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  • Bobcat
    replied
    That brush guard is going to look AWESOME. I wish I could find one very much the same. Keep us updated on how those Gabriel shocks are, most of us run KYBs.

    To the motor opinion, I think you're over estimating the power of the HO cam. I believe flat tops, 1.7s and the HO cam with decent heads has been proven to net something like 240 RWHP, make sure you do a shift kit too if you haven't already.

    Glad to see what you're doingh with the car! Looks great!

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  • ootdega
    replied
    Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Where did you pick up the fender trims? Never seen them for the older cars.
    You'd be surprised what you can find on Ebay. Oh, and I actually paid $37 plus $21 shipping. They've raised the price by about 3 bucks since then. The shipping cost is because it comes in a five foot tall box.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/RI-02-MEGMA8...662169?vxp=mtr

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  • 87gtVIC
    replied
    Where did you pick up the fender trims? Never seen them for the older cars.

    Leave a comment:


  • ootdega
    replied
    Originally posted by sly View Post
    meh... new subjects can be trying. I know I'm still learning stuff on this subject.
    That's true. I'm just overly hard on myself.


    But now that that discussion has reached a conclusion, I'll go ahead and log the other stuff I'll be doing. All of this stuff is sitting in a box in the corner right now, but once it warms up I'll get started on them.



    A pair of Gabriel Ultras for the front, which I should be able to install myself. They were $33 each and have a lifetime warranty.




    I got this brush guard for $30 in Boise. I need to push that dent out a little and I have a pretty solid idea on how to do it. I won't be putting it on until after I do the alternator converstion though, since I'm going to mount fog lights on it.

    I won't be able to use the side guards, since they're not as wide as the car (the thing fit in the trunk), so I'll just be going with the bull bar and coming up with some things to bolt onto it later. No idea how I'm gonna attach it, but when I do I'll try to make it as solid as possible so it'll do its job.




    And then there's these things. I got them to replace the chrome trim I screwed up sideswiping my grandma's car, but they weren't what I was expecting. They seem to be shaped to fit exactly over the outward flare on all four fenders. Pretty clever. The hardware bag came with clips and screws, but there aren't any holes for clips, so I'm guessing that since they're labeled for each corner individually even though they look identical, the screw holes on them line up with the holes already holding the trim in place. Also pretty clever. The set was $51 plus shipping.

    I'm thinking I'll just put these on over the top of the OEM trim, just because it protects the edge of the fenders. These'll just be some extra armor, if you can call it that. I don't know how they'll look yet because it's been too freakin COLD to go outside for more than a minute.
    Last edited by ootdega; 01-15-2015, 08:05 AM. Reason: Typo.

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  • sly
    replied
    meh... new subjects can be trying. I know I'm still learning stuff on this subject.

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  • ootdega
    replied
    Originally posted by ootdega View Post
    From what I can read and watch on the subject, it seems like it has more to do with the gear ratio than the pulley or snail size.
    I misread Sly's comment. He actually addresses my concerns about fuel economy before I even had them. So it's pretty much settled that I'm going with a V2 Vortech. Probably the Si model.

    This is the third time I've made a double post to correct myself. Sorry about that.

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  • ootdega
    replied
    Originally posted by sly View Post
    you can set up either for the RPM range you want it to operate in. That's just size and pulley configuration. Smaller pulley to spool sooner. With the right size for your application, you can get a pretty flat torque curve out of it across all RPM. Figuring our what size of screw/snail and what pulley size however, I have no clue about.
    From what I can read and watch on the subject, it seems like it has more to do with the gear ratio than the pulley or snail size.

    Originally posted by sxcpotatoes View Post
    I've seen some superchargers/kits v1 & v2 on CL locally, looked into it and v1s scream like jet engine whine. V2s are much, much quieter but I don't know how quiet. Maybe search some YT vids for idle & rev on Mustangs for an idea.

    Sent from my XT557 using Tapatalk 2
    You're right, it is much quieter. Almost silent. That's something to consider then.

