Larisa "1982 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Bill Blass 2-Door

[DerekTheGreat]

Yea, wonder if he has any Crack Spackle?

[gadget73]

You really don't want to try and get in there to loosen the motor mount up. I suspect that won't make it go anyway. Try tweaking the ears on the engine bracket outward a bit. I seem to remember having to lovingly massage mine with a BFH to make it fit the first time I put the motor in.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Prybars, hammers, etc. - do what you gotta do, it can be a violent affair.

[86VickyLX]

I wonder if the dude in the first pic is a plumber...

No sadly I'm a mechanic. And I fucking hate pictures of my ass. lol

[knucklehead0202]

I'm a plumber and my ass doesn't hang out, so there's balance to be had here...

[MattsLincoln]

Update: Motor is finally in, sitting in the mounts and bolted in, i had an issue with the driver side upper mount bracket hitting into the motor mounts metal casing, so i took off the top bracket and trimmed off a little piece where it was getting held up on the lip of the top bracket, then it fit in there flush all the way down, trans is all hooked up and the bellhousing bolts are in, swapped out the oil dipsticks for an 86 panther oil dipstick, as 82 dipstick are different in width dimensions, radiator is back in, going to start painting the accessory brackets silver, the damn 90 fan shroud is being a bitch going in, i dont remember what way the clips on the bottom rad support went, gotta fuck around with it more, have to put in the new starter, upper intake, 86 tv cable, ECM and then it will be ready for startup. i also picked up on ebay a NOS fuel pump assembly for a 1982 lincoln mark vi to replace my old fuel pumps housing which one of the metal lines, i believe the return line is separating from the housing and causing my fuel leak. paid $65 for it but having an invoice from which warehouse and in the factory ford box was pretty cool, never used either, i will keep the pump from the old assembly since its a new carter fuel pump in case i need a spare one. put oil in the motor no leaks, motorcraft oil and filter(walmart is amazing for getting motorcraft filters pretty cheap). Sunday it should be all done, 86VickyLX will be down friday night.

[MattsLincoln]

Well another weekend and still the damn bill blass isn't done, motor and exhaust all put on start to crank it and find out cylinder 5 fuel injector is bad and stuck open which flooded cylinder 5 and hydrolocked the motor, drained out cylinder 5, disconnected the fuel pump relay and then sprayed starting fluid in the tb and the car fired up and ran for about 15 seconds until it abruptly stalled and lost all compression, distributor was not turning anymore and we think and are hoping that the cam sprocket and bolt on the timing chain came loose and dropped off, hoping its not a broken camshaft, im upset that we got so far and ran into a serious issue, now i have to tear down the front end of the motor and take the timing cover off and pray to god nothing bad happened. After all that hard work and determination . Though when it ran for the 15 seconds it ran pretty decent and quietly. Hoping the motor isnt fucked. I almost had a heart attack today.

[gadget73]

well, if the cam gear fell off, at least you're not likely to have damaged things. I had it happen at speed and it broke some lifters, which long-term wiped out the camshaft. If its got valve reliefs in the pistons, you should be OK there. If its flat top pistons, you may have problems.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Did you use red Loctite on the cam bolt, and did you torque it like your engine's life depends on it? I use the red Loctite on everything that can take a flame if it ever needs disassembly again, if a flame will do too much collateral damage then used the blue Loctite. Basically treat the bitch like she's an old rattly diesel or a Harley and stuff will likely not come apart on its own accord.

Still, that's some major bummer this happened. Even more so considering how much work it is to strip the front of the engine to investigate things... How do you know she lost all compression, did you check all cylinders? Cause as long as the valvetrain is intact there's always some cylinders with both valves closed regardless of camshaft position, those should check out alright if you do a leak-down test.

[86VickyLX]

Did you use red Loctite on the cam bolt, and did you torque it like your engine's life depends on it? I use the red Loctite on everything that can take a flame if it ever needs disassembly again, if a flame will do too much collateral damage then used the blue Loctite. Basically treat the bitch like she's an old rattly diesel or a Harley and stuff will likely not come apart on its own accord.

