P72Ford's White Box

[P72Ford]

How do I increase the accel. pump shot?

I put the car into storage yesterday, but it still needs to be moved further into the shop and covered up. Maybe tonight.

Someone asked about the front fenders. They are bubbling a little bit. I'd prefer some mint fenders rather than having these fixed. I'm not fixing them right now, but I figured I'd start looking now, because I know these are not going to be easy to find.

Regarding the ride quality. All I know is, I hit a speed bump at like 15 mph, and my friend told me he could here the suspension jarring from 100 ft away. It doesn't ride as smoothly as my truck. I understand the intent of the suspension, and I will be sure to test out the handling capabilities the first chance I get.

I went to NY this weekend to pick up a set of DART heads for a certain 383, and the guy that they came from happened to have a pretty neat '63 ful size chevy. With a NA small block the car runs 10.80s at 130ish. And its a 5 spd.

It really confirmed my decision to make this car a stick. But probably not until next year.

[Grand Marquis GT]

You going to do the cool chrome Hurst shifter with white ball like your truck has?

Please say yes.

[Pirate]

How do I increase the accel. pump shot?

Follow the linkage from the accelerator pump to the throttle shaft. On the throttle shaft bracket, you should see a small plastic 'ramp' thingie. I believe Holley uses a similar bracket, so you should be able to purchase a pump cam kit for a Holley; it comes with different-colored ramps of varying heights and slopes. This is the kit in question:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-20-12/?rtype=10

I would start off with the most aggressive cam in the bunch, the brown one.

This at least gets you started, and you can experiment with the various cams, but I'd start with the brown one, and then work your way down.

So far as the discharge nozzle squirter thingie is concerned....I'd start with the 'cam' first, and then worry about the nozzle later.

You should be able to find this kit locally.

Of course, keep in mind this is not to be construed as professional advice, it is merely a matter of opinion, and once again should NOT be interpreted as professional advice, should someone decide to swoop in and sue me for slander.

However, before you rush off to buy something, look at your carb first and verify that I'm right....


Concerning the springs/suspension: If this is going to be a long-term project car....I'd look to getting some custom springs made, something in a progressive variety....what shocks are on this car, again?

[P72Ford]

Thanks for the info, Larry. I'll look into it.

Tonight I'll be moving the car into position and covering it. I'm using the winter to devise a plan of action for the car.

I do have some updated pictures on my camera, too.

You going to do the cool chrome Hurst shifter with white ball like your truck has?

Please say yes.

Tom.

Hurst Competition variety shifters are amongst my favorites. But, even if I can't use one of their shifters on the transmission I go with, the car will get an appropriately* sized chrome Hurst stick.

And... like I've said many, many times. There is only one type of knob that belongs on a stick shifter. And thats a white round one. T handles, skulls, goofy colored balls, etc have no place.

I have to say, the stick shift project is going to be a spendy one, but I intend on doing it up right. It'll probably wait until next winter; my Dad seems pretty interested, so I think he and I will tackle it. Usually our joint efforts lead to good results.

*Appropriate means that the stick will be proportionate to the car and interior. Not too long, definitely not too short, but just right. And I am not a center console type of guy either. Just a plain tunnel with an appropriate boot will do.

[1987cp]

Consider checking your local library for one of the old Holley tuning books. Some of the tech is now thought to be outdated by some people (like the "always use a small dual-plane manifold on a street car", for example), but there's still lots of good info - like how to change pump cams.

[Pesty351]

Hurst Competition variety shifters are amongst my favorites. But, even if I can't use one of their shifters on the transmission I go with, the car will get an appropriately* sized chrome Hurst stick.

And... like I've said many, many times. There is only one type of knob that belongs on a stick shifter. And thats a white round one. T handles, skulls, goofy colored balls, etc have no place.

What like this?

[P72Ford]

I like your set-up, but the stick is a little short... and the knob isn't white! I'll probably use a stick very similar to the one in my truck. I like the layback.

I didn't get to move the car last night because I was busy helping a friend with his boat. But I should get to it tonight.

In other news... I'm really not a fan of the way the throttle and TV cables have to run with the BG carb. They are slightly kicked to the side because of the shape of the base plate. I may try and make it work, but I'm actually thinking of going to a regular old Holley.

I also briefly looked it over for the accel. pump cams, but I didn't see them. I'll do better tonight.

I looked more at transmissions, and further realized the expense of such a project. I may make a few short term AOD upgrades to hold me over.

For manual transmissions, I am considering the TKOs, a transmission that McLeod hasn't yet released (the M800), or a T56. My spidey sense says the tunnel will need to be cut for the T56. The TKOs are a little tough because of the 3 internal shift rails. And there are supposed to be significant 2-3 shift gremlins. I like what I am reading about the M800, but I want to make sure it isn't a turd. If it came to the TKO, I like the 500 first gear, but I'd rather have the 600 OD gear.

If I went with a Viper spec T56, I'd need to go to 4.30s or 4.56s to even be able to use 6th on the highway.

[P72Ford]

Also.

I am thinking about the fuel system, guys, and I need some thoughts.

The engine will be carbed, and I need the fuel system to be able to be adapted for a bigger engine/ more power down the road. I'd like to use a good in line electric pump, filter, and AN lines. I want to run a return style system, and I was thinking of using Aeromotive components. The issue is... I can't have the pick up for the in line pump where it is now. The fuel has to be pulled up-hill; you're always supposed to gravity feed these pumps. I know I could sump the tank, but I'm afraid it'd leak.

Bulkhead fittings?