    Originally posted by Bobcat View Post
    Twin screws and any blower that work off of the engine as an accessory will kill fuel economy. I hope you know that when you buy a performance blower, you're going to get blower performance and blower fuel consumption. I like the idea of a turbo better, seeing as you can drive around off of boost (or making a small amount) and when you want power, you have it. Yeah you have a bit of lag from a stand still to WOT, but what does it matter. You're in a rolling barge.

    I like the idea of the centrifugal blower, because they're a easy as balls to set up as an accessory and you add a inter cooler. From the quick bit of scouting out I've done on my car, it'd be far far easier to remove AC and the condenser, since it'd be hard to make room otherwise. If you use a stock Foxbody peocharger, for example. You'd need to swap to a fox style accessories brackets. A twin screw or roots blower Is always awesome, just because it's awesome. But you're right about hood clearance.
    A blower without whine, isn't a true blower.

    Annnddd. If you're looking for power and boost for reliable daily use. I'd think about upgrading your engine before bolting on a blower.

    Disregard my spelling and lack of reading, I'm on my phone.
    Well obviously. That was addressed earlier in the thread. (...I think) I'll be converting it to H.O. Mass Air before I do any forced induction of any kind. When I do I'll be replacing and upgrading any and all parts involved. Pistons, lifters, rockers, injectors, exhaust, everything. If I go all-out and do everything right I should be at or close to 300 horsepower.

    So, I wouldn't really need much more power, I just want a charger to increase fuel economy, and I'm not sure a centrifugal type can do that. It seems too similar to a turbo to give that impression. I could of course be wrong, and I kinda hope I am, because if I can get that out of a centrifugal type then it would be by far the easiest and least expensive option.

    It...wouldn't be nearly as awesome, but I can live with that. I'm still kinda wary of the frailty of them, since I've seen many photos (and some Ebay listings) with damaged turbines. It wouldn't take much to do it either.

    I'm not gonna be removing anything from the car though. I'm keeping A/C and anything else. If it'd be difficult to do without removing anything, then I'd think it'd be easier to just modify the hood. From what I can see though, every Foxbody with a V2 I can find with Google ends up relocating the alternator to fit it. We've got a bigger engine bay to work with.
    Last edited by ootdega; 01-13-2015, 07:38 PM.

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  • 88Vic
    replied
    Also keep in mind a Centrifugal like a Procharger (also applies to turbos) put less stress on the bottom end because its boost comes on progressively with rpm, so you can drive it normally with no extra stress, so they can be added to a stock bottom-end engine set up for lower boost (a lot of guys run 7.5 psi max) and the engine will last as long as it ever would. Yeah it doesn't have as much low-end torque as a twin-screw but the less stress plus install/setup simplicity make them popular. They're by far the easiest forced induction to install.

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  • Bobcat
    replied
    Twin screws and any blower that work off of the engine as an accessory will kill fuel economy. I hope you know that when you buy a performance blower, you're going to get blower performance and blower fuel consumption. I like the idea of a turbo better, seeing as you can drive around off of boost (or making a small amount) and when you want power, you have it. Yeah you have a bit of lag from a stand still to WOT, but what does it matter. You're in a rolling barge.

    I like the idea of the centrifugal blower, because they're a easy as balls to set up as an accessory and you add a inter cooler. From the quick bit of scouting out I've done on my car, it'd be far far easier to remove AC and the condenser, since it'd be hard to make room otherwise. If you use a stock Foxbody peocharger, for example. You'd need to swap to a fox style accessories brackets. A twin screw or roots blower Is always awesome, just because it's awesome. But you're right about hood clearance.
    A blower without whine, isn't a true blower.

    Annnddd. If you're looking for power and boost for reliable daily use. I'd think about upgrading your engine before bolting on a blower.

    Disregard my spelling and lack of reading, I'm on my phone.

