Originally posted by sly
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New radiator is in, along with 8 new spark plugs. I've noticed since the HO intake install, when the engine is cold at extremely low throttle position it has a hesitation and occasional light bucking. I think i'll just have to get used to this, most likely nothing i can do. It's not awful.
My fan speed on "low" for the blower motor no longer works. I assume its the resistor. I see there are 4 pin, and 5 pin resistors. I also read its located behind the upper intake? Which one do I need? Rockauto doesn't really say which is which.-Phil
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+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.
+2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed
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Blower resistor is located on the heater plenum on the engine side directly behind the intake. If you have a 3-speed fan switch, you may have the 4-wire. I've only ever seen the 5 wire that's used on ATC and 4-speed (Low, Med-lo, Med-hi, Hi) manual setups. I have never actually seen the 4-wire one. Easiest way to find out is just look at the harness going to it and count the wires.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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If you don't have ATC you may wanna leave that resistor be. The air speed the fan provides on the low setting is comparable to what you get pushed thru the air vents simply because of the air pressure build up at the HVAC's intake while car is in motion, in other words you're using power and wearing out your blower motor for nothing. At some point I deliberately crippled my blower resistor to allow for a "fan off but fresh air on" mode, as typically the only way to shut the blower off is to place the vent-selector in the off position which also closes the recirculation door and cuts the HVAC off from the outside world (good guard against mice tho, assuming the vacuum holds in the servo motor).
But yes, like Sly suggested just count wires coming out of the current resistor block, this will be the number of pins you need the new one to have.The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.
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Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post...I've noticed since the HO intake install, when the engine is cold at extremely low throttle position it has a hesitation and occasional light bucking. I think i'll just have to get used to this, most likely nothing i can do. It's not awful...1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge
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Unhook the EGR valve and see if that changes. I had off-idle hesitation for a long time, finally traced it to EVR fuckery opening the EGR valve when it should not be.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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I didn't reset the computer, but thought about it. In the program is a parameter for idle air flow that is set at the factory, both physically and in the computer. This is obviously thrown off by installing a throttle body that allows a different amount of air in at idle. Reseting the computer wont change this figure, however it will change what it has learned aka KAMs. It should relearn just given time, but it never hurts to do a hard reset.
Thain, I'll give it a shot as well. How did you rectify the problem in the end? My EVR is new-Phil
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+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.
+2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed
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initially I cleaned the EVR inside with a snort of wd-40, eventually replaced it. May not be the problem if the part is new but easy enough to check86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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I finally got around to replacing the tail shaft seal and bushing. Heat did the trick on the driveshaft bolts so thanks for that! Thankfully the yoke was in good shape so I reused it. When I did the bushing on the maverick the yoke was toast.
I also started tackling some of the rust. I could not get 100% of it off this area unfortunately, the metal was getting too thin for my comfort and i'm not down to so some welding right now. I’m really just trying to slow it down the best I can. It will buy it a few more years at least. Epoxy primer FTW!
I also replaced the tailgate window motor. It now works! And i can put the tailgate down like a truck. Unfortunately the key function to put the window down does not work. Im guessing it's the switch, any leads on obtaining one of those, or perhaps a suggestion on fixing it, clean up some contacts?-Phil
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+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.
+2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed
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Well the 4th nor'easter to hit us is here today so I had off... so what's a responsible box owner to do? Work on their panther of course!
I still had the hesitation/bucking on light throttle. I re-checked the TPS sensor... No dead spots but there was a brief section when the throttle was first cracked that it would not respond. I tightened up the throttle screw, it read .95 (it was .93. So I reemed out the TPS screw holes and got it to about .98/.99.
I took it for a test drive in this slushy mess and no matter the temperature, or the number of restarts I couldn't get it to hesitate or buck...pretty sure that solves the problem! It feels like a real car now haha
In other news the cars been getting 12-14 in city driving, not terrible considering its true in city driving with tons of cold starts/stops and many stop signs. Excited to see what she'll do on the highway. It's driven about 5 days a week and there's a growing list of small things I'd like to fix, but nothing that affects its usability.-Phil
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+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.
+2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed
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If they switch you guys over to winter blend gas like they do in Ohio, 12-14 city sounds dead on the money for pure city.
Just caught up on this thread...nice score!'91 LTD Country Squire LX | '82 Cougar GS wagon |'03 Marauder | ' 18 Flex Limited EB
formerly: '02 MGM, '04 MGM, '04 MGM v2.0, '04 MM, '07 P71 w/5-speed, '03 SAP P71, '04 CVLX (now in pantera77's stable), '10 P7B
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A few updates. I installed a new brake booster and master cylinder for a 98-02 vic. The brakes were getting worse and worse, and the vacuum leak getting more noticeable. WOW what a difference these made, the brakes feel absolutely amazing now. Doing this also fixed my bucking/hesitation i was having, I guess it had more of a vacuum leak than I thought and was throwing off the computer. The crappy tires on this thing can not keep pace with the braking power of the big brakes, but that's another matter entirely.
Just a note to anyone doing this, and it even says it on the new booster: you may have to adjust the pushrod. I had to much play between the MC and the booster initially, and once adjusted it made all the difference.-Phil
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+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.
+2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed
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Updating the MC and booster made a nice improvement in pedal feel on my car too. The prop valve was changed at the same time. Can't say which part made the most difference, but having all of the hydraulic bits match up does help.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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I haven't updated this in a while- just been driving her almost everyday!
Before I post this up in the "For Sale" section in a month or so, I just wanted to let anyone who's interested know that it will soon be for sale. I actually need something bigger (like a full sized van)Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 07-01-2019, 08:05 PM.-Phil
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+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.
+2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed
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Hey Guys! Just posted her up for sale: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...424#post831424-Phil
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+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.
+2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed
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