gotta have that cop chip.
Isn't the OSS in the side of the trans casing anyway, not the output housing?
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4R70W - Change the harness connector. It changes from 3 12v points to 1 12v point. Easy for you to rewire.
Output shaft housing? I got you. I'll send you one. If you need it. And it might be in pretty colors just because.
You can't mount it to the side of the case because the direct drive drum (i think) has the holes punched in it for the OSS. You'd have to change out the internals.
Better off with a 4R70W swap.
And make sure to get a cop one. lol.
-ryan s.
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ABS sensors are 108 tooth and besides... in a turn, the PCM would think the trans was slipping if I did that.
I could also swap in a 4r70w, but then I would have to get the proper yoke and driveshaft (if the drive shaft/trans is a different length... slip yoke for sure).
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I wonder if it wouldn't be easier to just stab a 4R70w in there.
Honestly if I'd realized it would insist on that OSS nonsense, I'd have gone for a different year harness. I had no idea it even existed until it got to the point of wiring in the trans, and I found that extra sensor.
No chance you could do something as BS as installing one ABS sensor, and feeding the OSS input from the ABS wheel sensor is there?
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ok... The Vic is tuned... but it needs an OSS before the trans will work right. Either that or an aftermarket trans controller (too spensive). Looking at getting a hot rod shop (plenty of them around me) to make a bolt-on tone ring and bracket for the sensor to attach to the pinion flange and diff housing. Essentially something like this 40 tooth one from Jags That Run. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...ctor-Diff.html
If anyone can find something I can buy or if anyone wants to make one for me... that would be epic. I'd definitely pay ya for your time and materials. It must bolt to the pinion flange and be easily mounted (no drilling). It must clear the drive shaft mount as well. It can be one piece though. I'm not afraid of dropping the drive shaft to get access to the flange for mounting purposes.
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MGM will drive till it dies (or is wrecked) unless I take the stereo out and put it in something else and someone pays me over $2000 for it, leaks and all.
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That's too bad since that's a nice Lincoln. I hope it finds a good home. What are you gonna do with the MGM?
Packman
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I may be looking to sell the Lincoln. All offers welcome... but I want some serious change for it. $5000 ballpark. I've had the rear axle rebuilt, the AC refreshed, the ATC tweaked and functional (panel will only blow cold air... I think it's a Lincoln thing). I still have the mechanical fan and a fan shroud for it (but this would require relocating the coolant tank I'm currently using - 90 TC shroud and tank FTW - might take the one I have in the 88 and shove it in the Mark if needed).
If anyone here seriously wants this one (93 Mustang HO under the hood with 4.10 to 4.56 rear gears (not sure, haven't looked at the gears) which makes the speedo mark about 7 high at 70mph) let me know. I'm looking to sell my truck and the Mark and get myself a newer/better truck.
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took the red neck intake snorkel out. It works too well and I can't hold enough engine vacuum pressure to keep the AC running over 50mph. Without the scoop, it will run 80mph and keep things frosty.
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Originally posted by marquisman View Postlooks good! did you wire your brake light at the brake switch? iirc, if you wire it by the tail lights, the brake light will flash with the signal light, that was tapped.
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looks good! did you wire your brake light at the brake switch? iirc, if you wire it by the tail lights, the brake light will flash with the signal light, that was tapped.
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if i ever own a car new enough for a third brake light, i want to do somethin similar. i would take a bright LED strip light and and mount it on the bottom of the glass, edge to edge. would be like them new escalades.
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get ready for some more awesome of work in progress...
The 3rd brake light on the Mark is getting re-done. The parts got here a day earlier than expected, so I've managed to assemble all the stuff in the brake light housing. I just have yet to install it in the car. There will be no mistaking the stopping now. Pics up to the initial test:
The mutilated reflectors (don't need those any more)
The diffuser
The general idea
The epoxy is set
The other side
Not for automotive use my ass... just needs a 12V regulator ala one fat resistor (1 watt) and a 12V zener diode (5 watt)
Used some speed clips to help keep the housing together (it was glued together, but it has clips too... might as well use the clips)
THE TEST
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