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I've had the most luck with fitting the plugs onto the center gear, "glued" with a bit of grease, then pushing that into the large gear. Sometimes you have to go around the edge with a small pokentool to get the edge to start. Once it starts it'll shove together fairly easily.
Usually the inner plastic gear lifts out, but maybe the newer type motors don't play well.
Pack it with some sort of plastic-compatible grease when you're done. White lithium or silicone grease does fine, wheel bearing grease turns things to mush.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
Pack it with some sort of plastic-compatible grease when you're done. White lithium or silicone grease does fine, wheel bearing grease turns things to mush.
Shit....
1990 MGM: $50 E7 heads, HO cam, Holley SysteMAX lower intake, HO upper intake with an Explorer TB. LSC ECM. Lincoln logs into stock dual exhaust. K&N drop in air filter. Wide ratio AOD, 2400 converter with a 3.08 one tire fire out back. Car is less slow now. Then there's the '92 Beater. Dual 2.25" exhaust with shiny tips. Rumbles nice. Super slow. Burns oil too.
I position the metal gear on the shaft and keep it high enough to just get the plugs in place. Once in place, I'll hammer it in place with a dead blow mallet.
All four window motors on my car needed new plugs. I got it down to a science by the third one.
—John
1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)
that's why I use ball bearings. I don't screw around. If people don't wanna get their fingers chomped in my windows, they'll keep them from being in the window when it closes.
Yeah go figure right? Getting a little poo on you is not a big deal when compared to fucking up your own car though. Don't wanna have jacked-up door panels or f'ed up windows. Here's another movie quote i'm sure will be easier to recognize. "A good man knows his limitations". And a variation on that later of course...I'm not an idiot or a tard, just not patient enough sometimes to deal with weird shit. Anybody have a door-panel-removal tutorial. Might seem ridiculous but certain things are awkward for me.
that's why I use ball bearings. I don't screw around. If people don't wanna get their fingers chomped in my windows, they'll keep them from being in the window when it closes.
And ball bearings are cheaper.
That is cool. Although, what happens if you hold the switch in either position after the window has finished moving as far as it can?
Yeah go figure right? Getting a little poo on you is not a big deal when compared to fucking up your own car though. Don't wanna have jacked-up door panels or f'ed up windows. Here's another movie quote i'm sure will be easier to recognize. "A good man knows his limitations". And a variation on that later of course...I'm not an idiot or a tard, just not patient enough sometimes to deal with weird shit. Anybody have a door-panel-removal tutorial. Might seem ridiculous but certain things are awkward for me.
LoL, I was thinking more along the lines of just bassackwards plumbing jobs, digging holes to fix said stupid shit, ect ect. Every time I do something in the house aside from changing a switch it goes badly.
I've gotten purty good at removing the door panels safely.
On box Townies I start by:
1) Removing the bezel for the door handle, two screws there plus you pull the chrome tab off for the lock lever which as you pull the door handle somewhat, allows you to get the trim off.
2) There's a fastener which goes around the power mirror control joystick that you spin off. Then you can lift up on that end of the control panel and pull it out by pulling in the direction of the dashboard.
3) With the control panel out of the way you'll now be able to get at two more screws which were previously hidden. Those may be something other than Phillips head, probably 7mm or something similar like 5/16". At this point you can take a Phillips screw driver to the screws holding the electrical stuff to the control panel or try to fish it out through the hole in the door later, your call.
4) There are two screws in the door panel you need to remove next, one should be just below the arm rest towards the rear of the door and another at the lower left corner of the door hidden by carpeting. You might have more if someone else has been there before
5) Next you get to remove the black barbs/Christmas trees. That is made easier with a trim removal tool. Helps to use your fingers to feel where they are by gently pulling up on the panel, I forget how many there are but if the panel isn't coming up somewhat when you pull, that's an indicator there's one of those trees there for you to put your tool around ::giggity:: and pry it out, repeat the process until your at the top of the door panel.
6) Now you can reach behind the door panel and disconnect the door light if so equipped, be sure to check nothing else is holding the panel..
7) Panel is ready to come off, lift up to free it from the edge of the door frame and then pull towards you, checking to make sure the door control panel isn't hung up on anything.
Rear doors are similar, it all starts with the door handle trim and ash tray thing.
1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge
I took a cruise last night with all windows down! All windows moving fast and smooth. Unfortunately I'm about to go back into the front doors.
I'm having an issue with the door locks. First the electric lock stopped working. Now I can't lock it from the outside with a key, Seems like the entire lock jammed up on that side and won't turn.
The other thing I'm noticing is when I close the door with the window down the glass shakes. Feels like it should be more secure?
That is cool. Although, what happens if you hold the switch in either position after the window has finished moving as far as it can?
It stops. Same as ever. Have had zero issues with the motors (except for one having brush issues) since. Been running the BBs for at least 7 years. Aeros like to break regulators though... but that's nothing new. Replaced all of those motors with later whale motors that don't have the bushings and are just rubber damped direct drive. They're not as fast as the original motors, but they work fine. The beater has had zero issues (cept for that one brush issue - replaced with spare and BBs).
I took a cruise last night with all windows down! All windows moving fast and smooth. Unfortunately I'm about to go back into the front doors.
I'm having an issue with the door locks. First the electric lock stopped working. Now I can't lock it from the outside with a key, Seems like the entire lock jammed up on that side and won't turn.
The other thing I'm noticing is when I close the door with the window down the glass shakes. Feels like it should be more secure?
Sounds like our cars are cousins. I have door lock issues as well, and my passenger front door won't open from the outside, gotta dick with that while i'm in there about the window motor. Might just drop the bastard off at my buddy's shop. I have no time for this shit.
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