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how do you race your vic? Mine was WAY too slow, what's wrong here?

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    #16
    thanks for the overdrive tip...I don't like the overdrive on the streets even, and I've begun driving around the streets with it off.. It shifts WAY too early into overdrive on the streets and it's a strange kinda shift.

    BTW, perhaps the 3.55's became optional in 99, as my 99 has those gears. Too bad they didn't have the common sense to throw in a trac lok unit too.
    -1999 P71 Crown vic X LAPD..
    -1966 mustang, 5.0 roller crate motor, t5 etc
    -1972 maverick 5.0 roller crate motor with EFI and a Lentech AOD

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      #17
      Originally posted by v8only View Post
      thanks for the overdrive tip...I don't like the overdrive on the streets even, and I've begun driving around the streets with it off.. It shifts WAY too early into overdrive on the streets and it's a strange kinda shift.

      BTW, perhaps the 3.55's became optional in 99, as my 99 has those gears. Too bad they didn't have the common sense to throw in a trac lok unit too.
      im not sure how far up the interchange is, but if its the same rear and such from a panther, then finding a k code should be relativly easy
      i got mine from a box limo,
      89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....

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        #18
        I picked up a Trac-Lok from the junkyard for only $25. It still works awesome(ly).
        And I lucked out because it was recently rebuilt. But the rebuilt kits on Summit and Jegs aren't all that expensive.
        I like driving around with overdrive off and with the exhaust and the J-mod, it downshifts just like engine-braking in a manual.
        I love the sound of it.
        I'm telling you, J-mod is a basic, simple, damn-near-free mod that is noticable.
        You'd appreciate it.

        Clicky---> http://www.crownvic.net/tech/4R70Wnotes.pdf

        From there, PI Heads, PI intake, ported plenum, thorttle body, under drive pullies, water pump, nitrous, and so on.
        or go fast places....

        AS SEEN ON Best Sellers Our Top Performers - For Your Best Performance New Arrivals For the latest content




        They can help you go fast!

        -ryan s.
        08 Lincoln Navigator L - 233k
        03 Mercury Marauder- 63k
        97 Ford Crown Victoria HPP "Tank of Justice III" (TOJ3) - 194k -->578.9 miles on ONE tank of gas<--
        94 BMW 325i Convertible - 135k
        73 VW Super Beetle "Bunky" <----- Wifey's
        12 Mini Cooper S - 90k <---- Wifey's
        Originally posted by pantera77
        Well my buddy tells him he knows exactly who loves buying shitboxes.

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          #19
          Seeing as its a 3.55 open... you will have a hard time perfecting a method of launching the car. I have messed around here and there trying to launch my Dad's car without lighting the tire off. I've never been able to hook it on the street.

          If you have a set of sticky tires for one of your other hot rods, maybe you could try them (they should fit just the same).

          Roll into it a little slower if you don't have sticky tires. Spinning, letting off, spinning, letting off will waste more time than rolling in and going WOT as soon as you can. You'll have to experiment with exactly when you can go WOT... but thats part of the fun.

          You may try running it against the brake a little, leaving on the threshold of spinning, and going WOT ASAP. Its not optimized because you aren't leaving at WOT... but you're limited without stickier tires, a trac lok, etc.
          **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
          **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
          **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
          **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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            #20
            99 p71's are usually the slowest. Not only are they nPI, they have the worst factory tune of them all.

            Still you should be in the mid 16's minimum.
            2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
            2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
            2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
            1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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              #21
              great info from all. I'm gonna read up on that jmod myself later. Trac lok units for me are practically free...I've been in the fox mustang crown for 15 years now...I'll just hit some friends up, then teach myself how to install it.

              I suppose a hand held tuner then would help the computer tune no? Disappointing to hear the 99's had the worst tune. Is there a junkyard computer that would be better to swap? Can I swap a pi 01 computer into it? Junkyard is full of old taxi's and cop cars.
              -1999 P71 Crown vic X LAPD..
              -1966 mustang, 5.0 roller crate motor, t5 etc
              -1972 maverick 5.0 roller crate motor with EFI and a Lentech AOD

              Comment


                #22
                01s have the tune to deal with the higher compression from the PI heads.
                You can swap it. I don't know if it would help or not.

                -ryan s.
                08 Lincoln Navigator L - 233k
                03 Mercury Marauder- 63k
                97 Ford Crown Victoria HPP "Tank of Justice III" (TOJ3) - 194k -->578.9 miles on ONE tank of gas<--
                94 BMW 325i Convertible - 135k
                73 VW Super Beetle "Bunky" <----- Wifey's
                12 Mini Cooper S - 90k <---- Wifey's
                Originally posted by pantera77
                Well my buddy tells him he knows exactly who loves buying shitboxes.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
                  99 p71's are usually the slowest. Not only are they nPI, they have the worst factory tune of them all.

                  Still you should be in the mid 16's minimum.
                  I once heard that the '99s had the most aggressive timing curve.

                  And I tend to believe it, because my Dad's pings like a bitch on anything but 93.
                  **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                  **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                  **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                  **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by P72Ford View Post
                    I once heard that the '99s had the most aggressive timing curve.

                    And I tend to believe it, because my Dad's pings like a bitch on anything but 93.
                    Actually i think you might be right. 00's have the worst factory tunes, 98 and 99's are much better. I have to lurk CVN more I guess.

                    Either way, you should still be in the 16's.
                    2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                    2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                    2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                    1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                    Comment


                      #25
                      My 2000 with 3.55 open ran 15.90s stock... I would expect a '99 to run as good or better with the better computer. I had decent enough tires where it did not just sit and light them up. 18s is not the norm...

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                        #26
                        If you're looking to install a traction lock, you may consider just buying a new one. Last I checked it was about 200 bucks. The rebuild kits are about 125 or so, plus the used part and your time rebuilding it makes it barely worth it unless you get a smoking deal on it. I'd never pay someone shop rate to rebuild a traction lock, one hour of labor and any savings would just go straight out the window.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                          #27
                          I bought a new unit from www.50resto.com for $198, shipped to my house. That was about 2 years ago; Scott put that unit in my red car.

                          I think Summit has them for right at 200, with $12 or so shipping.
                          **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                          **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                          **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                          **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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