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    1/4 panel resurection

    Well, as you all know buy now my drivers qurder panel was hit, i fixed it for now but got a new 1/4 panel from the wreckers, But all isent good yet, there is a little bit of bad new's concerning the new 1/4. While they where takeing it off they picked up the car with the loader, and the car slid down and hit the post on the loader makeing a big dent in it but i know a guy who can probley fix it without being able to tell it was dented, but its going to cost me, i payed 200 for the qurder but they told me to drop by and they will refund me some of the damages they did to it,

    After the accedent: (i have no pics of the full damage, beacuse i started fixing it before i thaght about it,



    After some repair work:


    The Temperary fix: I know it look's like shit but its better then before,


    The New qurder with the big dent ill have it fixed before i start swappinf them over


    #2
    Just fix the metal thats on the car. It'll be more work to change the whole panel out than its really worth. Besides, that other panel looks rustier than whats on the car already.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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      #3
      Yeah dude, fix the existing panel, and you won't have to worry about a seam!

      Besides, it doesnt look like it would be too hard to shrink that dent out!
      1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
      Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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        #4
        well my original panel actualy is pretty screwd up at the dent, would be alot of messin around to try and get it back nice and straight again

        Comment


          #5
          dude just cut out a partial panel, line it up and weld it...cut your damaged 1/4, make a template, make cut the panel to be welded larger than the piece you cut out........i have replaced a few full 1/4's.......trust me it sucks

          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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            #6
            Replacing that entire 1/4 panel would be much more work and $$$$ than it would be worth.Especially when you would be swapping on another allready dented one,doesn't make any sense.If you had a near perfect,dent/rust free 1/4 panel,then maybe it would be worth the work to change it out,but thats a big maybe,depending on how screwed up it actually is.You would be surprised at some of the collision disfigurements I have cleaned up,with nothing more than a Hammer/Dolly set and a Slide Hammer.

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              #7
              You don't even need to use that whole thing. Where the dent is isn't a big deal. I don't see why you'd replace the whole side.
              '89 Ford LTD Crown Vic - '92 Ford F-150 Custom -
              '95 Ford Bronco XL -

              sigpic :rebel:

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                #8
                that qurder was nice when i first baught it then when the wreckers was cutting it off the car it they picked up the car with the loader and the car slid down and hit, i was going to replace the whole thing so i could hide the seam under the vynel and would still have a nice straight car, and i wouldent have to mess around trying to make the qurder straight again, but now ill have to, the 1/4 i got was nearly rust free, just a little on the very bottom at the back

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                  #9
                  dude, just cut it out and template it... unless you just got nothing but time on your hands...

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                    #10
                    Dude just take from the front of the fuel door back. A shit ton of welding on the side of the quarter and will take forever but will be easier then doing that whole thing. If you do it anyway it is cool, I am looking forward to this build up mang!
                    2000 Mustang GT "Blondie", 2000 CVPI "Sargent Crusty"

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                      #11
                      Dude, Dude, Dude, DUDE!!! I just wanted to say dude like everyone else.

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                        #12
                        definitely just fix the metal that is on the car now. Why incurr the extra time and money to change the whole thing? The bottom of your replacement panel appears to be quite rusty as it is. Piece in parts from the other panel and get it as straight as possible. Then just prep it really well and call in julius cheeser.
                        **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                        **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                        **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                        **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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                          #13
                          Dude. Seriously, I took off the front driver's side quarter panel off my brother's Civic cuz it was dented from a little mishap and I banged it back out. Taking the panel off and putting it back on sucked. I don't know how similar your job would be compared to mine, but all I know is it wasn't fun trying to take that bitch off. Maybe it was just hard for me cuz I had the engine and drivetrain components getting in my way. Anyways, good luck with whatever you decide, can't wait to see how it comes out.
                          88 Town Car (wrecked, for sale)
                          Walker OEM duals with muffler deletes

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                            #14
                            You can't just unbolt the rear quarters on a car. These are seamed on at the factory. You need to cut them off and weld them back on, which is a huge pain. However, some bodyshops nowadays are using "glue" to hold replacement panels on. I believe it is a two part glue, but I'm not sure how effective it is.
                            **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                            **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                            **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                            **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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                              #15
                              that is just surface rust it is not actualy rusted thru, here are 2 more pics, started takeing the trim off of it and the the vynel so i can start trimming it, im only using the skin, not the back braceing and everything if thats what you think im doing, it wont be hard, ive done work like that before, the reason why im not going to use the old one is beacuse i dont want the whole thing loaded up with filler.

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