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r134a conversion-- receiver/drier replacement and around 3# 134a right?

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    #1

    r134a conversion-- receiver/drier replacement and around 3# 134a right?

    Just checkin'

    Doing a 134a conversion on the 1989 wagon. 1990 was already done.
    Ordered a new receiver/drier, the adapter terminals, AND it turned out the top/upper rubber hose that comes from the compressor to the condenser was leaking at both ends! No wonder I'm low. So replacing that too.
    And around 3# 134a?
    The system is mostly leaked down anyway from that hose. I'm just going to open it up, although I feel mildly guilty about the environment over whatever might be left in there.
    Tags: None
    #2
    my 88 took just under 2#... I'd get 3 just in case. You can always take an un-opened can back.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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      #3
      I'm doing it the right way since the system is opened, and paying the $100 to get it recharged with the machine that puts a vacuum on it (if I were still at a shop, I could do it for free... but not worth working there for $10/hr just for a free a/c recharge)
      I know we always just went by weight, not pressure... there was a scale and you dial in how many pounds you want it to add after it's pulled a vacuum.

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        #4
        Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
        I'm doing it the right way since the system is opened, and paying the $100 to get it recharged with the machine that puts a vacuum on it (if I were still at a shop, I could do it for free... but not worth working there for $10/hr just for a free a/c recharge)
        I know we always just went by weight, not pressure... there was a scale and you dial in how many pounds you want it to add after it's pulled a vacuum.
        Correct. Weight is best for 134a since the charge amount is so much lower (to get same delta T) than for R12.
        95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
        96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
        77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
        98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
        90 Grand Marquis, stock

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          #5
          If you've got one leaky hose, I might change all of them. No point in doing this multiple times. Do the orifice tube while you're at it.


          R134a charge is something around 80-85% R12 charge.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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