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What synthetic oil are you running?

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    #16
    Originally posted by tim marks View Post
    amsoil 5w30 in 3000 mile intervals. the only issue with using the synthetic in a car you do not drive often is chancing leaky seals. on a daily driver its not much of an issue but something that sits around more than its driven you could have an issue.
    Amsoil is designed for higher drain intervals, Why are you throwing away good oil at 3K miles ?

    Can you find a way to send it to me ????????

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      #17
      in all my cars, mobil 1, i change the oil every 6k and filter every 3k.

      I beat the dog shit out of my 125k mustang GT and the inside of the motor was gorgous when i tore the thing down.
      sigpic
      Wrecked - Non-pi 1998 Mustang GT Best ET = 13.36@ 101
      Just bought: 01 grand marq - 5th 4.6L and counting.

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        #18
        Wal-Mart only had 5w-30 last night so that is what I got. Mobil1.

        Thanks everyone!

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          #19
          Originally posted by ogre View Post
          in all my cars, mobil 1, i change the oil every 6k and filter every 3k.
          Good point on the filter. It doesn't matter how long the oil lasts when the filter is clogged and all the dirty oil gets bypassed right back into the motor. The filter on my Duratec 23 is seriously only a little bigger than a 35mm film canister. Extended change intervals have had numerous reports of the filter imploding and collapsing.

          To the OP, if you have never run M1 in your car, it might clean a lot of junk out of the motor. Due to this, I would go ahead and run the M1 since it's fairly inexpensive in the 5-quart jugs, with a filter swap at 2.5k for the initial fill. You could probably run longer change intervals, but get an oil analysis of your 5k used oil to be sure.

          Use a quality filter, BTW. I would rather run cheap dino oil with a good filter versus a synthetic with a cheapo filter. The Motorcraft filters are a great filter for the price.

          I put in some 5W20 Pennzoil Platinum last night, as it was on sale. So far, the engine is smoother than when running M1 or Valvoline full synthetic, and the lifter clatter is pretty much gone now. Seemed to be a bit heavier than any other 5w20 I have put in it.

          Lots of good info for anyone interested here:

          http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
          Last edited by torquelover; 09-04-2009, 09:47 AM.

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            #20
            Originally posted by torquelover View Post
            Good point on the filter. It doesn't matter how long the oil lasts when the filter is clogged and all the dirty oil gets bypassed right back into the motor. The filter on my Duratec 23 is seriously only a little bigger than a 35mm film canister. Extended change intervals have had numerous reports of the filter imploding and collapsing.

            To the OP, if you have never run M1 in your car, it might clean a lot of junk out of the motor. Due to this, I would go ahead and run the M1 since it's fairly inexpensive in the 5-quart jugs, with a filter swap at 2.5k for the initial fill. You could probably run longer change intervals, but get an oil analysis of your 5k used oil to be sure.

            Use a quality filter, BTW. I would rather run cheap dino oil with a good filter versus a synthetic with a cheapo filter. The Motorcraft filters are a great filter for the price.

            I put in some 5W20 Pennzoil Platinum last night, as it was on sale. So far, the engine is smoother than when running M1 or Valvoline full synthetic, and the lifter clatter is pretty much gone now. Seemed to be a bit heavier than any other 5w20 I have put in it.

            Lots of good info for anyone interested here:

            http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
            Thanks! Yeah, I got the Motorcraft filter. I'd never run Fram. I like the Mobil, Motorcraft and Pure 1 filters.

            How do you get an oil analysis?

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              #21
              Mobile 1 10-30 with a mobile 1 filter. Changed every 3k.
              Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

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                #22
                Originally posted by AKA_Rizzo View Post
                I got my 97 with 93K on it and I sold it with 160K on it.

                Either Mobil 1 or Amsoil 5w-20. And I ran 7K intervals.
                How did you go about getting a good deal on the Amsoil? Any time I've checked recently, prices are around $12 per quart! (Granted, some people are charging $9 these days for a quart of Mobil-1)
                2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by torquelover View Post
                  If you live anywhere where cold start up temps are at freezing or below, any synthetic oil would be better than regular dino oil. I used to be a Mobil 1 fan myself, but have recently switched to Valvoline SynPower full synthetic. Going to go to Pennzoil Platinum soon. Very high zinc content, and a strong detergents package.
                  Pennzoil, eh? Does the synthetic not have the parrafin content like the Pennzoil conventional is said to have?
                  2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Bob View Post
                    Thanks! Yeah, I got the Motorcraft filter. I'd never run Fram. I like the Mobil, Motorcraft and Pure 1 filters.

                    How do you get an oil analysis?
                    I actually have a small device in which you put the original unused oil in, it calibrates it, then you put the same brand used oil from your car in it and it gives you a read out, can tell you if the oil is contaminated, and what the contaminant is, if its broken down or not, and a whole lot of other neat stuff
                    -Phil

                    sigpic

                    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
                      I actually have a small device in which you put the original unused oil in, it calibrates it, then you put the same brand used oil from your car in it and it gives you a read out, can tell you if the oil is contaminated, and what the contaminant is, if its broken down or not, and a whole lot of other neat stuff
                      You're like Doc from Back to the Future!

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                        #26
                        I use Mobil 1 5W30 Extended Performance in my Dodge (4.7). Change it at 3000-3500 miles, even though it can be used with 15K mile intervals. Mobil 1 filters too. Its not my personality to go more than 3500 miles on an oil change.

                        I have Royal Purple in the transmission, front and rear diffs, and transfer case.

                        No complaints about Mobil 1. The Royal Purple in the gearbox is fantastic. Much quieter and smoother shifting.

                        I used to run John Deere 15W40 in my 351. The JD has much higher zinc content, and also fantastic anti-wear characteristics. My Dad uses it in everything from lawn mowers to his big trucks.
                        **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                        **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                        **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                        **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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                          #27
                          Mobil 1 5W20 in my 09 26k 4.6. I love it. 7k changes with motorcraft filters at 3.5k.
                          1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                          Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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                            #28
                            I hate changing oil! I'll admit it. I usually just go up to the quick lube and get it done but they charge an arm and leg for synthetic. I changed my oil today and remembered why I hate it so much. Always a mess. LOL And wtf is with the oil filter on these cars? Mine was in such a tight area I had a heck of a time getting the old one out and the new one it. But she's got 5 quarts of synthetic now.

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                              #29
                              oh, yeah, the reason i change the oil every 3k in the Tank is that i leak so much oil, that by the time 3k rolls around, the low oil light starts flickering. I just top it off. I know whats causing this, im just not in the mood to fix it just yet.
                              So, eh, every 3k it is.
                              -ryan s.
                              08 Lincoln Navigator L - 233k
                              03 Mercury Marauder- 63k
                              97 Ford Crown Victoria HPP "Tank of Justice III" (TOJ3) - 194k -->578.9 miles on ONE tank of gas<--
                              94 BMW 325i Convertible - 135k
                              73 VW Super Beetle "Bunky" <----- Wifey's
                              12 Mini Cooper S - 90k <---- Wifey's
                              Originally posted by pantera77
                              Well my buddy tells him he knows exactly who loves buying shitboxes.

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                                #30
                                The 4.6 sucks to change oil in, mostly for the oil filter location. The 302 is a lot easier to get the filter out of, and certainly less messy. Try a Mark VIII sometime though if you really want to talik about ignorant oil changes. I think its impossible to do one of those without dumping oil into the subframe.
                                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                                Originally posted by phayzer5
                                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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