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    Surviving the Winter?

    I am thinking about downsizing to "just" two vehicles, our Volvo, and my 87 Grand Marquis I "inherited" from my grandpa. I drove the GMQ through one winter a few years back and I could tell it took a toll on the chassis and underside. I was wondering if you who use your cars daily had any tips for trying to make your cars survive the salt and grime.

    I was thinking of wiring wheeling / blasting / cleaning everything underneath and then PORing the underside. However I have noticed some rust creeping up in places like the seams where the door skins fold over the door shell. I know enough about body work to know the rust must be removed and / or encapsulated sooner rather than later, and it is very hard to get rid of once it is entrenched. I feel like with the design of the car (old style - hidden seams, limited rust proofing, poor drainage, etc) that I might be fighting a losing battle and I should forget about using it as a winter car and just keep it covered in my shop (where it spends most of its time sitting) during the winter.

    Thoughts?
    2009 Ford Escape Manual (Hers)
    2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Lifted (His)
    1987 Mercury Grand Marquis (Was Grandpa's)
    1974 IH 100 4x4 (In Pieces)

    #2
    Rizzo (AKA_Rizzo, 97cv, whatever) talked about putting waste motor oil in an insect sprayer and shooting that all over the underside, especially inside the rocker panels. Just a thought.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
      Rizzo (AKA_Rizzo, 97cv, whatever) talked about putting waste motor oil in an insect sprayer and shooting that all over the underside, especially inside the rocker panels. Just a thought.
      I did remember reading something about that, especially in Canada (?) using either an off the shelf product or some kind of diesel / oil mix to shoot in to crevices. I wouldn't say I wouldn't do it but it would be garaged and washed regularly during the winter so I would think that might get messy.
      2009 Ford Escape Manual (Hers)
      2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Lifted (His)
      1987 Mercury Grand Marquis (Was Grandpa's)
      1974 IH 100 4x4 (In Pieces)

      Comment


        #4
        Iirc truckstops used to do that, wonder if it's true?

        Pete
        Originally posted by gadget73
        For other types of inquiry, more information is required. Please press 4 to speak to a representative who can help you with your question. This call may be monitored for quality assurance purposes.


        2003 Grand Marquis Ultimate, the "Stealth Bomber": http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Grand-Marquis
        1991 S-10, 'Bulldog', 2.5l 5 speed: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...375#post698375
        1985 Town Car, 'Faded Glory', gone but not forgotten. 84/87/91/97 MGMs too.

        Comment


          #5
          That'd be convenient, just wheel your car into the local PETRO travel center and ask them to spray down your undercarriage? Maybe?
          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

          Comment


            #6
            Here in Canada we have various places that spray rust inhibiting oils in/under your car. I have my cars done yearly in the late fall. Holes do get drilled in key places to get access to blind hollow areas (ie: rocker panels, door a-frame), oil gets sprayed into doors, onto the underside of everypanel, underneath the entire car, into the rockers, trunk lid, hood seams, etc. Firewall, axles, exhaust, wheels don't get sprayed (just overspray). Takes a little over an hour per car.
            Then go for a drive outside the city cause your car will smoke like hell as the oil burns off the exhaust. And for about a week after you'll see smoke come out of the wheelwells when sitting at an extended stop light as some more oil drips onto the exhaust.

            It works. You just need to look in a junkyard for proof. You always know which car was oiled and which where left to be. Even ziebart (which gets a bad rap these days as being to hard/chips/rusts underneath) puts a big halt to the rot that occurs. Not so easy anymore to find in junkyards, but back in the 80's it was also evident when you had a ziebarted car infront of you.

            Cost is about a hundred bucks for a passenger car.
            A couple of the more well known places;


            Proven rust protection for all vehicles, in all seasons and in all weather. Oil Gard Formula 2 NO DRIP is the clean alternative to messy oil sprays.

            Rust, Proofing, Oil , Spray, Protection, Winterize, Application, Fast, Convenience, Drive Thru,


            Alex.
            Last edited by GM_Guy; 10-18-2010, 11:04 AM.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
              Rizzo (AKA_Rizzo, 97cv, whatever) talked about putting waste motor oil in an insect sprayer and shooting that all over the underside, especially inside the rocker panels. Just a thought.
              I believe he learned that from me. He wanted to smear the rockers with axle grease, and I pointed out that cars rust from the inside out. You need to get the oil in between the seams to prevent the rust.

