You can also use an analog meter to pull the codes. Key off codes work too if you jumper the right terminals on the diagnostic port. Now where's my write-up?
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I decided to invest in a scan tool and drive my car to get the code. But it would help if you can find the write-up to pulling codes with a paperclip that would be much appricated.Comment
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scan tool wont help a no crank condition.
there is a solenoid on the starter also mostlikely.
sounds like you need to replace the starter to me. hit it with a hammer while someone else tries to start the car.
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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I have always done the KOER test so not sure if it works with anything else. All you have to do is take a paperclip or piece of wire and stick it into the top right terminal of the bigger block and then the other end to that small terminal, the diagram will show you. Engine has to be at operating temperature for it to work properly. So just stick the paper clip in and start it. It'll throw codes by flashes of the check engine light.
Heres the diagram and a list of trouble codes. Hope it helps http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/
But this obviously Isn't gonna help you if it's a no crank situation anyway. I'd say starter or solenoid for that. And I agree with having someone hit it with a hammer while you crank it, seems to work pretty much every time I've ever had to do it.Last edited by Pretty much broke; 10-25-2014, 11:58 AM.Current cars:
1989 Crown Victoria LTD wagon, 94,872 miles
1990 Volvo 240 DL 318,513 miles
I've tried foreign cars but I always come back to Ford in the end.
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Check to make sure the starter cable is tight at the starter! Just last month I thought my starter crapped out, just clicked from the solenoid, came to find that the cable wiggled loose.Comment
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As I said what killed my car was a bad negative battery cable now I wait for the scan tool to arrive so that I can get the code and I will know what I need to do. Thanks for the advice guys I really appreciate it.Comment
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I got my Scan tol and got a code 94 so now the fun is gonna be determing is the transmission issue a serious one and fixing the diverter valve to the emission system and yes I have to have it on the car due to test each year. So that is the latest on my car saga.Comment
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Thats a smog pump related code. There are no transmission codes with an AOD. There is nothing electronic in there. Code scans will not tell you why the car does not start. The computer is just not that advanced.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Gadget73 I solved the no start issue as it was a bad negative cable so thanks for telling me I just have a bad diverter valve problem that I will have a closer look.Comment
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