3G alt installed -- '90 GM

[1987cp]

Update/correction: I got the back of the alternator off. Guessing I can do it again now that I've done it once. :p

It looks like the middle ring and rectifier assembly are all soldered together with the stator windings.

Now I just need to find how I can bench-test the regulator and rectifier assemblies here at home. :waiting:

[gadget73]

rectifier you'd check with an ohm meter, or ideally one with a diode check function. SHould be open one way, and read some resistance the other way. On a diode check, pribably maybe 1/2 volt one way, and infinite the other. If it reads zero both ways, its shorted.

[1987cp]

Any idea what points I would use to contact the thing? The stator winding seems to be soldered to the rectifier in about four places.

[gadget73]

you got me man, I've never had one of those apart to tell you the truth. There should be 3 rectifiers, probably they all tie to a common point, and individually each goes to a different part of the stator. If thats not how its actually put together internally, hell if I know.

[1987cp]

Well, I did some prodding about with the diode function on my cheapie GE multimeter, and I seem to have continuity everywhere in every direction, including between the output post and the body of the alternator. So I thought as a next step I'd remove the rectifier assembly and test it separately from the rest of the thing. Slight problem: my soldering iron apparently doesn't get hot enough to melt the solder that was used to attach the rectifier to the stator coils. I don't think cutting the rectifier loose would be a good idea, as it may necessitate replacing the coils even if they're good at present, so that means I may need to look for a higher-powered soldering tool ..........

[gadget73]

100w gun ought to do it. I have a harbor frieght one that gets plenty hot, to the point that it will melt it's own tips in half if I'm not real careful. I've barely used it and already cooked through 2.

[91waggin]

100w gun ought to do it. I have a harbor frieght one that gets plenty hot, to the point that it will melt it's own tips in half if I'm not real careful. I've barely used it and already cooked through 2.

Lolz. Been there done that. Yay Harbor freight!

[gadget73]

I ought to use it on my variac, that way I can crank down the voltage.

[1987cp]

That's a neat thought. Same thing as a router speed control box? 'cause I've got one of them...

[gadget73]

well, a variac is more properly an autotransformer, not sure what a router speed control box uses. Most likely an autotransformer since triacs (light dimmers) make for some funky wave forms that motors don't always like. Either will work for a soldering iron though.

[82LTDQS]

Is there a way to do this with the "one wire hook up?" Does it have to be a special made alternator or do you just hook the green (on/off) wire right to the positive?

[gadget73]

Tie the green/red to a switched ignition source. You can tie it to the coil if you want. Yellow wire on the regulator plug goes to the output stud on the back of the alternator, heavy cable from output stud to the battery + or the starter relay, whichever is easier for you.

[82LTDQS]

Just splice it into the on/off for the coil???? Im gona convert to HEI soon. will this cause any problems?

[gadget73]

shouldn't cause any issues. As long as its a switched + you're good. If you have the stock Ford dash, you can just use the original greed/red wire that would be tied to the old external voltage regulator so you retain the idiot light function.