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Cruise control shit and O2 Sensor question

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    #16
    Lol I already am running an H-pipe of a PI bolted to the cats. The cats are the only thing muffling it. Soon I am going to dump it out the sides in front of the rear tires. It will be painted black, possibly with a deep blue flame job (haven't decided on that) and it WILL get tinted.


    BUT HEY! How about that CC? I driving a couple hrs away from home and want it to work! Any last minute checks I can do? I leave friday! C'MON GUYS HELP!

    NO COMMENTS FROM JASON91GM.... fucker... lol
    \'05 Suzuki GSX-R - Daily Driver
    \'87 Ford Crown Vic Country Squire - Sad to see her go
    \'87 Mazda RX-7 - 302 project


    Yeah.... it\'s stock. =)

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      #17
      Check the continuity on the wiring harness to the VSS. I think there is a plug for the whole tranny harness somewhere in the area of the transmission dipstick. Just check that they conduct through the harness from plug to plug.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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        #18
        BUT HEY! How about that CC? I driving a couple hrs away from home and want it to work! Any last minute checks I can do? I leave friday! C'MON GUYS HELP!
        OK... first and foremost check your switches on the steering wheel.

        From what you're describing it sounds like the set/accel button is stuck, or just broken.

        The "Resume", "Set Accel", and "Coast" buttons all use the same wire to input the CC amplifier module mounted next to your ECM. They work by varying the resistance sent to the CC amplifier.

        -The Resume button resistance when pressed is 2,000 ohms
        -The Set Accel button resistance when pressed is 680 ohms
        -The Coast button resistance when pressed is 120 ohms

        The CC amplifier measures the resistance in that one single wire to determine what button is pushed, and depending on what that resistance is it processes that information, and sends input to the CC servo mounted near your brake booster.

        OK... so to test the buttons all you have to do is find the two wire harness that runs inside the column to the CC amplifier. One wire is black which is just a ground, and the other is lt.blue/black. This is the wire that you want to hook up an ohm meter to.

        You can either test the signal at the connector, or at the CC amplifier (or if you're really a glutton for punishment you can check it at the wheel by removing the screws in the back of the steering wheel, and prying up the cover).

        So set the ohm meter on the 2,000 ohm scale
        Connect the ground lead of the meter to a ground
        Connect the test lead to that Lt.blue/black wire from the column

        Without any buttons pressed it should read 1. (or infinite resistance)

        I'll bet that without you pressing any buttons it's going to read around 675-700 ohms indicating a stuck "set/accel" button.

        If this is the case then you've found the problem.
        Fix or replace the button assembly.

        If not.. press the Set Accel button and the ohm meter should chnge from 1. (infinite resistance) to 675-700 ohms.

        I just happened to grab a set of switches off a junker yesterday to keep as a spare for when I find the blue steering wheel I need for my CC conversion.

        Here's a few pics of what I'm talking about:

        1- No buttons pressed, Ohm meter set on 2k scale and reading infinity (1.)


        2-"Set Accel" button pressed, Ohm meter still set on 2k scale reading 683 Ohms (supposed to be approx 680 Ohms)


        3-"Coast" button pressed, Ohm meter still set on 2K scale, reading 127 Ohms (supposed to be approx 120 Ohms)


        4-"Resume" button pressed, Ohm meter set on 20,000 ohm scale, reading 2,210 ohms (supposed to be approx 2000 Ohms). I changed the ohm scale on my meter to 20,000 Ohm scale because it would've topped out the 2,000 Ohm scale indicating infinite resistance


        So.. all of these buttons work!

        I don't know what the exact range or tolerances are for how many Ohms +/- from the 120/680/2000 Ohms that is what's required for the CC amplifier to still function, but I bet they're pretty loose.

        If your buttons check out OK, then I'd suspect that either the actual CC Amplifier ot the servo assembly is defective, and I'd then test the servo.

        (I've got a feeling that it's the button though. They tend to load up with a lot of dirt, and other crap over the years of use)

        Hope this helps!

        -Paul

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          #19
          Pablito, you are my hero.

          Wow.
          1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
          Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

          Comment


            #20
            wow!!! Pablito needs his title changed to reflect his box electrical prowress !!!!
            Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
            'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
            sigpic
            85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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              #21
              I just like knowing how shit works so when it breaks I can fix it.

              Comment


                #22
                Oh yeah, notice ur new title?
                1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

                Comment


                  #23
                  hehe... cool!

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                    #24
                    Wow... Thanks so much for going through all of that to help me out. It's too bad I won't be able to get it done in time for the trip. OH WELL. I'm still gonna check those buttons when I get back though. Thanks a bunch for your help and I'll let you know what happens.
                    \'05 Suzuki GSX-R - Daily Driver
                    \'87 Ford Crown Vic Country Squire - Sad to see her go
                    \'87 Mazda RX-7 - 302 project


                    Yeah.... it\'s stock. =)

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Ok well I tested that wire you said (and also included a pic with this post to make sure it was the right one)

                      With no buttons pushed it says 1. When I push the set/accel button, i got an average of 850. The Coast button was around an average of 250. So these are pretty far off from the original numbers you said they should be. But atleast I know it's not stuck because with no buttons pushed it says 1.

                      [/code][/list]
                      \'05 Suzuki GSX-R - Daily Driver
                      \'87 Ford Crown Vic Country Squire - Sad to see her go
                      \'87 Mazda RX-7 - 302 project


                      Yeah.... it\'s stock. =)

                      Comment

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