I call it the Monolith. I have plans for it.

[sly]

12 point M12 swivel socket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RLHUD2/
This is the one I have. I've used a half inch impact on this with no issues.

[87gtVIC]

Double wrench the wrench.



Or hammer the wrench. You will get it.

[ootdega]

Transmission is fully disassembled.

Clutches: Excellent condition. The serial numbers are intact on all but the intermediates, which are still very good.
Servos: Can't find anything wrong with them. Not sure what could go wrong with them, to be honest.
Seals: Completely intact.
Roller clutches/sprags: Intact, with no visible wear.
Overdrive band: Visibly burnt.
Reverse band: I could not even identify it at first, because all of the friction material is gone. It's just an iron ring. This might explain why there was slightly more metal powder in the pan than expected.

Lost the governor check ball in my haste to remove the last of the innards, but I referenced the Holy Texts for the part number and actually found a bunch for sale. So if I lose the other one, it's not the end of the world. Have not taken apart the valve body yet, though. Saving that for last.

There was pink paint both on the front pump and the end of one of the shafts, so I get the impression this has already been rebuilt once, and whoever did it screwed up on the reverse band somehow. I ordered a basic rebuild kit and both bands, as well as a drop-in shift kit. And now I am officially out of money.



Current predicament: The driveshaft bolts. I can't budge them with a wrench, so that is out of the question. Finding a 12mm 12-point impact socket has set me upon a grand adventure spanning uncharted lands holding untold treasures, and I expect to meet no friends along the way.

[ootdega]

It's probably a roll pin. It should come out.
Have you seen this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuBBYmPStSs

Something like this was suggested to me, but I was concerned about expanding the dumb thing and cracking the case. I'll try it in the future when I put a 4R70W in there. That will probably need a linkage swap too. This one is a lost cause, even if the pin came out. It's missing enough parts below the pan that I don't trust the inside of it either. That's how I'm coping with it, at least. It's already half disassembled.

I'm looking at this as an opportunity to add a few more clutches. It makes me feel better.

its a roll pin, usually they come out with a pair of diagonal cutters. The problem is if some dickhead drove it in there too far during assembly and didn't leave enough sticking out to grab with the pliers.

This is the problem. There was barely enough to grip onto, and the one time I had grip with the cutters, it wouldn't budge. Slipped off, took some of the pin with it, and nothing else ever got a grip. Went out and bought the needliest needlenose pliers I could find, and they were still too thick to get in there. It is a uniquely infuriating experience to have all your plans and the absolutely miserable month attached to them completely trashed by one teeny tiny little pin.

I am confused, why do you need p71 axles? I thought everything, but the rare limo HD axles, were the same except for the #of splines 28 changing to 31 in 05 or maybe mid 04. Maybe you have some P71 axles lying around?

I can't remember for sure if the 90 and up axles are actually any longer than 89 and down?

I am replacing the 28s with 31s. I have a Cobra diff to put in it. I bought the P71 axles a long time ago, off a 2011. They are 4 inches longer, which means they have enough space to respline them. Dutchman up in Meridian does that for $130 a pair.



Something to note: I was looking up methods of removing the AOD front pump assembly, and I found someone mention that the starter bolts match the two opposing threaded holes in it. I still had the starter bolts, so (after making sure they fit) I took one to Tacoma Screw and got a couple that were twice as long. This let me just alternate screwing them in until the bolts pushed the pump out. Very easy, has zero risk of damage, cost me a dollar, and requires no special tools whatsoever.

[gadget73]

its a roll pin, usually they come out with a pair of diagonal cutters. The problem is if some dickhead drove it in there too far during assembly and didn't leave enough sticking out to grab with the pliers.

[jaywish]

I am confused, why do you need p71 axles? I thought everything, but the rare limo HD axles, were the same except for the #of splines 28 changing to 31 in 05 or maybe mid 04. Maybe you have some P71 axles lying around?

I can't remember for sure if the 90 and up axles are actually any longer than 89 and down?

[friskyfrankie]

It's probably a roll pin. It should come out.
Have you seen this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuBBYmPStSs

Cool tips. "MM (Monkey Meters) - Ha Ha!

[Arquemann]

It's probably a roll pin. It should come out.
Have you seen this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuBBYmPStSs

[ootdega]

The pin that holds the linkage in place is not going to come out. It's not even a pin. It's a tiny little rolled-up piece of sheet steel. It's not going anywhere, and any options I have are likely to just break the case. So I'm going back to plan A. I'm taking both of them apart, seeing what can be used, and going from there.

The junkyard transmission is in poor external condition, including the tailshaft, and is somehow missing multiple internal parts. The parking pawl literally fell out when I dropped the pan. But the inside is clean, so there's still a good chance most if it is usable.

Considering doing the differential while I'm at this. Not sure how to go about getting the P71 axles shortened. Dutchmann doesn't seem to have an invoice form for that, and that's the only way they accept orders now.


...The badges also came off. I won't lie, that hurt my feelings a little bit.

