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Late-model steering box upgrade

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    #16
    Those are the wrong fittings you posted a link to, above, Michael. The fitting that goes into the steering box looks like the hose ends that go into the box on your current set-up (o-ring at the end). Except the other side has a male AN end.

    I also used one of those fittings (with the o-ring removed), at the pump. There is a large hex head fitting that threads into the pump. The hose threads into that fitting. I simply removed the hose, and threaded in one of those PS box fittings, minus the o-ring. Then I had it tig welded.

    Then I had AN fittings at pump and box, and can use AN lines.

    For future reference, Scott, all of those fittings are available through Summit. You can also buy AN ends and hose, meant for power steering applications, that you can assemble at home.

    So, in the future, if you get the itch to do custom PS lines, it will still be possible, despite the fact that you don't have a local hydraulics shop!
    **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
    **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
    **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
    **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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      #17
      Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
      And the '79-'91 steering box apparently doesn't have a torsion bar at all: http://www.p71interceptor.com/steeri...gacy/pictures/

      ... so a stock box-body relies entirely on lots of caster for its on-center feel.
      And as for a heavy car it probably had like 3 degrees so old people wouldn't bitch about the steering wheel not turning itself.
      1992 CVLX. 5.0 HO/GT40P/T5/3.73/trak-lok with bolt ons. 02 front CVPI setup, rear HPP setup, CVPI shocks around, F250 radiator, e-fans, and the power of 3G. 15.92@89mph, 2.4 60', 4700' elevation (5500' DA) with 3.08 open rear and the old oil chugging 289. RIP.

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        #18
        Originally posted by P72Ford View Post
        Those are the wrong fittings you posted a link to, above, Michael. The fitting that goes into the steering box looks like the hose ends that go into the box on your current set-up (o-ring at the end).
        Ah, so more like this one? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-648030/?rtype=10


        Originally posted by Crownvicman289 View Post
        And as for a heavy car it probably had like 3 degrees so old people wouldn't bitch about the steering wheel not turning itself.
        And that's why no one should ever align their Panther to the stock 3-3.5 degree caster setting. Or was it more like 2-3 degrees? All I know is that the advice I took was to give it as much caster as possible while maintaining approximately zero camber.
        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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          #19
          I run almost zero caster. My car drives awesome.
          1989 Grand Marquis LS
          flat black, 650 double pumper, random cam, hei, stealth intake, Police front springs, Wagon rear, Police rear bar, wagon front ,exploder wheels, 205/60-15 fronts 275/60-15 rears, 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" offroad x pipe, Eclipse front bucket seats, Custom floor shifter, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft and daily driven. 16.77@83mph

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            #20
            Shaft end-clamp idea (maybe)

            Back sort-of-on-topic, I was looking at the end of the wagon's steering shaft, and it occurred to me that it might be possible to modify a box-body steering shaft end clamp thing with a file instead of going to the trouble of finding a late-model end clamp. If the diameter and splining are otherwise the same, a little file-work could be a nice alternative for folks without local self-service wrecking yards if the full-service places aren't willing to remove an end clamp for them.
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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