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Big Brake Upgrade Need Performance Pad Suggestions.

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    #16
    i'm running duralsast cmax ceramic pads.......they rock!

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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      #17
      Can you explain what a residual pressure valve is and where it is located? Is this something I should modify now that I have rear disk? Where do you add the proportioning valve?


      Originally posted by jaywish View Post
      It is disk/disk so I removed/defeated the residual pressure valve it the rear restrictor. It is a Wilwood adjustable valve.
      Probably should have lubed it with plumbers grease as it is getting very stiff after just a couple of winters. I turn it every few months to keep it from freezing up but it is getting progressively harder.
      87' Lincoln Town Car Stars + Stripes. Explorer GT40P, Anderson B31 Cam, Shorty Headers, FRPP 1.6 Rockers, A9L, Sn95 T5 Trans, 3:55 Limited Slip, GNX Rear Springs, LSC Turbines, 1.5 wheelspacers, Full Custom Dual 2.5/Flowmasters, 00 P71 Airtube, 19lb calibrated Maf, Summit Alum Radiator, King Cobra Clutch, Short throw Shfter, Energy Susp Trans Mount,
      Mods to come: Big Brake/Poly Front Swap, PI Front Swaybar, Addco 650 Rear Swaybar, Boxed Upper Rear Control Arms, 351/Alum Heads, FRPP Valve Covers,

      Comment

        #18
        The combination proportioning and residual pressure valve is screwed in to the rear port of the master. The rear line screws into the valve. This proportioning part of the valve reduces the pressure to the rear brakes, and since the original system was disk/drum the residual pressure portion of the device keeps a few lbs. of pressure in the rear brake line to improve the reaction time of the drum brakes making it compatible with the front disks. The residual pressure function is not desired with disk brakes and the original proportion amount may not be optimal with different brakes all around. Also depends on the cars weight distribution. I have more in the back with a wagon.

        I removed the valve, removed the guts, drilled out/enlarged the passage and screwed it back in.

        I bolted the adjustable valve on the body above the axle housing, between the steel brake line and the hose which leads to the housing. You may want to install it next to the master. Like I said, I have it adjusted all the way open but as turbo2256b pointed out the adjuster itself may be a restriction point even opened all the way. Hopefully he will post back with more info.
        03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
        02 SL500 Silver Arrow
        08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
        12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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          #19
          I had the performance friction pads. They sucked unless hot. I could only get them hot when slowing hard from triple digits or repeated heavy usage. I switched to some EBC Red Stuff pads. Much better compound
          http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
          http://secondhandradio.com/

          R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

          http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

          Comment

            #20
            I've probably never had those pads hot. I don't really use the brakes much, but when I have, it stops with authority. Possible there is something better, but my experience with them so far has been good. I will tell you that whatever the cheap ceramic pads from Advance are sucked balls on my truck. That thing didn't stop worth a damn. I think it has Napa Gold pads on it now, and they are worlds better. By and large my driving is conservative enough that I don't need to use the brakes aggressively or frequently. I learned to drive in a car that had awful brakes, so it was wise to try and avoid relying on them for much. I still tend to drive that way. I've actually done brake jobs to replace rusty rotors from lack of use, not damage from worn out pads.

            All of the valving on an 87 should live in the block down on the frame rail. That will have a residual pressure valve, a proportioning valve, and a metering valve. The only one you need is the proportioning valve, and it won't be correct for disc/disc. Your best bet would be to get rid of all that stuff and either use later model valving or an adjustable rear valve. The residual valve and the metering valve are not needed or wanted with disc/disc. The later booster gives you more surface area, so you end up with more braking pressure for your pedal effort. Its not a bad thing. The actual MC is the same size as the stocker, but if yours is original like mine was, its probably not doing quite as well as it could be.
            Last edited by gadget73; 03-17-2014, 12:23 AM.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment

              #21
              Originally posted by Lincolnmania View Post
              i'm running duralsast cmax ceramic pads.......they rock!
              +1 no complaints with these

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

              Comment

                #22
                The Wilwood proportioning valve 260-8410 adjustment range is 100-1000 PSI GIVING a maxium reduction of 57% in line pressure according to their tech manual.
                FOund something new the other day not in my wilwood books they have a distribution block with the adjuster built in the bloc. Think its 75.00 or so from Summit. If one cant find a good factory one for a car this might be a good move for if you can find a new oem block its like 275 to 375.00
                Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                Comment

                  #23
                  I've heard Adaptive One pads from NAPA are really good pad for the price !

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