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Do I have to vacuum out the old AC refridgerent if I am replacing with new parts?

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    Do I have to vacuum out the old AC refridgerent if I am replacing with new parts?

    Hello again,

    I am trying to start replacing my AC compressor, drier, evaporator and condenser in the 1991 GM. My system has not had AC for a couple of years. The compressor does not turn on and I checked the fuse at the fuse box. It is the original system (1991), so I want to replace as much as I can.
    I pressed in the release valves on both the lo and hi sides and nothing comes out.

    Can I safely remove the hoses at the compressor and the fittings at the drier and condenser without tearing off my hand due to a pressurize system?

    Is there any way to check the pressure without the compressor running?

    What if the hoses ""accidently rip"" and I take the pressure off that way.


    If I have to vacuum it all out, how do I do that with a compressor that don't work?

    I plan on replacing the hoses with new. After the new parts are in, I plan on taking it to a professional to charge it up.

    My THANKS AGAIN,
    Mike
    90 Colony Park LS with GT 40 heads and intake. HO cam, 65 MM TB, 67 MM EGR spacer. Has a 75 MM Pro Flow mass air sensor. Borla XS mufflers. 3L55. Shift kit, 2000 stall Tq convertor...Bilstein shocks, front and rear sway bars.
    90 Colony Park LS 64,000 miles all original. 3L55 tow package....front and rear sway bars.
    91 Grand Marquis GS....HO motor..Bilstein shocks poly bushings and police swaybars. This one handles the best.
    70 Torino Squire with M code 351 Cleveland 3.00 has Magnaflow mufflers. Hidden headlights and power windows. All original

    #2
    Oh boy! Not knowing anything about AC and working on it is not a good idea. Some systems have a low psi switch that cuts out the compressor.

    1.The compressor is a pump that moves the refrigerant from one side to the other.

    2. If you have no pressure at the service ports, there is no pressure in the system.

    3. Moisture is a refrigeration systems enemy.

    4. A two stage vacuum pump is used to evacuate the system not the compressor.

    5. If your system has been open to the atmosphere you HAVE moisture in the system, including the refrigerant oil.

    6. Dry nitrogen should be used to blow thru the system, check for leaks after repair and suck up small amounts of moisturize.

    7. Air and refrigerant do not mix. Air in a system effectively reduces the condenser size and causes acid to be formed as the moisture in the air mixes with the oil.

    I am a Refrigeration tech by trade.

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
    Last edited by kodiak; 03-16-2014, 04:58 PM.
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      #3
      What he said.
      Maintaining Grandma's 84 CFI GM for her

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        #4
        BTW, refrigerant has a pressure/temperature relationship. A certain pressure equals a certain temperature. R134a at 70*F equals 71.2 psig. It won't "blow" your hand off BUT you can get severe freeze burns.

        Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
        Last edited by kodiak; 03-16-2014, 06:24 PM.
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          #5
          Safety 1st!
          '79 Continental Town Car
          '90 Crown Victoria LTD
          '94 Crown Victoria

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            #6
            X2 on what Kodak said! I have my done by friend who knows what he's doing. He's an HVAC guy by trade and bought a nice little compressor and manifold gauges off amazon with an adaptor kit.. Good hook up R134 and nitrogen so a good friend to have.. If you're hell bent on DIY just do your homework and be safe


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              #7
              well, if you have pushed in the pressure ports and nothing came out, there is no pressure in the system. At that point its just plumbing. But yeah, the system needs to be evacuated and all that otherwise its not going to work right. Air and moisture in the system will give you bad results. If you want to fix it and save yourself some money, my advice would be to assemble the system and then take it to a shop for the evacuation and charge.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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