the other shortcomings. :p

              I'm told some people (those who are skinny and have long arms) can actually do a brake job without getting their gut filthy! You can imagine what I looked like at my job where I'd sometimes spend 3/4 of my day at a pipe threading machine. :banana:
              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                I'm told some people (those who are skinny and have long arms) can actually do a brake job without getting their gut filthy! You can imagine what I looked like at my job where I'd sometimes spend 3/4 of my day at a pipe threading machine. :banana:
                Well I can't do a brake job without getting EVERYTHING dirty.
                Originally posted by gadget73
                There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                  That sounds much better. Enough space to do the snap-the-stud-off routine, then?
                  If you really need to, but being in the trunk the threaded bits don't tend to rust, so its probably not required. I seem to remember about a foot of clearance above the top of the shocks. It took me longer to get my fat ass in the trunk than it did to buzz the nuts off with the impact gun. Probably could have done it with a ratchet without much trouble as well.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Yup! set of 7 on sale now for $20, normally just $25 anyway I think.
                    I'm sure the set at lowes for $60, made in USA, is better built. But I haven't had too much from HF break on me just yet.

                    I didn't need the extra long ones, but, I wouldn't say I had no problem. My wrist was definitely sore by the end of it!

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Sounds like you had less trouble than I did! I think I ended up throwing a nonratcheting wrench in there and turning the shock body with a pipe wrench.
                      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                      Comment


                        #26
                        any other general bits of advice so as to not kill ones self replacing shock absorbers?
                        sigpic


                        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

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                          #27
                          Self-replacing shock absorbers? :confused:
                          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                            Self-replacing shock absorbers? :confused:
                            I mean so I don't kill myself when I'm replacing them.
                            sigpic


                            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                            Comment


                              #29
                              @ both of us


                              But yeah, I expect you're highly unlikely to die during the procedure. Even if you do pull the rear springs, they come out easily by hand just by tilting the axle from side to side with a jack.
                              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                              Comment


                                #30
                                What is the best spot to jack the center of the car to get the whole of the front or rear off of the ground? So I'm not doing a side at a time (going to the other side with the jack while the other side is on a jackstand doesnt seem safe to me but I could be wrong)
                                sigpic


                                - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                                - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                                - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                                Comment

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