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120VAC/15Amp Outlet?

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    #1

    120VAC/15Amp Outlet?

    Hi, I wanted to ask how feasible it would be to install a single 110-120VAC 15Amp outlet inside my 1986 Mercury Grand Marquis?

    I was thinking it would run off the alternator, and it would have an interlock that only allowed it to produce power when the motor was running.

    Reason I ask is because it'd be handy to run an electric tire pump if I blow a flat out of nowhere, or need to recharge my phone, or want to run a microwave in the passenger seat for long road trips...etc...
    Tags: None
    #2
    you need a 12v dc to 120v ac power inverter

    the higher the wattage the more power it will draw from the battery and draw on the charging system.......going to need a fairly large one if you plan on running a microwave, at least 1000 watts

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

    Comment

      #3
      I'll look into finding one. Thanks.

      Comment

        #4
        Get a bigger alternator too.


        '93 T-bird
        '03 Silverado ECSB

        Missed:
        '88 Mark VII
        '86 CV

        Comment

          #5
          Is bigger better, or should I worry about overloading the charging system?

          Comment

            #6
            Look around the site for the 3G upgrade. You need to swap out the alternator and part of the charge harness including a fuse.
            That is a 135 amp alternator (3G) opposed to the 65 amp alternator(2G) you probably have now. The 135 amp could put out 135X12 or 1,600 watts at max. That is equiv to 13 amps @ 120V. Now those are maximums without inefficiency factors and necessary car loads being considered.

            You likely have the 100 amp unit if you have a cvpi or a car with heated windshield.
            03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
            02 SL500 Silver Arrow
            08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
            12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

            Comment

              #7
              the size rating of the alternator just tells you the max it can put out. It doesn't mean its putting that out all the time. It won't overcharge anything.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

              Comment

                #8
                Running a 110 Volt AC powered, Home Depot "Husky" brand 2 gallon air compressor, from a 400 Watt inverter. During compressor start, maximum inverter output Amps are needed for about one full second. After that it runs the inverter about 1/2 loaded to refill the tank. This inverter was in my S10 powered through 7 feet of 10 gauge wiring to the battery, but now has its own dedicated 20 Amp circuit at the trunk fuse panel. The compressor builds up 125 PSI and shuts off. This setup can be run with the vehicle OFF.

                The 400 Watt inverter can be powered from the Accessory 12 Volt outlet inside the car, and is plenty capable of powering even the largest 110 Volt AC laptop computer brick, while charging a couple of cell phones and a GPS from wall-socket adapters.

                The 1,000 Watt inverter (2,000 Watt starting capacity) mounted next to the 400 will run the compressor and other loads at the same time, 75 feet away on heavy extension cords. It is fed by a 110 Amp circuit breaker pushing a 1 gauge wire from battery to trunk. Policy is to have car running before switching this big inverter ON, keep engine running, and shut engine OFF after inverter is OFF. It takes fairly hefty 12 Volt Amps to feed a 1,000 Watt AC inverter, at least a 12 Volt 100 Amp fused circuit and associated wiring is called for.

                In my case, both inverters and compressor are mounted in the trunk, with a battery switch to insure zero power drain during down time. Electrical outlets in the interior can be fed from either inverter by swapping 110 Volt plugs in the trunk.

                IP

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