Mechanical pump, and modify a carbureted car pick up?

I was thinking of using a -8 feed, and a -6 return. Too big for my current combo?

Any and all thoughts are welcome, but remember I need 5-7 psi at the carb.

[Pesty351]

That picture is at a little bit of a funny angle it comes up and over the seat.

[Pirate]

Also.

I am thinking about the fuel system, guys, and I need some thoughts.

The engine will be carbed, and I need the fuel system to be able to be adapted for a bigger engine/ more power down the road. I'd like to use a good in line electric pump, filter, and AN lines. I want to run a return style system, and I was thinking of using Aeromotive components. The issue is... I can't have the pick up for the in line pump where it is now. The fuel has to be pulled up-hill; you're always supposed to gravity feed these pumps. I know I could sump the tank, but I'm afraid it'd leak.

Bulkhead fittings?

Mechanical pump, and modify a carbureted car pick up?

I was thinking of using a -8 feed, and a -6 return. Too big for my current combo?

Any and all thoughts are welcome, but remember I need 5-7 psi at the carb.

I'd just install a proper aftermarket fuel cell, in the trunk, with the sump going through the floor. This puts the fuel weight further behind the axle (better for weight transfer during a launch), lifts up the tank to allow a downhill-pickup arrangement, and also frees up room for exhaust and rear-end servicing....and do the NHRA-legal thing of putting a steel wall behind the back seat. If you're really picky, you might have Fuel Safe build you a fuel cell to utilize the factory outside fuel filler cap (they're located here in Oregon, not too far from me in Redmond) so you're not having to pop the trunk to fill up....or just a basic cell with a sending unit would work; ISSPRO out of Portland can build custom tube-type fuel sending units (superior to the lever-type, doesn't react to slosh) to match the Ford ohm-range of the stock fuel gauge....or just go aftermarket....

So far as the type of pump....I'd go electric.

Fuel-line size? Perfect. Room to grow, unless you're building something in the 1000-hp range....and I'm not sure the chassis will handle it. I have a thought as to how to address this, but this is for another time.

[P72Ford]

Cool.

If I don;t retain the factory fuel gauge, it isn't the end of the world. I could always put an AM gauge in the cluster. As it is, I'll probably go with AM gauges in place of the SWs, just because I have to buy a new temp gauge already anyway. And I;d rather have the more racy appearance of AM.

I think I know whats wrong with the carb, too. I read through a pdf version of the owner's manual. The accel pump cam/ linkage is loose and floppy with the throttle blades closed. The manual specifically says this should not be the case, so I'm thinking it needs some adjustment. I may remove the carb tonight, and bring it home for inspection/ cleaning. I'm also going to pick up a cam assortment. Everything I see says the Holley/ BG/ Demon are the same (4150 series).

[1987cp]

That doesn't sound good. Loose pump cam linkage ==> no pump shot when you need it, no? No wonder it stumbles all to heck. Obviously, if you still notice the stumble when you ease slowly into it, it'd likely have something else wrong as well ...

Not that I know jack from squat, but I'm actually with Pirate on concurring with you regarding an electric fuel pump. One reason is of course the fact that a mechanical pump forces singularly sucky line routing, forcing you to either mount the regulator on the engine or else have extra lines going back and forth from the engine to the inner fender. The other is the fact that I'm annoyed with all aftermarket mechanical pumps after having had to fix my Summit mechanical pump that'd decided to leak on me. I'm thinking 1/2" for the fuel lines, but opinions may vary (check sbftech.com to see what those guys are using for lines on their quicker cars).

Am I to take it that it's difficult to find 73-to-10-Ohm senders for aftermarket fuel cells?

[marquisman]

holley makes good in line fuel pumps.

[Pirate]

I think I know whats wrong with the carb, too. I read through a pdf version of the owner's manual. The accel pump cam/ linkage is loose and floppy with the throttle blades closed. The manual specifically says this should not be the case, so I'm thinking it needs some adjustment. I may remove the carb tonight, and bring it home for inspection/ cleaning. I'm also going to pick up a cam assortment. Everything I see says the Holley/ BG/ Demon are the same (4150 series).

Fascinating about the loose linkage. Was it that loose? It should be just barely nudging.

[P72Ford]

Its very loose. I don't even see the little cam thingy on there, either.

And I still think the timing is out, because it just does not want to start. Spring time worries, at this point.

So it looks like my plan here is evolving a little bit. At first I wasn't sure where I was going with the car, but now I am heavily leaning towards a street/ strip car. More of a strip car that I drive on the street But, I don't know how much of a strip car it will make, just yet.

I've been overthinking the fuel system, as I usually do, and come up with a plan. My main problem is that the trunk floor in these cars is not level; it slopes up towards the rear bumper, if memory serves me. And since the fuel cell sump should always face the rear to avoid starving the pump under hard launches... you see the issue. A rear facing sump does no good when its inclined up.

So, I will have to build a small wedge shaped 'stand' for the cell to make it level, and then cut the trunk floor for the sump. This way the fuel sender will read properly, and the sump will function as it is meant to.

I want a pump the moves plenty of fuel, is somewhat quiet, and looks good. I want to use all AN lines on the fuel system; clamped in sections of rubber just will not do.

I like Aeromotive stuff; does anyone have any experience? I know Holley carbed pumps are fairly loud (red and blue, not so much the black).

There are a couple Aeromotive offerings. I want to use an Aeromotive pump, filter, and regulator. Braided lines; and I will be anal about their rotuing and clamping, and there is a JAZ aluminum cell that seems to foot the bill (15 or 20 gallon).