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I'd replace the tail light, corner, and beat the trunk out enough to not break the new tail and run it. If that car was down here... I might be...

Good restoration project. Would not take too much work.

Most of the new latch assemblies I have seen do not have the plastic cover. Maybe a dealer thing or as stated, a junk yard run.

weird, didn't realize they actually had no balance control. The other place they would sometimes hide it is you had to pull the volume knob out to...

Probably a junk yard run then. I doubt anyone would have a spare unless you buy the entire latch.

Mentions good for derby use. :( https://www.ebay.com/itm/134159548450?hash=item1f3c884022:g:2xsAAOSwRnJivMJj

I agree with Frankie, might be work seeing if you can feel in there where the third bolt hole should be. My car is a four door, so it might not be...

Well I know it's a PI engine but that's all I know for sure. I believe the wires were brown and yellow, either that or black and yellow. I'll look...

I like it a lot! More of a silver guy myself though. I would spend a couple extra dollars and get that aluminum tape and wrap my pvc with that. ...

Or better yet: carbon fiber tape. Or gold tape for totally honest +5 horsepower. Because racecar!

I seem to remember an extra connector on my 93 (i know it's not the same) MGM injector harness. Like GM guy said, wire colors and a wiring diagram...

Looking through my 2008 evtm connector views, the only thing that comes close is the knock sensor connector and the cylinder head temp sensor...

I would simply do what I already mentioned and see where the bolts are. Then you can figure where the divot is.

If you're cheeky; you can go with the pvc and wrap it in black duct tape; and pass it off as a carbon fiber CAI?

Treasure chest. :lol3: Right, just how much time do you plan on spending over 70%? For me, it's not very often.

I suppose that could be it, the check engine light isn't on so I assumed it was something extra. I don't know where the engine in this car came from...

That's the one I'm thinking of I believe it just slide on, I think it came off when I pulled the plastic cover off the header panel to change the...

Well the issue didn't appear this morning... This is the head unit I have, plus the 4-channel amp in the trunk: Bass, treble, and front to back...

Sly, That seems like it is a spot weld. There is nothing behind it but the outer door skin. Tim

There should be a plastic end on the secondary release latch lever (the steel latch under the hood) that looks like that. Never seen that break off...

It looks like it should be attached to a bracket and something else plugged into it... so maybe for the knock sensor that should be in the valley?...

When I had that issue... it was the connection to the speakers. Had to clean the tabs and reconnect. In my boxes... the head units/amps were...