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    question about switches

    Some probably know of the LED light strips I plan to install, discussed in the other thread. I am wondering about switches - I just need very basic information. You guys probably already also know that I'm not terribly experienced with wiring, and am learning as I go.


    What type of connector/terminal do I need to attach to poles on a switch like this? When I see switches they mostly have these blade looking connectors - Is that the standard? Is there a standard?




    Basically any information you can give me about switches. I understand how they work, but I don't know what makes a good one and what makes one shit.
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    If the switch works that is a good switch, and if it does not work that is a bad switch. One pole gets the power from the source and the other ends goes to the things you plan to power up. You would need a female spade connector to attach wire to the switch. That particular diagram shows an LED in the tip of the switch, all that means is that the switch gets a ground and that ground is located on the side of the body of the switch.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Originally posted by ootdega
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

    Originally posted by gadget73
    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




    Comment


      #3
      thanks, needed mainly to know about the spade connector. they come in a bunch of different sizes? not just wire gauges, but spade sizes
      sigpic


      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

      Comment


        #4
        Pretty sure 1/4" is the starndard connector size.
        2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
        1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
        1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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          #5
          typical is 1/4" from everything I've installed. Some are a bit smaller (3/16" I think). I've not seen many different than that other than the 1/8" and 1/4" spades on speakers.

          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

          Originally posted by gadget73
          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

          Originally posted by dmccaig
          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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