[ootdega]

Well, the shift linkage isn't cooperating. As far as I can tell, I'm doing it right. Following the holy texts and everything. The linkage won't come out, and I'm afraid of breaking something if I try any harder. The nut is just spinning, and so is the lever. So I'm kinda stuck.

I can put it off for now, but I'm not sure what to do about it.

EDIT: It's a teeny tiny little pin. I thought it was some kind of bleeder valve. So I'm trying not to feel like a moron.

https://youtu.be/_6UX9itv1NM

[ootdega]

Well, it turns out dragging the transmission out of the yard in a wheelbarrow a quarter mile up a hill that peaks at a 30 degree incline, and then doing it again with a set of Lincoln wheels that were in good condition, and then doing it again to get a winch for someone else isn't very good for you. My back was absolutely annihilated and I threw up twice from exhaustion. I was out of commission for a week. My stomach still doesn't quite accept people food.

Haven't made any progress since then because it has been snowing. In April.

Couldn't find the extension housing bolts, and they want 12 bucks a piece online. But they weren't very smart, because they listed the exact specifications of the bolts. So I just took a screenshot to Tacoma Screw and got four grade 10.9 bolts for $1.38. I forgot washers though.

If you don't have a good trans dipstick tube between this donor '90 and your '89, the tube from that '95 will likely work. Mustang tube will fit the trans end but may be shaped in a way that puts the top of the tube in a not useful location (no idea really.)
Should be one bellhousing bolt holdomg thentube then it pulls up and out of the trans.

The starter on that '90 is wired different compared to the '89. There are threads on converting '89 and down Panthers to the '90+ starter, but if you take the wires to the starter and take note of where they go it could make that swap easier. The '90+ starter uses less power to do the same amount of work and is smaller, making it a desirable swap on the older Panthers.

The '95 front sway bar I think has different mounting for the swaybar endinks, but someone who knows more about that will have to chime in. I'm not familiar with the newer swaybar setup.

I got a new tube from an 89 Town Car, same car the wheels came from. Easy. Also got a glovebox latch, since mine is broken. Freakin miracle, that one. Might even figure out how to get it open with this.

I'll keep the starter and sit on it for now, but if there's anything I can do, it's rewire a plug. Every connector in this PC has been rewired. I know my way around a soldering iron, at least.

You're right about the bars. Completely different end links.

[VicCrownVic]

If you don't have a good trans dipstick tube between this donor '90 and your '89, the tube from that '95 will likely work. Mustang tube will fit the trans end but may be shaped in a way that puts the top of the tube in a not useful location (no idea really.)
Should be one bellhousing bolt holdomg thentube then it pulls up and out of the trans.

The starter on that '90 is wired different compared to the '89. There are threads on converting '89 and down Panthers to the '90+ starter, but if you take the wires to the starter and take note of where they go it could make that swap easier. The '90+ starter uses less power to do the same amount of work and is smaller, making it a desirable swap on the older Panthers.

The '95 front sway bar I think has different mounting for the swaybar endinks, but someone who knows more about that will have to chime in. I'm not familiar with the newer swaybar setup.

[ootdega]

Well, no need to worry. We got it out with minimal casualties. Held the top tire back with the Y-pipe, pulled the bottom tire out from under it with a winch and chain, used seats to gradually step it down. Had to winch the seats out from under it, though. That was a pain, but it all came together. Not gonna lie, I feel pretty clever.

I win.

You are probably right about the condition. The whole thing turns easily by hand and carries inertia, the fluid is super clean, and both the flexplate and converter are aftermarket, in excellent condition. So is the starter. I didn't get the plate, but I might next time. Not sure I need it, but I do want it.

The dipstick tube was tragically lost in the process. Not my fault. Don't tell anyone, but I think it was already broken. But now I need to find a new one, and I'm not 100% sure which will fit. If a Mustang tube will fit, then I have a lot of options.

God I hope you're right.




I'll be going back regularly to disassemble as much of this wrecker as possible. This is the only 1st gen Panther available in the entire city. I better take advantage of this while I can. I dunno where all the rest went. They were everywhere a few years ago. Just disappeared. Probably crushed, because they aren't a Mustang.

The '95 also has a freakin huge front sway bar as part of the tow package. I might grab that too.

[VicCrownVic]

Oh, drain plug could mean someone actually kept up with regular maintenance. Perhaps even some improved internals to try to make the trans last a little longer. Stock AODs did not come with a drain plug.

Wow. Man, you don't fuck around, do ya? Brutal. But it's something to consider. I mean, it's not like anyone is going there for the floorboards. Last resort probably, though.

I usually do not condone destroying stuff in the JY to get at what you want, but in this case I find it highly unlikely that someone will need the floor pan or roof and have access to this car before it is crushed. It's when people unnecessarily destroy things that could have easily been saved, just to get what they want, that pisses me off.

[ootdega]

I thought that might be what you meant. Awesome, thank you. Spring is noted.

Thankfully, this one has the metric pan with a drain plug. Upgrade? Upgrade.