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Monty's 1978 Case 446
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Too bad it’s given you such fits. Usually those old things will outlive you. I have a 68 simplicity landlord that i need to get home if I ever make space for it. My yard is small but it could haul shit around plus it was my grandparents.
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One time I thought it would be a grand idea to restore a late 70s Ariens snow thrower. The old machines are "unbeatable". Procured a decent used one and went through it; the only mechanical issue was a bent rake shaft.
Thought it was cool until it wouldn't start after we got a foot of snow and I needed it. Sold.
Bought a brand new 28" Ariens the next day and I've yet to have an issue. That was 5 years ago.
I like old stuff as much as the next guy, but sometimes it just isn't practical.
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Rectifier, ignition switch, plug wires, and points/condenser installed. Rectifier harness was melted, and I had to rig up some new wiring. Now it starts. The rattle seems to be less noticeable, as well. Don't know why that would have changed.
Drove it around the yard for a while to get my kicks. It's listed for sale, again.
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Pulled the ad. This tractor is driving me nuts. Today, it started, and I drove it around the yard. Turned it off, and it wouldn't restart. Problem is electrical. Messed with the points (cleaned and adjusted again). Could not get it to start. Put in a new starter solenoid, and no change. I'm pretty sure the points and condenser are part of the problem. When trying to start the engine, the points only spark 1 out of every 4 or 5 times there is contact. I've done some tests, but this thing doesn't give me a definite culprit. Now, I'm throwing money at it like a dumbass. Ordered rectifier, ignition switch, plug wires, points and condenser. Another $122 into it. $604 into it, so far.
My curiosity is getting the best of me, and I want to figure out this machine.Last edited by monterey1962; 09-12-2021, 12:16 AM.
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I just assume that anything that makes its way into my hands has been horribly abused and neglected. I'm usually the last resort for a lot of things.
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I'd like to keep it and actually use it, but I don't like it enough to put more time and money into it. At this point, if I were unable to sell it, I would pull the motor and dig into the connecting rods and pistons. Of all the videos I watched on Onan engines, a few of them had that rattling sound. After researching more, it's probably the rods or pistons making the noise. There is also the option of installing a completely new motor, but the Vanguard upgrade is expensive.
Another factor is the three BS issues that I found in it: 1. The float pin in the timing cover. 2. The ball bearing jammed into the oil passage. 3. The grinding marks on the oil pump housing. Yes, I fixed them, but those things make me worry about how the rest of the tractor was handled.
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Bet you'll be happy to get rid of that thing. Good luck with the sale.
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I cleaned the points, still no start. Adjusted the points from .021 to .018 and it fired right up.It has been listed for sale.
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Compression test results: Left 70, Right 60. Not what I wanted to see. Should be between 100 and 120. Can't figure out why it started and ran for so long the first two times I had it running, though.
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coil with 2 terminals then? thats waste spark if the points run right off the crank. One spark per rev, but one cylinder fires on the power stroke and the other on exhaust. Same way coil packs on a 4.6 work. Unless the points can be rotated relative to the crank, there isn't any timing adjustment, just a points gap. Basically I was thinking if the timing was off it could do this, but if nothing can be moved, it can't be wrong. Just has to be hot enough to light things off.
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Not sure how to explain it properly. See page 5 in the link. That is how my tractor is set up. https://www.casecoltingersoll.com/d3...atermarked.pdf
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can the ignition be out of time? Distributor that could be a tooth off, something like that or is it one magneto per cylinder?
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Cranks, but won't start. With the exception of the three times that it fired up and ran for three seconds, then died. I'm getting spark at the plugs. Tested the coil and all seemed good. Fuel filter is full of fuel and is located about 5 inches from the fuel pump. I even tried pouring a little fuel down the carb, and it wouldn't start that way.
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It might just be an old rattle trap and be in need of rubber mounts and resonator style intake and exhaust (those T pipes that go nowhere to help drown out the noise).
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Pulled the heads. Could not see anything that would be an issue. Intake valves were at spec. Right side exhaust valve was too tight. Adjusted to spec. Points breaker gap was close to where it should be. Adjusted to spec. Installed the new head gaskets that came with the gasket kit.
Got too late to start it and see if there is a difference.
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