Still, that's some major bummer this happened. Even more so considering how much work it is to strip the front of the engine to investigate things... How do you know she lost all compression, did you check all cylinders? Cause as long as the valvetrain is intact there's always some cylinders with both valves closed regardless of camshaft position, those should check out alright if you do a leak-down test.

Yes red loctite was used and yes, it was torqued to spec. It just doesn't sound like it has much compression. When you crank a motor with good compression it has a certain sound. It sounds like if you did a compression test with a few spark plugs left in.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Yes red loctite was used and yes, it was torqued to spec. It just doesn't sound like it has much compression. When you crank a motor with good compression it has a certain sound. It sounds like if you did a compression test with a few spark plugs left in.

Yeah I didn't expect YOU to forget how that's done, but I wasn't sure if Matt knew that Loctite is needed there and how much to tighten the darn thing.


The sound you describe doesn't sound right, it's more or less along the lines of what I got out of that 4-banger with the cracked valve. When is the tear-down on this engine happening? Curious minds wanna know what went wrong with it...

[MattsLincoln]

well found out the problem, the camshaft dowel pin sheared off allowing the timing chain cam gear to spin freely on the camshaft without the camshaft turning. Cant find the right length replacement one all are showing for mechanical fuel pumps, probably going to have to take out the one from my old engine and install it, and this time apply loctite to the cam gear bolt as i couldn't see any loctite residue on the cam gear bolt which i was able to loosen without applying effort with a wrench, did not feel like it was torqued down to 45 ft lbs, came off easily with just a bump of my palm to release the bolt. john swears he put loctite on it and i thought i remember him doing so, but apparently not since there was no red reside from the loctite on the bolt, now when i put the cam gear bolt back in, is it ok to put red loctite on all of the threads of the bolt so this issue doesnt happen again ? Since no one makes replacement ones the right length im going to start saving some from junkyard sefi panthers.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

I bet ya that gear was semi-loose on the cam and fatigued the dowel till it sheared. Shouldn't matter if the dowel pin is for a mechanical fuel pump, the only difference is in the part that goes on the front of the cam gear - some EFI engines have just this goofy leg-like oil slinger, while the mech-pump engines (and some older EFIs) have a full on eccentric cup for the pump arm/lever to ride on. But the point is, the dowel pin is behind that, and whether it's the oil slinger or the eccentric cup there's always a small indexing tab that comes out the back of them and goes into the same hole in the cam gear the dowel sinks into from the back side (this also prevents said dowel from walking out and causing Cummins-KDP-type carnage). So if you should be okay with a dowel for a mech pump, plus if that is too long you can always shortent it as needed.

On the Loctite thing, yes, you can apply it to all threads of the bolt. I actually add some inside the cam as well (in the hole for the bolt I mean), this way it's practically guaranteed there will be Loctite where it matters. Do make sure the cam threads are not oily tho, Loctite doesn't stick to oily surfaces and thus cannot do its thing. Clean the cam threads with brake cleaner, then hit them with the air blow gun to dry them out nice and good.

[Bobcat]

I'm sure that the bolt will be completely coated in loctite and likely will never come apart ever again. Order a dowl pin new. It's not like it's some kind of special part that no other engine uses, there's only about a billion of these smalls blocks and there's been plenty of people with every problem possible.

Live and learn.

[MattsLincoln]

well after closer inspection from a previous photo, john and I came to the conclusion that the dowel pin was bad during assembly of the motor and we never inspected it, the dowel pins ends are supposed to be completely closed with no opening I verified this with pics online and my old motors dowel pin, if you look in the pic you can actually see that the dowel pin has an opening in the middle which is hollow throughout the pin, both sides of this dowel pin were open and not closed like factory which makes me think either the PO of this motor replaced it with the wrong dowel pin or it has sheared in the past, and the PO trimmed it down, thus not allowing the timing cam gear to seat enough of the dowel pin to begin with, with all the cranking we went through probably allowed it to work its way out and shear more. so I ordered a new dowel pin, I found out efi 302's and 351's use a 1.375 length dowel pin for the factory cams, which allow the use of the 1 piece eccentric, or no eccentric at all, hence why my old motor had an eccentric on the cam gear bolt.