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Por15 vs Rust Encapsulator

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    Por15 vs Rust Encapsulator

    So I'm thinking about undercoating the car this summer, and I'm debating on which one to use. I have heard good and bad things about both of them, like the Por15 needs a topcoat, and that the Rust Encapsulator isn't all the great if left without a topcoat. Although the Rust Encapsulator is easier to apply (just spray bomb it) the por15 seems more durable.

    So what say you.....Por15 or Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator
    8
    Por15
    0%
    6
    Rust Encapsulator
    0%
    2
    Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
    New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

    #2
    Por 15 doesn't need a topcoat, especially if it's going to be under your car where the sun don't shine. But undercoating an entire car with por 15, without a lift will not be fun.
    2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
    2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
    2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
    1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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      #3
      Neither need a topcoat really, but you cannot leave them exposed to the sun or they turn funky colors and stuff. They're meant for underbody areas where you don't need to look at it, or under paint where you won't see it. The roof of my car is getting done with the Eastwood stuff because its already paid for, and then vinyl is going over it.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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        #4
        I'd do the por15. Rust encapsulator only really protects rusted areas. the por15 will help out where you have good metal too, and will leave your car all one colour underneath.

        85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
        160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
        waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

        06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

        Comment


          #5
          i use rust encapsulator on rust spots after they are cleaned up, then i cover the whole underside of the car with eastwood rubberized undercoating

          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by johnunit View Post
            I'd do the por15. Rust encapsulator only really protects rusted areas. the por15 will help out where you have good metal too, and will leave your car all one colour underneath.
            Do you have references?

            Comment


              #7
              If you opt to go with por15 DO NOT use any solvents to clean the metal prior to painting it. If you do use some solvent, you will have to slap on por15 metal prep first.

              solvents = pealing por15 in year or two, sometimes a lot faster.

              If you are spraying it: you WILL need a respirator (as in outside fresh air source, completely sealed mask). I know two guys who ended up in the hospital when they decided to spray rather than brush it on. Now, they just need to get a whiff of por 15 and they have difficulty breathing.

              Alex.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by CheeseSteakJim View Post
                Do you have references?
                just various cars I've seen with por15 coating the underside, a couple of which have been through a half dozen canadian winters.

                I've heard that por15 supposedly doesn't stick to unrusted metal, but I've seen decent results from just coating the entire floorpan and frame in por15.

                85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by johnunit View Post

                  I've heard that por15 supposedly doesn't stick to unrusted metal,
                  This. You really need to rough it up if you want it to stick, It loves rustly metal but bare metal and paint it doesn't always love.
                  2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                  2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                  2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                  1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by GM_Guy View Post
                    If you opt to go with por15 DO NOT use any solvents to clean the metal prior to painting it. If you do use some solvent, you will have to slap on por15 metal prep first.

                    solvents = pealing por15 in year or two, sometimes a lot faster.
                    Usually when someone has an issue with POR_15 it's because they didn't follow the directions or did a poor prep job. It's like painting a car body without doing any body or prep work first. And then saying the paint is the reason the paint job looks like crap.

                    To get good results that will last a long time with the POR-15 you should be using their "Marine Clean" and "Metal ready" before you apply any POR-15.



                    Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
                    This. You really need to rough it up if you want it to stick, It loves rustly metal but bare metal and paint it doesn't always love.
                    You don't need to rough up the surface. You just need to use the "Metal ready" to etch it. If you do a good prep job and follow directions you shouldn't have any adhesion problems.

                    And you are not suppose to paint POR-15 over old paint. You need to strip any paint off before applying the POR-15.





                    And as far as Eastwood's rust encapsulator goes. I've got over $300 worth of it, and the Extreme Chassis paint sitting on my shelf that I bought to use on my 54. Well last fall I decided to use some on my dad's minivan rusty rear 1/4 panel. I cleaned up the 1/4 where I going to paint it, removed the loose rust, cleaned it again, painted it with the rust encapsulator and then the extreme chassis black paint. I just wanted to stop the rust from getting any worse over the winter because I'm going to be replacing the 1/4 section sometime this summer. Well within a month of painting it there was rust coming thru the paint!! So there is no way I'll be using any of this on my truck!!

                    I've had good luck with POR-15 in the past so I'm going with it on my truck. And I also plan to coat the entire body of the truck with it too before I paint the truck.




                    Doing the entire underside of an assembled car with POR-15 would be a miserable job. But done right the POR-15 will last much longer then the rust encapsulator will.



                    Ok I'm done babbling I'm out of here.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
                      Por 15 doesn't need a topcoat, especially if it's going to be under your car where the sun don't shine. But undercoating an entire car with por 15, without a lift will not be fun.

                      F'n werd!!! That's exactly what I did last Saturday. Doubled up vinyl gloves and a thick long sleeved shirt didn't stop the POR15 from coating my right hand and most of my forearm. A couple warm baths got rid of most of it, but I still have it on my fingernails (if only goth [emo in other regions] was still en vogue). Though it beats spray bombing it. I'm afraid of what those vapors contain.



                      Packman

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by packman View Post
                        F'n werd!!! That's exactly what I did last Saturday. Doubled up vinyl gloves and a thick long sleeved shirt didn't stop the POR15 from coating my right hand and most of my forearm. A couple warm baths got rid of most of it, but I still have it on my fingernails (if only goth [emo in other regions] was still en vogue). Though it beats spray bombing it. I'm afraid of what those vapors contain.



                        Packman
                        Man I thought just doing my trunk was bad! I could never imagine the whole floor.
                        2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                        2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                        2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                        1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I missed some spots above the fuel tank, above the driveshaft, and trans. We'll see if it sticks. The floor pan still had paint on it. Some rust on the pass. side, more rust on the driver's side with a couple holes. I will indeed do the trunk by the time fall hits or sometime after I get the rear in.


                          Packman

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by packman View Post
                            I missed some spots above the fuel tank, above the driveshaft, and trans. We'll see if it sticks. The floor pan still had paint on it. Some rust on the pass. side, more rust on the driver's side with a couple holes. I will indeed do the trunk by the time fall hits or sometime after I get the rear in.


                            Packman
                            Just don't blame the paint if it doesn't stick!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              We painted the entire underside of the '67 with POR15 as well as the interior floor pans. I also coated my transmission jack in it with only a minor wax & grease remover rubdown, and it hasn't come off yet after several times of being bathed in transmission fluid and gear oil, and several times of removing both manual and automatic transmissions.

                              The first time I used the Rust Encapsulator was on Thain's car's roof, and I seriously hope it's not as bad as you say it is Fordman...

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