    Leave a comment:


  • sxcpotatoes
    replied
    I've seen some superchargers/kits v1 & v2 on CL locally, looked into it and v1s scream like jet engine whine. V2s are much, much quieter but I don't know how quiet. Maybe search some YT vids for idle & rev on Mustangs for an idea.

    Sent from my XT557 using Tapatalk 2

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    you can set up either for the RPM range you want it to operate in. That's just size and pulley configuration. Smaller pulley to spool sooner. With the right size for your application, you can get a pretty flat torque curve out of it across all RPM. Figuring our what size of screw/snail and what pulley size however, I have no clue about.

    Leave a comment:


  • ootdega
    replied
    I did some more looking into it, and from what I read twin screw superchargers make their boost at all RPMs and spool up the fastest while only creating heat through pressure. Which, from what I understand, would mean that that'd only be an issue at high PSI and a radiator upgrade would take care of it otherwise.

    The centrifugal types are much easier to install and very easy to intercool, but can't move nearly as much air as a twin screw because of their volume and so don't gain much outside of WOT. The main reasons I want one is for the power to move things, for increased mileage, and better engine life by reducing how hard the engine has to work to do what I need it to. It doesn't seem like a centrifugal type would help much, if any, with mileage since they're so similar to turbochargers. The area where it provides the most gain is also the area where it would burn the most fuel.

    Or am I confusing RPM with throttle position?

    EDIT:....And centrifugal types are very noisy. Very, VERY noisy.
    Last edited by ootdega; 01-13-2015, 09:05 AM.

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  • ootdega
    replied
    Originally posted by Hearsesrock427 View Post
    Lots of nice things

    Er. Um. Wow. Thanks for all that. I needed that, it kinda made my day.

    Uh. To address the discussion:

    I was leaning toward a twin screw because of reliability. It seemed like centrifugal chargers were a lot like turbos and thus, kinda fragile. But it's a lot easier to replace a turbine than it is to replace engine parts, so I can see the point there. I also wouldn't need to worry about hood clearance with a centrifugal charger, since it'd sit around the front of it instead of on top, from what I've seen anyway. My main concern would be the whistling noise I've heard some chargers make. That would drive me nuts.

    I wholeheartedly agree with what you said about GMN. I would still be so damn clueless about so many things if not for the guys here. I mean, I've even got part numbers for riduculously specific parts from here. Your comments about progress and learning also made a lot of sense and...honestly kinda cleared up some apprehensions I had about myself.

    Basically, in the long run I want something that is as practical as possible done in a way that looks good. Rugged, but classy. Capable, but comfortable. I plan on keeping it for as long as concievably possible, so I want to update it as much as I can to make it dependable and something to be proud of.

    The LSD and tires have made a HUGE difference. It snowed five inches today and I drove from Jerome to Twin Falls and back with very little difficulty. It goes where I point it and doesn't get stuck anywhere, regardless of ice or snow. I'm also REALLY glad I got that wiper switch replaced; the intermediary setting is a godsend.

    I do plan on trying an automotive class sometime this year to see how it goes. I would rather have an apprenticeship under someone, though. I'd learn a lot faster and better that way, but I don't see it happening. Hopefully I'll meet some people while I'm there.

    And lastly, the fender really isn't that bad at all. If I knew what I was doing I could get it out with a rolling pin and a rubber mallet. There is a small dent, but it's in too small a place for a plunger to work. Once the fender is back in the proper shape it should tap out without too much trouble. It was more of a shock than anything, since it was the first time my car has touched another since I got it, and I've maneuvered the thing through some pretty insane things before without even realizing it.

    Um, it says "More info here:" but there's nothing after it. I'm not sure what happened there.

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  • piranah
    replied
    I want a push bar for my wagon so bad. Any more photos of that wagon? I know there are videos, but cant really pay attention to those at work.

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  • Hearsesrock427
    replied
    Originally posted by 88Vic View Post
    Not to start a huge debate or throw the thread off topic, but keep in mind that Roots/Twin Screw Superchargers produce all their boost at WOT, regardless of engine speed. That'll put more stress on the engine and reduce life. Centrifugal Superchargers make boost progressively with engine rpm so little to no extra stress is put on the engine. Centrifugal also creates less heat, especially with an efficient air-to-air intercooler setup.

