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1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker
2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...
I cleaned up that ^ by making a piece to cover where the light goes.
I finally put the extra ash tray to good use, I changed the oil pan gasket over the weekend and put in an oil pressure gauge. I now have that and a volt gauge mounted to the ashtray.
It can still hold change and junk if I need it
This is how the dash looks at night(the gauges were in their temporary home, a Marauder gauge pod which actually almost fits)
1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker
2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...
Today I fixed the broken switch panel(thanks for the tip 87gtVIC) with some epoxy and studs.
I put in the new rear shocks and drop springs, I think I have to drop the front a bit more.
I used the TruCoils front springs listed in the suspension section and the front didn't drop that much so I may have to cut a bit.
I took off the hitch since after lowering the car it scraped on every driveway entrance and exit.
The car is now road trip ready aside from more cleaning tomorrow, I'll be going 3k+ in the next week.
1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker
2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...
Where the hell you driving? That's a lot of miles!
Halfway across the country then back, "Panther Nationals" in Branson, MO this will be my third year straight with a road trip like this(2012 Power Tour about 4k miles, 2013 also Panther Nationals in Branson).
1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker
2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...
Well, she made it
3000+ miles in 10 days.
When I changed the oil pan gasket, I noticed a large dent in the pan toward the rear and it is still leaking a bit(not as much as before but some, put in 1 quart during the trip) so I'm thinking the pan is distorted enough to have to be pulled and straightened or replaced.
Are all 5.0 oil pans the same shape or do I need one for a panther chassis?
Now with the idea of pulling the engine to do that, I go ahead and broaden the idea to putting in a different engine that I put together then drop in.
I just need a short block, I have the heads, intake, exhaust all sitting on a table.
1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker
2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...
How did you change the pan gasket? I've heard some people say that it can be done without pulling the engine. Is there enough room under the engine to slide the old one out and the new one in without jacking anything up?
1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car 2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles 2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles
Either yank the motor out, or you can remove the motor mount bolts and jack it up enough, then you can try to (I think) remove oil pump, then you have the clearance to pull the pan out. Cross member on frame is in the way and is not removeable.
-Nick M.
Columbia, SC
66 Squire, 89 Colony Park, 90 TC, 03 TC, 06 TC, 07 TC (2x)
03 BMW 540iT, 07 Toyota Tundra SR5 Dbl Cab/5.7 2WD
if the mounts are good, you can drop the pan and carefully snake the new gasket on... the trick is getting it down below the pickup to finish getting it on. you also have to hope that none of the old gasket falls in.
You can do it, but for all the cussing and difficulty, and the likelihood of it leaking and having other things that need attention anyway, you may as well yank the motor. I would not do a pan gasket in the car. Besides, if its leaky enough to need changing, you really need to degrease the engine bay anyhow.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
How did you change the pan gasket? I've heard some people say that it can be done without pulling the engine. Is there enough room under the engine to slide the old one out and the new one in without jacking anything up?
The old gasket came off in one piece(I could see where it had been leaking) and the surface was clean, the new gasket went in fine.
The engine did not have to be lifted, unbolted, removed since there is enough room for a gasket to be put in.
I know the pan is damaged, are all 5.0 pans the same?
1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker
2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...
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