The 1992 Grand Marquis

[86VickyLX]

I don't quite know. There isn't much to it, the EVO, the steering wheel speed sensor, I guess a tap into the VSS, and the controller itself. Unless its missing VSS signal, I couldn't guess what it may be. Unless its just not connected to the right wire in the harness, but I don't believe that stuff was messed with.

I need a diagram for that system so I can do some functional tests with the wiring and controller.

[sly]

I can get you the 93 diagram if you want.

[86VickyLX]

I can get you the 93 diagram if you want.

Please. And any functional tests if you can too! Our technical crap at work is laughable at best.

[gadget73]

thought you had the 92 EVTM ?

[sly]

There's a lot of stuff for diagnosis of the EVA. Up to 6 PDF's so far.

[sly]

There's a lot of stuff for diagnosis of the EVA. Up to 6 PDF's so far.

the whole batch here: http://www.grandmarq.net/sly/1993/
The rest is mainly wire testing.

[gadget73]

That looks about right from what I remember. If i had to lay a wager on the problem, its probably missing VSS input.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Mine groans and mumbles in the Towncar. I'm real tempted to un-do the mod, but I need some steels to put back in there. Tired of it sounding like cheap shoes on a wet floor every time I make a turn at slow speed.

Talk to the person who built it for you, if they're the same one who did this GMQ I'm sure they have some steels laying around. Another thing to consider is the thickness of the shims between the carrier and the last clutch, generally you want them as thick as they can be without having to beat the spiders in place, however they can be replaced with thinner ones to loosen up the whole thing some... Say you got .050 now, dropping down to .030 will make a difference, in a sense it will the happy medium between a tight 4-clutch and a tight 3-clutch. Of course if you used new clutches and steels to begin with then chances are you're already running .030 or .035 at most, meaning you pretty much have to fall back to 3 clutches per side. Maybe it can be tightened up a bit at the same time as well, now that you have some miles on the car chances are it could use it - you'll end up with a tight 3-clutch which should be "softer" than any 4-clutch setup.

Not any help on the GMQ's variable assist issue, never messed with that stuff. Kinda want to though, however that would likely require some GM parts unless someone knows of a Ford vehicle that was equipped with the variable assist AND hydroboost at the same time?

[86VickyLX]

Ivan did say that the barking around corners could be caused by too big of shims on the side gears. If you guys used new clutches it might be why.

[gadget73]

6 new clutches and 2 old ones. I remember beating those gears into place. Pretty sure we destroyed the brass punch in the process. Its too tight, whatever it is.

[86VickyLX]

6 new clutches and 2 old ones. I remember beating those gears into place. Pretty sure we destroyed the brass punch in the process. Its too tight, whatever it is.

Yeah that's why. Gotta reduce the shims if possible. F150 spring too? lol

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Yeah that's why. Gotta reduce the shims if possible. F150 spring too? lol

With new clutches chances are it already has the .030 shims in it which is as thin as they come. Thing is tho, these shims are not really needed for the diff's functionality, as they live between a clutch and the carrier and all clutches ARE indexed to the carrier so there's nearly zero motion between the two - thus the shims act as not much more than a spacer.

In any case, with a factory S-spring in there I'd suggest ditching the 2 used clutches and running just the new ones, should be able to actually keep the current arrangement and just pull the outer-most clutches and replace them with a pair of the thick (.050-.060) end shims - this will provide 6 friction surfaces (as opposed to 7 in the typical 4-clutch setup and 5 in the factory 3-clutch) and tighter action but without the ridiculous initial preload the car seems to be suffering from now. Happy medium more or less, but still a bit on the performance side.

If however that thing does indeed have an F150 spring... going back to full factory arrangement will probably be best.

[86VickyLX]

So I checked wiring for VSS. The ohm reading was 217 ohms. Which is pretty close to the vss that I have out of the car at 197 ohms. So VSS is hooked up. For shits and giggles I ohmed out the EVO solenoid... OL... I ohmed the other one 65kohms. So like I said before. I need a working EVO solenoid for a 1990 Lincoln TownCar. Who gots?

[gadget73]

Yeah that's why. Gotta reduce the shims if possible. F150 spring too? lol

no, after launching that mofo across the shop a couple times, we gave up. Also, we couldn't find it. its probably somewhere up there still.


The Mark VII has a stock traction lock rebuild with new clutches. it works silently, which is why I'm thinking going back to stock is the way to go if I can figure out which clutches are new and which are old.

anyway, EVO is OL directly on the solenoid, or through the wiring?

[86VickyLX]

no, after launching that mofo across the shop a couple times, we gave up. Also, we couldn't find it. its probably somewhere up there still.


The Mark VII has a stock traction lock rebuild with new clutches. it works silently, which is why I'm thinking going back to stock is the way to go if I can figure out which clutches are new and which are old.

anyway, EVO is OL directly on the solenoid, or through the wiring?

EVO solenoid directly OL.