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i found some formulas dealing with the stiffness between swaybars of different thicknesses and hollow vs. solid. it is kinda hard to understand but if you did well at algebra you should be able to understand it.
most of the guys on the following board are both engineers and road racers, so they know their shit. here
That total did not answer the question for me. What is the inside diameter of the 1-3/16" waggon front sway bar? If I knew that I could tell you simply yes or no which was stronger.
so am I going to have to go pull this wagon bar and see for myself or what???
actually I shouldnt, $15 for new chassis bushings plus the bar are more money than I should spend to replace something that already works great. Especially since I am unemployed at the moment... hopefully that wagon will be there for another month.
i have the hollow wagon bar on the vic........i think the 7/8" solid bar is better than that.......townie has much better handling than the vic
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
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