Aww shit, here we go again

[gadget73]

Do you have the VSS hooked up? If not, it will pop the EGR valve open off-idle and cause the stumble. Doesnt apply if you don't have EGR and/or the VSS is actually hooked up and working. Also, a sticky EVR will contribute to this because the EGR valve goes full open instead of only partially open off-idle.

[Crownvicman289]

Yes, the VSS is hooked up and pinned to the EEC, but from my pinouts there isn't a provision for the VSS in the SD Mustang EECs. With any luck, I'll have the ACT relocated tomorrow, wiring and all, and be leak free so I can get a better idea of what this car is doing. From this I ASSume the SD Mustangs had no speed limiter but the MAF ones do.

[gadget73]

oh right, speed-density. Yeah I dont think those got VSS input. The 87 and older panthers had no VSS signal either. I really dont know why they made EGR (dys)function relate to speed signal input but I know it goes bonkers if its not hooked up on an ECM that expects VSS input. I'm also not real sold on the speed limiter notion, or at least if there is one there, its way faster than I'm ever gonna go. If no VSS input though, there is definitely no speed limiter. There is a hard RPM limit, but its like 6200 rpm, higher than you're ever likely to be able to make a stockish engine spin anyway unless you're doing dumb stuff on purpose.

[Crownvicman289]

Like angrily revving the ever living piss out of the engine after it vapor locks? Fucking carbs. I hit 6500 with the 289 doing that. Today it appears that I sealed the leak and got the trans and shit back on, all but the h-pipe. I finally installed a plug to the neutral connector on the top of the T5 which should end the stalling I get after I coast long distances and the motor enters DFCO (decel fuel cutoff, or whatever Ford calls it) and I pop it out of gear. It never knew before that the thing went into neutral and the motor would stall, drove me nuts. That and I re-relocated the ACT sensor back to its stock location on the harness, now I just need to drill/tap the lower again (traded me drilled/tapped lower in anticipation of running the sensor in the box) and all will be well. I might just try 39 psi again for shits and giggles because I noticed the ground that leads to pin 40, 60, and pretty much every sensor wasn't tightened down at all. In my temporary installation haste, I put the bolt in about 2 threads and left it. I seem to recall this being an issue the first time I fuel injected the car, so hopefully I pay closer attention when I install the now finished harness for good. I ran some Gunk motor flush through it prior to draining the oil and dumped some Marvel Mystery Oil in with the new oil to hopefully shut up the lifters. If they stop clacking, then this swap is about as good as done. Regardless of how the lifters respond, I'm getting AC bolted on within the next week. I would like to put a badass pusher fan in front of the smaller of my 2 dual puller fans, I just don't know what cars have badass pushers. Obviously the Mark VIII has a badass puller, does anyone know of a good factory pusher fan? Maybe BMWs or something? They're all $15 no matter what the flavor at the pull and pay.

[Crownvicman289]

So fuel pressure is still set to 41psi, idle is stoich as well as cruise, but WOT tapers to 13.8 on the high end. Mostly around 14:1, a bit lean but right on par with the other Mustang dyno pulls I've seen. I'm not seeing 16:1+ leanness like gadget was thank god. Those junkyard O2s seem to be doing their job quite nicely according to the wideband. Base timing is set to 14, haven't verified the accuracy of the factory markings yet, and I won't be screwing (likely futile anyway) with the fuel pressure anymore until the day after tomorrow which is when I'm planning to drill/tap the intake manifold for the ACT sensor. It currently flops on top of the boss that it awaits installation into. Power feels really flat when you get on it, it doesn't feel like it hits a power band so to speak.

[Crownvicman289]

Got the lower drilled/tapped today and now it's got that massive tip in hesitation everybody bitches about. I think the car ran better with the ACT flopping around loose on the intake manifold. Gonna bump fuel pressure to 43 psi and see what happens. Cruising AFRs were good, seems to learn itself stoich pretty quick.

Also got most of the AC installed. I pulled it all off a 1990 Crown Vic that appeared to have an honest 54k on it. That's what the clock said, and the brake pedal and steering wheel were in perfect condition, so I think it must not have been lying. The compressor has compression too, so I grabbed it. I'm short one schraeder valve and have to splice the 2 hoses together, then I can charge it. Would a compression union work here or would it just leak? I bought a steel union of sorts to clamp the rubber together, I think that's what Scott did with his. I'm leaning toward just welding it.

[turbo2256b]

13.8 max load to 16 ish min load is about what is programed into the factory tune.

[Crownvicman289]

You mean 13.8 ish right before you hit WOT, right? GM has open loop tables similar to this, but they also have a WOT fuel adder. I have yet to do a WOT pull since relocating the IAT sensor, I'm putting bumpers back on tonight and rocking the bondo buggy for the next week or so to get a feel for how it runs. I'm thinking I'll just reset the EEC so it relearns quicker with the relocated IAT sensor.

Here's the hose in question, can't decide if I want to do the metal hose clamp union on the rubber, brass compression union on the metal, or just cut and weld the 2 metal sections together. Did I mention the oil leak is back?

[turbo2256b]

Should have said 13.2 to 16 ish. I dont even remember if its 12.8 WOT. I changed a lot of stuff had to rase load charts and richen them up. I have gotten away from tuning EFI stuff for a while. Mostly a few suggestions to guys with Tweecers and some others.

[Crownvicman289]

13.2 sounds a bit more tasty than 13.8. I don't care if I cruise at 16, which I don't, but my biggest issue is that tip in hesitation. I'll slap bumpers on tomorrow, crank up the fuel pressure, and take it to work Monday and start driving it daily to see what happens when the O2s get involved. I don't think they'll affect the transient fueling, but we'll see. If not, I should be able to crank it up, let the EEC cut fuel as needed, and hopefully end up with a decent running car. If not, the MAF is already wired and installed so an A9L at this point is plug and play. I think I'll borrow my friend's to see how my car runs with it before he gets the thing on the road.

Biggest holdup right now is the AC, to charge or not to charge? Gotta decide how I wanna splice that hose first, I got a belt and new valve stems for R134 today. All the o-rings have been replaced with the green ones as well. Compressor and condensor look outstanding, so hopefully the AC rocks once I charge it. Since the motor might be coming out again, I'm hesitant to charge it, but I need to know sooner than later if I have any bad components as May 6th is quickly approaching.

[gadget73]

What we did on the 92 GM was just cut the metal line at the crimp, and cut the rubber hose at the crimp. The hoses were shoved together and a hose clamp was stuck on it. It looks rigged as hell but its not leaking. If you can weld the tubes, that might be better but I won't swear one of them is not aluminum.

Try unhooking the EGR to see if the tip-in hesitation goes away.

[Crownvicman289]

A magnet stuck to both, so as long as my flux core doesn't leave a pinhole I'll be OK.

Good call on the EGR, when I unplug it (the vacuum line I assume), what voltage should I expect to see from the EVP sensor?

[gadget73]

hell if I know. oldfuelinjection.com prob has it. I've been consuming adult beverages, so I'll allow you to look that up for yourself. And yes, the vac line. If it doesn't kick out codes for evp voltage above something, then its where it ought to be.

[Crownvicman289]

Boy am I glad that site still exists, it used to be fordfuelinjection.com and got shut down not long after I did my initial EFI swap. .5V +/- .2V for a closed valve.

[79lincolnlover]

I've been consuming adult beverages, so I'll allow you to look that up for yourself.