              My Dad has been doing it for years, and I was religious with the red box, and now my truck.

              Just did the truck last week.

              Took the taillights out, and made an apparatus to get the oil all over the rear wheel houses, and down in the seems. I also did the bed cross members, the frame and crossmembers, the doors and tailgate, rockers, cab cross members, cab corners, and hit the front suspension a little. My front fenders have nothing to oil, and neither does the front bumper, etc.

              I don't spary the floors entirely, because I usually rinse them every time I wash the vehcile in the winter (at least once a week).

              Plus, its hard to get the oil thin enough to spray and still stick. But, if you thin it, spray it, and race the car down a dirt back road, you have a better chance.

              I also keep the frame and under carriages of my vehicles really clean, and painted (do that during the spring/ summer months).
              **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
              **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
              **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
              **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

              Comment


                #8
                :lol: I suppose with your technique, it helps to know where to find a dirt road in the vicinity? :p
                2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yeah, but I live in an area where they're not hard to find.

                  I know where the nearest dirt roads are, because, you know...

                  I've been pinched for trespassing in those areas before.
                  Last edited by P72Ford; 10-18-2010, 02:28 PM.
                  **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                  **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                  **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                  **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

                  Comment


                    #10
                    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      [threadjack]

                      Question....do you guys just take it to the car wash to rinse off in the winter? Because I know we disconnect our garden hose and shut off the valve.

                      [/threadjack]
                      Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
                      New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by hemihotrod402 View Post
                        [threadjack]

                        Question....do you guys just take it to the car wash to rinse off in the winter? Because I know we disconnect our garden hose and shut off the valve.

                        [/threadjack]
                        Main thing I do is try to shoot the water up underneath to get salt brine off. I am actually less worried about paint and trim and more worried about the underside because it is generally less protected than painted surfaces.
                        2009 Ford Escape Manual (Hers)
                        2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Lifted (His)
                        1987 Mercury Grand Marquis (Was Grandpa's)
                        1974 IH 100 4x4 (In Pieces)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          if there is salt on the road...i do not drive my panther on it. since you have two vehicles maybe you can drive the volvo in the winter time/when salt's on the road and save the grand marq for better driving conditions? just a suggestion.

                          salt freaks me out haha
                          -Phil

                          sigpic

                          +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                          +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Andrew, my father has a shop where we wash our cars. The hose is inside, and we bring it out to wash, then roll it back up and put it inside.

                            I wash the underside thoroughly, spraying a heavy duty soap underneath with an agricultural sprayer, letting it sit, and then rinsing.
                            **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                            **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                            **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                            **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by GM_Guy View Post
                              Here in Canada we have various places that spray rust inhibiting oils in/under your car. I have my cars done yearly in the late fall. Holes do get drilled in key places to get access to blind hollow areas (ie: rocker panels, door a-frame), oil gets sprayed into doors, onto the underside of everypanel, underneath the entire car, into the rockers, trunk lid, hood seams, etc. Firewall, axles, exhaust, wheels don't get sprayed (just overspray). Takes a little over an hour per car.
                              Then go for a drive outside the city cause your car will smoke like hell as the oil burns off the exhaust. And for about a week after you'll see smoke come out of the wheelwells when sitting at an extended stop light as some more oil drips onto the exhaust.

                              It works. You just need to look in a junkyard for proof. You always know which car was oiled and which where left to be. Even ziebart (which gets a bad rap these days as being to hard/chips/rusts underneath) puts a big halt to the rot that occurs. Not so easy anymore to find in junkyards, but back in the 80's it was also evident when you had a ziebarted car infront of you.

                              Cost is about a hundred bucks for a passenger car.
                              A couple of the more well known places;


                              Proven rust protection for all vehicles, in all seasons and in all weather. Oil Gard Formula 2 NO DRIP is the clean alternative to messy oil sprays.

                              Rust, Proofing, Oil , Spray, Protection, Winterize, Application, Fast, Convenience, Drive Thru,


                              Alex.
                              i do the same. i use krown rust control. it makes a huge difference. i think there are locations in the states.

                              1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
                              1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
                              1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
                              2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
                              2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

                              Comment

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