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This is so the light will play a part in the charging system. When the car is running, there is positive on both sides of the light. Turning it off. If it is on when the car is running, this will indicate if you have a problem with your alternator with shorts to ground/or the case (this doesn't mean that just because the light is off doesn't mean that your alternator is working properly!!!). The first set up uses a stator wire. The amp light or charge light is a fail safe so something doesn't burn up.
The second way completely eliminates the use of the light. And if a short to ground should occur, sparks will probably fly. Since the light is a load device, and with no load, all of the current the battery has will try to shoot through that wire and ultimately damage something. That's just what I'm gathering.
Dont anoyone bother trying to install it that way. It wont work.
Just run it the way we're sure it works. Run it with the charge light. You're not gonna have one when you swap clusters, so move it somewhere else, or else the battery won't charge. Or you could put a fixed resistor set a 7ohms in the wiring that used to hold the light, if you don't want it. You need a resistance or you make a short circuit.
I have a 10 amp fuse instead of a resistor already connected just to be safe...and some extra fuses. BTW the thing is installed already but please tell me about the resistors purpose and why 7 ohms?
7 ohms is about the same resistance value of the light bulb in the factory cluster. They had a second resistor wired in parallel in case the bulb blew it had a higher resistance value, about .5Kohms (it could still kinda charge), but since you won't have that in there either, that's why I had mentioned this resistor.
Don't really need it. I've installed 3g alternators without any of the factory wiring or idiot lights before. On that car, the red/green tapped into the same wire we fed the ignition system from. I haven't heard anything about it not charging and thats been a couple years now.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
I wanted to tap into the ignition system because that would have been the closest keyed power but my dad advised against it... I am having no problems with the green/red wire ran to a keyed power at all. so all is good.
I ended up using an existing NON USED keyed power I found lying around the drivers side engine bay in a red/yellow wire that was used for carbureted cars...so I am actually not robbing power from anything!
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