Gladys.....

[1987cp]

If all you want to do is change the cam and intake, no machine work would be required. Just the usual cam-change gaskets, often available as a set (front cover, water pump, valve cover, intake manifold, and carburetor), and of course the cam and lifters. Additional parts that could be considered optional if you're on a tight budget but should probably be replaced on a high-mileage engine would include upgraded valvesprings (usually around $70) and a double-roller timing set (mine was $25 at AutoZone).

Correction from my above post: Crane's 364211 is actually a hydraulic roller. Let's see..... Edelbrock's regular Performer cam felt awfully good in torquelover's car, not a huge stump-puller, but it sure gathered speed in a humongous hurry .... Summit's K4400 cam and lifter kit appears to have identical specs for less money, about $100 for the whole kit (cam and lifters).

[351wcrayz]

I have been a little bit o thinking, and have came to the conclusion that with the new job, to save me money, time, etc and go buy a new block, heads, intake manifold, etc...and jus drop in a fresh 351w.

The block below is from Summit-$3,699
and is rated @ 500hp, and I am sure with the new heads, etc I will be able to achieve more...
Tell me what you think of the new parts....

Specs-
$3,699-351w Engine Block-----------500hp

$664-Edelbrock Victor jr. Cylinder Heads

60cc Combustion Chamber
210cc Intake Runner
75cc Exhaust Runner

$265--Edelbrock Victor jr. Intake Manifold
RPM Basic Operating Range-3,500/7,500

Heres some pics...

[cld783]

I have been a little bit o thinking, and have came to the conclusion that with the new job, to save me money, time, etc and go buy a new block, heads, intake manifold, etc...and jus drop in a fresh 351w.

The block below is from Summit-$3,699
and is rated @ 500hp, and I am sure with the new heads, etc I will be able to achieve more...
Tell me what you think of the new parts....

Specs-
$3,699-351w Engine Block-----------500hp

$664-Edelbrock Victor jr. Cylinder Heads

60cc Combustion Chamber
210cc Intake Runner
75cc Exhaust Runner

$265--Edelbrock Victor jr. Intake Manifold
RPM Basic Operating Range-3,500/7,500

Heres some pics...

overkill.. you will smoke your tranny/rear end and probably everything else in between. be prepared to spend quite a bit more than that if thats the route you choose.

[1987cp]

Woah, now you're going totally the other direction. What happened to the plans for the low-end torque monster?

Keep in mind that with that combo you'll probably need a megabuck torque converter with at least 3,000rpm nominal stall speed. That's assuming you use a cam matched to that combo. With a small cam you'll just be over-headed and over-inducted and the motor will fall flat on its face.

Also keep in mind that you can build a FAR more practical street 351 using stock parts, and spend maybe $2500 max for the whole engine, versus close to 4 grand just for an race shortblock.

[P72Ford]

You need two heads. 665 is the price for just one. Might as well go with way better AFR 165's or 185's.

That intake manifold is way wrong, and so are the heads. Its totally impractical to not have the engine come alive until 3500 (in a 4000# car). Longtubes won't work; several people here will tell you all about their trials with them.

Listen to 1987cp. The torquey route (with moderate power) is the way to go with a heavy car. To even consider the 3500-7500 powerband you'd need to be looking at a different gearset before anything.

[351wcrayz]

The reasoning behind just starting w/ a new block, etc is that mine has around 350k-400k logged on it an is prolly getting tired. But if you guys have a better, more cost effective way around that issue, fire away.

And nate, I am going to switch the AOD out for a 5speed and a lower gears, not sure the specifics on the latter as of right now, and as I posted earlier, a LIST would HELP.

Thanks-
Wes

[1987cp]

You need two heads. 665 is the price for just one. Might as well go with way better AFR 165's or 185's.

I think Mr. Land Yacht paid Turbo's pal Gerry about $650 total for his BHP-ported E7s. Crazy good flow numbers at moderate valve lift, and you don't have to deal with the hassles of aluminum heads. The car's not tuned yet, but I rode in it at our last Detroit meet, and it's got tons of potential.

[torquelover]

You would be wise to look at proven power packages for power in a more useable range unless you definitely change rearend ratio (3:73+) and go high stall (3k+) or manual trans. And then you'll probably need a new driveshaft. I am all for a manual trans P72 with strong power at 7k. Make sure the block you buy has smaller main journals to support the RPM, and your valvetrain is bulletproof. Just plan everything out financially with a proper timeline. Look at my sig, there's well over $6k there over time, and my combo is a lot milder than what you're planning.

[P72Ford]

I think Mr. Land Yacht paid Turbo's pal Gerry about $650 total for his BHP-ported E7s. Crazy good flow numbers at moderate valve lift, and you don't have to deal with the hassles of aluminum heads. The car's not tuned yet, but I rode in it at our last Detroit meet, and it's got tons of potential.

Or that. I mean, he was planning on spending 1300+ already, s I just figured I'd throw the AFR option out there.

In reality, if I were him, I'd go budget build all the way. The ported E7's are a very viable option for such a package.

[351wcrayz]

Got the head back from the machine shop today-$20
New Timing chain/new Gears and Gasket $38

Still need new head haskets and a center head gasket-$40, slowly but surely its coming together, should be together by the end of next week......More updates later Mangs-


-Wes

[351wcrayz]

New Update-

Prepped all surfaces that touch the gaskets
Fished out the missing lifter particle (roughly a 1/4" chunk)

Should have the vic running as soon as I pick up the remaining gaskets

-Wes

[351wcrayz]

Here is the Tachometer I want.....

[torquelover]

Black on white, very nice. What's it look like at night?

[351wcrayz]

Not for sure TL, if it has white thatd be fine, altho I MIGHT switch the buld for a blue bulb, or might drill another small section out and put one in front of the other, lightening the hue of blue and adding visibility.....I will let ya'll know when I get it...And it is gonna be a dash mounted feature, as I have found a rather small crack in my dash pad, and the mounting surface will cover it.....SNEE-KEE........

[interceptor1985]

by the way...

LONG TUBE HEADERS WILL NOT FIT.

And if you plan on doing that I'd get a prepared AOD or C6 or somethng. but a new tranny is a MUST.....and new rear gears also.