    Twin Screw does make a ton of low-mid range torque but I think Centrifugal is better for street use. That's debatable, but that's my opinion of it. If you really want the low-mid power, a Twin Screw has improvements over Roots for street use, Roots are better if you're going for big power gains in a racing application.
    Ah. I didn't know that. So it's more of an all-or-nothing type deal. You've got to put your foot into it to use the boost. Sounds a lot like the old single turbo engines. They were gutless at part throttle, but quick as balls at WOT. 930 series 911 Turbo anyone?

    Can definitely see why Centris are better for street use, and also better for what the OP wants. Less heat = less stuff breaking. Linear power delivery = easier launches, able to be both civilized and speedy.

    Originally posted by ootdega View Post
    Ever go back and read something you wrote a long time ago and wonder how the hell you were ever that stupid such a short time ago?

    Yeah. That. Hard to believe I wasn't 15.



    ...Anyway, I've done a lot of stuff and things, most of which was only possible through the information provided by the lot of you. I've also re-written the list to include everything I'd already accomplished, mostly to keep myself from getting discouraged from life in general. While I was at it, I removed some redundancy and things I changed my mind on.

    I was gonna [spoiler] it here, but it doesn't work because I used brackets to act as checkboxes.

    Basically, I've got the tires I wanted, an LSD, a new heater core, and fixed the heater door hinge. I also bought a pair of Gabriel Ultra front shocks and 1.25" wheel spacers, but I haven't got them installed yet.

    None of this was easy, especially considering the fact that I had to take it back to the shop three different times because they kept breaking things and ended up not having it for a month as a result, and the dash light they fucked up still doesn't work right. Never going there again.

    I bumped my grandma's car, and scuffed part of the trim and bent the fender slightly in the process, so I'll have to deal with that next.



    In addendum, I apologize for being a dumbass in the preceding chunk of thread. I do that a lot, and there's a reason for it, but I won't bother you all with my excuses.
    Maybe not a short time ago, but a couple years? Sure.

    The important part is that YOU, not us, realized and rectified the problem. There's something to be said for that. Something good.

    I credit GMN for propelling my '89 to the next level. I've learned more than I ever thought was possible about these cars. And there's still more to learn. I can relate to the other stuff too- changing build lists, filling in details, etc. It's all part of building a car. My plans have changed at least a dozen times since I got my '89. Get used to it. The more you learn, the more your build will reflect that. I will also say it's nice to have something physical and concrete to fight for. I worked my ass off last summer, all on behalf of my car. Knowing you're fighting for something tangible (such a long tube headers, or new cylinder heads) helped me immensely, as is being able to reap the benefits of the things you're fighting for. Once you start successfully building your '89, you'll come to understand that selfish self-indulgence is a good and healthy thing. It validates our existence, and motivates us to pursue goals. I think I speak on behalf of GMN as a whole when say that it'd be our pleasure to continue helping you achieve your ends with your '89- whether it's just keeping her running nice, or making her a rip-roaring muscle car, or something in between.

    Good tires and a working LSD should siginificantly improve handling. I noticed a difference right away when I switched to wider, stickier, shoes. Everything was better.

    That's the thing. Very few places are even remotely competent with these cars. Get used to it. I was extremely lucky and found three good places locally (one for basic maintenance/stock parts stuff, one for going faster, and one for body work). But even then, they can't do everything. Learning to do quality work yourself is a GUARANTEED way to ensure you can do exactly what you want to your car.

    Regarding the fender-bender: if it's not too deep, you could just pull the dent out with a plunger. Old body work trick. I posted this another thread, but it's equally valid here. If the scratch isn't too deep, you could probably just hit it with some buffing compound. More info here:
    Last edited by Hearsesrock427; 01-09-2015, 08:01 PM. Reason: Added some context.

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